Pepper seedlings: how to grow them without picking. How to grow pepper seedlings at home without picking. Preparing soil for pepper seedlings

As we already know, it is a very heat-loving crop and also has a long growing season.

And therefore, in order to get a good harvest, and even as early as possible, it is necessary to grow this crop using seedlings.

Pepper grows well, both, and, but you and I won’t be able to sow it directly into the ground, either in the north or even in the south. So we will master all the intricacies of planting sweet peppers through seedlings.

How to grow pepper seedlings? This is the question we will try to answer in this article. We cannot control the weather outside the window, but we can successfully create the desired microclimate at home.

Placed in cozy pots on a warm, southern windowsill, the peppers grow beautifully and, then transplanted into the garden, turn into strong plants and produce a good harvest.

In addition, growing pepper seedlings has the following advantages. For vegetables grown by seedling method:

The fruiting period increases.
The fruits begin to ripen 2.5-3 weeks earlier.

But before we start sowing seeds, we need to choose the right varieties of peppers that we will grow.

I advise you to pay attention to the following basic parameters:

Duration of summer in your area. If it is short, then choose early and mid-early varieties. If you have enough warm days for 2-2.5 months, then you can plant mid-season peppers. Well, if you are lucky and live in the southern regions, then late varieties will also ripen well.
The shape of the fruit is also important. Peppers with cone-shaped and cylindrical shapes with thick walls are good for salads, those in the shape of “cubes” are great for stuffing, and medium-sized peppers are better suited for pickling.
Color of bell peppers: dark colored ones, for example, sweeter ones.
Bush growth. Tall varieties are usually planted in greenhouses, and low- and medium-growing varieties are usually planted in beds under film covers.

Now, let’s immediately begin to answer the main question - how to grow sweet pepper seedlings.

Step 1. Determine the sowing time

It is necessary to plant pepper seedlings in a timely manner to obtain good planting material.

This is a very important point in growing sweet peppers - determining the correct time for sowing seedlings. After all, if we plant the seeds too early, the plants will outgrow the pots.

The timing of sowing pepper seeds depends on several factors:

Features of the variety. It is better to sow early varieties of peppers 60 days before planting them in the garden, and later varieties - 70-75 days.
Place of future cultivation. Keep in mind that young pepper seedlings should appear in a heated greenhouse at the end of April, in film greenhouses, hotbeds - from mid-May to the end, and seedlings are planted in the open air in the first ten days of June.
Growing seedlings with or without picking. Peppers grown without picking will be ready for planting a week earlier.
Climate conditions in your region.

For many gardeners, the answer is simple - start growing seedlings in early February, but given the short daylight hours, the young peppers in this case need additional lighting.

If desired, you can use LED, phytolamps, turning them on for 12 hours.

But most experienced gardeners plan to sow seeds for seedlings in late February and early March.

If the seeds are sown early, you may encounter some troubles: the plants will set the lower fruits, which leads to the depletion of the peppers. Such seedlings may become sick, will become worse at rooting and delay fruiting.

Pay attention to the quality of the seeds themselves! Many manufacturers over-dry seeds to increase shelf life. This feature is usually written on the packaging.

Step 2. Prepare the seeds

Sweet pepper is a capricious plant; its seeds can quickly lose their viability. To avoid this, they should be well prepared for sowing.

♦ Seed selection. Prepare a saline solution (30 g of table salt per liter of water). Drop the pepper seeds in there and stir well.

After 5-10 minutes, strong, high-quality seeds will appear at the bottom, and weak ones will float. We need healthy seeds - we will wash them well and let them dry, spreading them out on a piece of paper.

♦ Etching. How to grow pepper seedlings and get strong seedlings? Etching is required.

This method will disinfect the seeds and give them the first hardening against diseases.

A weak solution of manganese will help us (a gram of potassium permanganate per liter of water). Let's keep the seeds there for 15-20 minutes, rinse and dry.

♦ Processing. In order for our peppers to grow strong, the seeds need to be treated with microelements 2 days before sowing.

Place the seeds in gauze bags and place them in a solution with microelements (you can use “Ideal” or “Epin”).

We keep the seeds there for about a day, after which we take them out and dry them (no need to rinse).

You can also use folk remedies for processing. Soak the seeds in a solution of ash (2 g of wood ash per liter of water) - leave the mixture for a day. And we keep the bags with our seeds in the solution for 3 hours.

Advice. You can do without soaking the seeds at all. Bubbling (processing seeds in water saturated with oxygen) is considered a very effective method of preparation.

This method dramatically increases the germination of pepper. For bubbling, use a regular aquarium compressor. Seeds should be treated in this way 2 weeks before sowing.

Take a large glass jar, fill the container 2/3 with water (the water should be about +20° C). Lower the compressor there so that its tip is located at the bottom, and turn on the device. As soon as bubbles begin to appear in the water, immerse a bag of seeds in it for a day.

♦ Hardening of seeds. Sweet pepper seedlings must have good immunity.

Hardening will help the pepper to adequately cope with weather troubles and any diseases. Seed hardening is carried out immediately before sowing.

Soak the planting material in slightly warmed water, wait for the seeds to swell and immediately place them in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. Keep them there for a day. Then immediately start sowing.

Step 3. Getting ready for sowing

Our pepper does not tolerate picking well, so it is better not to plant seeds in a large container. Individual cups of 100 ml volume would be ideal.

As the pepper grows, we will simply “transfer” it into larger containers.

♦ Soil for seedlings. The soil for our seeds must be nourished and insulated.

To warm up the soil, first pour hot water into containers with soil, and stretch the film over it (evaporation will collect there).

Soil for sweet peppers can be in several variations:

Ready soil. There are special, already prepared mixtures for growing pepper seedlings on sale. This is the most reliable option for sowing. Such land has already been cultivated and protected from diseases and pests.
Self-prepared soil. To do this, mix a bucket of seedling soil with peat (4 parts), turf soil (2 parts), old sawdust (1 part), humus (1 part), river sand (0.5 l) and wood ash (2-3 tbsp. l.).
Coconut substrate. It can also be found in stores; this substrate is also excellent for growing young peppers.
Earth with hydrogel. Adding hydrogel to the soil is an excellent way to maintain soil moisture. But you should add gel balls that have already swollen in water. If you put dry granules in the soil, when they swell, the balls will begin to displace the soil from the pots.
Peat tablets. One of the most convenient options for growing seedlings. Subsequently, the plants (when picking or transplanting) are simply transferred along with the tablet to other, larger containers.

Advice on how to grow pepper seedlings. In order for the pepper to better adapt to its permanent place in the garden, add a little soil from the area where you plan to plant the plant to the soil. Don’t forget to treat it with potassium permanganate or steam it in the oven for 30-40 minutes.

Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the cups; small pieces of polystyrene foam, broken pieces of red brick or expanded clay can be used as drainage.

It is better to take opaque cups themselves - the sun negatively affects the healthy formation of the root system.

♦ Choose a place. Bell peppers really don’t like the cold; they need direct rays of the sun.

The ideal place for seedlings will be southern window sills, always flooded with light. On very warm days, seedlings can be placed on insulated balconies/loggias (place insulated material under the cups with seedlings).

Step 4. Sowing seeds

♦ Sowing pepper seedlings. Fill the cups ¾ full with soil mixture, lightly compacting the soil with your hand.

Then we water the soil a little and make grooves 1 cm deep. In each glass we put two pepper seeds at a distance of about 2-3 cm from each other, sprinkling them with soil (it will be convenient to use a toothpick).

Cover the cups with seeds with polyethylene and place them on the windowsill.

Instead of film, you can use a glass coating on top of the cups. This method will provide our plants with an optimal microclimate, which is very important for the healthy growth of seedlings. To protect sweet pepper seeds as much as possible from possible drafts, seedlings can be equipped with mini-greenhouses - install thick, reliable wire along the edges of the boxes and stretch plastic film over it, completely covering the soil with the seeds.

Experienced gardeners advise placing pots with seedlings at a distance from each other. It has been noticed that bell peppers do not like to touch their leaves and immediately begin to stretch out. The neighbors are bothering him!

Step 5. Proper care of crops

It is very important to maintain the correct growing conditions for pepper seedlings. Once we have planted the seeds, they should be kept until the first shoots appear at a temperature range from +25° C to +27° C.

The first sprouts may appear after 7-15 days (depending on the type of vegetable). Spray the soil in the boxes with water from a spray bottle every two days.

Advice. As soon as the pepper makes itself known with its first shoots, we remove the film covering. At this time, you need to provide the plant with additional illumination with phytolamps - this will accelerate the growth of seedlings and strengthen them.

Lack of light provokes elongation and deformation of seedlings. In this case, adult peppers may suddenly stop growing, their roots begin to rot and die.

The optimal daylight hours for sweet peppers are 9-10 hours. We will light the pepper during the day (from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.).

♦ Temperature conditions. An important factor in obtaining healthy seedlings is temperature. The best daytime temperature for seedlings is +23°-25°C, night temperature +16°-18°C.

If the temperature drops below +12° C at night, the plants will begin to lose leaves and may die.

♦ Watering. Young seedlings should be watered only with warm water, preferably in the morning. Water the peppers not often, but quite generously - watch the condition of the soil!

After watering, do not forget to loosen the soil. For water, use rain or melt water. If you take regular one from the tap, be sure to let it settle beforehand.

Advice on how to grow pepper seedlings. Loosen the soil more often - it is vital for pepper roots to receive oxygen. The roots of this plant are the most “sick” place. They should absolutely not be damaged - deformation leads to inhibition of growth and the cessation of further fruiting.

♦ Hardening. Already strong seedlings (10-12 days before planting in the garden) should be hardened off - taken outside for a short time or windows opened.

For hardening, it will be useful to spray the seedlings with herbal infusion (for the infusion you can use garlic, onions, pine needles, marigolds or calendula flowers).

Hardened seedlings will become resistant to pests.

Important! If you have sprayed the seedlings, you should not take them outside or into the sun with wet leaves! Droplets of water on the leaves can cause burns.

♦ Feeding. How to grow healthy pepper seedlings? Feed the young vegetables! During the entire period of growing seedlings, peppers need to be fed 2 times:

When 3-4 true leaves appear.
When growing 5-6 true leaves.

It would be ideal to add a solution of mullein (to 10 parts of water, 1 part of manure) or dry bird droppings (it must be filled with hot water at +80°-90° C, based on 20 parts of water per part of the droppings, it should be infused for about 2 hours).

In order for the fruits of the pepper to become large and juicy, it is useful for the seedlings to carry out foliar feeding by spraying the young plant with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers.

♦ To dive or not? Although many gardeners do not recommend picking peppers (when transplanted, seedlings are reluctant to take root in a new place), many successfully grow seedlings using picking.

Picking. Don’t miss the moment when it’s time to plant grown peppers (ideal time for planting: 15-20 days after germination, when the sprouts have 2 leaves). During the picking process, you should not pinch the main root of the plant. Picking is recommended if sweet pepper seeds are sown in particularly nutritious soil with a high nitrogen content. After picking, the young seedlings find themselves in conditions close to garden conditions.
No diving. This method is simpler and safer. The grown plants are carefully transferred with a lump of earth into larger containers. In this case, the root system is not damaged and the pepper has a greater chance of growing into a healthy crop.

Problems and troubles

When growing pepper seedlings, any gardener may encounter problems. There are not as many troubles for young seedlings as for adult plants, but they can be:

♦ Seedlings have sharply slowed down in growth. This can happen in peppers after diving, when the roots were accidentally damaged during transplantation. Therefore, if you are a beginner gardener, try to do without picking seedlings.

Sometimes peppers can slow down their growth if there is not enough fertilizer. Its “hunger” is indicated by the light green color of the leaves, paler in comparison with other seedlings. Don't forget to feed your pets!

♦ Black leg. How to grow pepper seedlings without disease. Pepper loves moisture and watering, but in no case should you water it too actively and diligently.

Excess water in the soil can lead to the appearance of a dangerous seedling disease - black leg. Soil initially contaminated with fungal spores and not previously disinfected can also lead to infection.

When the disease occurs, the root collar of the plant becomes soft, the pepper withers, thins and “lies on its side.” It can be pulled out of the ground very easily, as the diseased roots die and become thinner.

The causative agents of the disease are pathogenic fungi, which are activated when the soil is too wet and highly acidified.

Densely planted peppers may also suffer from the disease.

To prevent the disease, pour calcined sand onto the surface of the soil and do not allow the soil to become waterlogged!

Carry out proper care for pepper seedlings by following these tips:

Water the seedlings very carefully, trying not to get on the stems. It is better to water the tiniest sprouts from a pipette between the rows.
Do not keep seedlings under cover for a long time! Ventilate them more often and make sure that water does not accumulate on the ground and that there is no dampness around the stems. You can even blow on the plants periodically to prevent air stagnation.
Avoid cold window sills! The frozen soil dries out very slowly, and this is what fungal spores need to become active.
Do not thicken the crops! Cold air accumulates in the “thicket” of seedlings - a real paradise for disease.
Do not expose your pets to sudden changes in temperature - their immunity may suffer and decrease.

Qualities of "adult" seedlings

Knowing how to grow pepper seedlings, what competent agrotechnical measures are necessary, and taking care of our young pets, we will be able to grow strong seedlings that will successfully turn into adult, healthy plants.

And for successful transplantation into the garden, they must meet the following characteristics:

The seedlings are 60-80 days old.
The height of young peppers should reach 17-20 cm.
Healthy plants must have 7-10 well-developed leaves.
They may have small buds and a strong stem 3-4 mm thick at the roots.

Our seedlings will be ready to move to their permanent place of residence when the soil in the garden warms up to +14°-16° C (in the root layers this is a depth of 10-15 cm).

And when there is no longer a threat of sudden frosts (as a rule, this period occurs at the end of May-beginning and mid-June).

Before planting, young seedlings need to be well watered to reduce possible damage to the roots.

We learned about the traditional method of growing sweet pepper seedlings.

But I want to invite you to watch a few videos by Yulia Minyaeva about another method of growing seedlings - “in a snail”. I really liked it. I will try to plant some of the seedlings using this method.

See you soon, dear readers, and good luck in growing strong and healthy seedlings!

Every gardener faces the problem of a significant slowdown in the growth of pepper seedlings after planting them in separate pots.

This is explained by the fact that the roots of sweet peppers are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical stress.

To avoid such moments, try growing peppers without picking.

Seeds are sown from late February to mid-March. The seeds can first be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulant; you can simply hold them in warm water for several hours.

To plant seeds, it is better to use light peat soil, sold in stores, mixing it with garden soil approximately 1:1.

After spilling the soil with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, place 1-2 seeds in bags and sprinkle a 1 cm layer of soil on top. Carefully cover the box with film and place it in a warm place (25-27 degrees) for seed germination.

Be sure to check the condition of the crops daily to prevent the soil from drying out. Usually after about 5-10 days shoots appear. The box should be immediately moved to a bright, warm place, but the film should not be removed immediately. When the seedlings are leveled, you can slightly open the edge of the film so that excess condensation does not accumulate; later it is completely removed.

Growing seedlings are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate every 10 days. The air temperature is desirable at least 23 degrees during the day and 16-18 at night.

And if you use larger glasses, then the small seedlings will sour the excess soil, undeveloped by the roots. When using bags, it turns out easier: as the roots grow, the volume of the “dishes” easily increases without unnecessary injuries for the kids.

With this method of growing, our whims grow uniformly and non-stop and are not exposed to any stress until they are planted in the greenhouse. But even then, their roots will not be damaged, because the peppers are easy to remove from the bags and, together with a lump of soil, are transferred to the prepared holes.

Thanks to this growing technique, strong, stocky seedlings are obtained with a well-developed root system and buds. Try this method - you won't regret it.

Sweet peppers belong to the same botanical family as potatoes and tomatoes, the nightshade family. It is grown for its large fruits, which are usually picked while still green, although they turn red over time.

Features of growing pepper

For normal growth, sweet peppers require approximately the same conditions as tomatoes, although they require higher temperatures and air humidity. This crop is best grown in a greenhouse. However, in areas with a mild climate, pepper grows well in open ground conditions in areas protected from the wind. In less favorable conditions, film tunnels or greenhouses with high side walls are used. This is exactly what the “HARVEST” greenhouse and the “HARVEST” greenhouse are.

Soil conditions. Peppers are grown in an open area with fairly fertile, well-drained soil. Sunny places protected from the wind are best suited for planting. In autumn, the soil is generously fertilized with rotted manure or compost. The soil on the site must have high moisture-holding capacity. In greenhouses, peppers are grown on soil, in pots or film bags with a nutrient mixture.

When growing peppers in open ground, before planting seedlings on the site, apply basic complete mineral fertilizer in the amount of 30-70 g per 1 m2. During the growing season, especially with the beginning of fruit formation, the plants are fed. When growing peppers in containers, plants begin to be fed at a younger age.

Watering must be done very carefully. Plant care. Sweet pepper plants require high temperatures for normal growth. But even in favorable conditions, growing seedlings lasts at least 10-12 weeks. During seed germination, maintain a temperature of 21 C; after emergence of seedlings it is reduced to 18 C.

The seeds are sown on a tray or in a box with high edges, filled with compost; They are also sprinkled with a thin layer of compost on top. The plants are watered and covered with glass and newspaper. The glass is turned over daily so that drops of condensation do not fall on the seedlings.

When the seedlings become large enough, they pick. Seedlings are planted.

Planting in a greenhouse

March and later. Seeds are sown sparsely on moistened compost. They are sprinkled with a thin layer of compost on top and covered with a piece of glass and newspaper. The glass is turned over daily. During seed germination, the temperature is maintained at 21°C.

When the seedlings become large enough, they are planted in peat pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm. The seedlings are periodically fed.

10-12 weeks after sowing, the seedlings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 20-25 cm and placed in the greenhouse at a distance of 45 cm from each other. Peppers continue to be regularly watered and fed with fertilizers.

One at a time in peat or plastic pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm with a compost-based nutrient mixture. Seedlings are fed with liquid fertilizers. If desired, you can use ready-made seedlings.

Planting in a greenhouse. Sweet peppers are planted in heated greenhouses (temperature 15-18°C) already in March; in unheated greenhouses, planting is carried out no earlier than mid-April. Three plants are planted in a standard plastic bag with a nutrient mixture. When planting peppers in 20-25 cm pots, they are placed at a distance of 45 cm from one another.

Planting in open ground.

In mid-May, seedlings are planted according to a 45x45 cm pattern, after which simple shelters are installed on the site.

Formation of plants. Sweet pepper is a bush plant. When the height of the plants reaches 15 cm, their apical growth points are removed. This promotes increased branching. If necessary, plants are tied to a trellis or bamboo poles. Peppers grown in unheated greenhouses and in open ground are usually short, up to 60 cm high. Much larger plants grow in heated greenhouses

In open ground, ripening occurs at the end of August - September. The fruits are removed as needed. If you leave the green fruits on the plants for another two to three weeks under greenhouse conditions, they will turn red.

Pests and diseases

For aphids and spider mites, plants are sprayed with quickly decomposing insecticides, such as karbofos or keltan.

There are not many diseases in sweet peppers. If there is a lack of moisture on the surface of the fruit, some areas become gray-brown in color and sink inward. They then soften and may become covered with gray mold (Botrytis cinerea). Therefore, it is important to water peppers promptly and well, especially if the plants are grown in containers - bags or pots.

When the plants reach a height of 15 cm, their apical growth points are removed, leaving 3-4 side shoots. If necessary, plants are grown on supports.

Throughout the entire growing season, when aphids or spider mites appear on plants, they are treated with quickly decomposing insecticides, such as karbofos.

Growing pepper seedlings in a greenhouse

Pepper cannot be grown using the seedless method, because its seeds take a very long time to germinate - about two weeks. Peppers are slow growing in the initial growth stage, so the seeds are sown quite early. The age of seedlings when transplanted into the ground should be 60-70 days from the date of planting.

Seeds are planted in trays with a distance of 1-2cm between them. Before the seeds germinate, the tray is covered with glass to prevent the soil from drying out.

When the sprouts have formed 2-3 true leaves, they are picked. This happens after about a month.

Dive peppers into cups with a diameter of 6-7 cm. It is advisable to plant two plants in one cup. Peppers grow well together.

It is important that the pepper does not overgrow. It should be planted when flower buds begin to form, the plants are 25 - 30 cm high and have 8-12 leaves. Peppers can be planted earlier if the weather permits. Pepper is planted into the soil at the same level at which it grew in the cup; this differs from most crops, which are planted deeper.

Growing pepper seedlings

Starting from the end of February, the epic of growing indoor and garden varieties of pepper begins. In the Urals, Siberia and central Russia, pepper cannot be grown using the seedless method, because, firstly, its seeds germinate for a very long time - 10-15 days, secondly, pepper grows slowly in the initial stage and, finally, the age of the seedlings when transplanted into the ground should be 60–75 days from the date of planting.

Seeds are sown in a seedling container at a distance of 1–2 cm between them. Before the seeds germinate, the tray is covered with glass to prevent the soil from drying out.

When the sprouts have formed 2-3 true leaves, they are picked. This happens after about a month.

Dive peppers into cups with a diameter of 6–7 cm. It is advisable to plant two plants in one cup. Peppers grow well together.

It is important that the pepper does not overgrow. It should be planted when flower buds begin to form, the plants are 25 – 30 cm tall and have 8–12 leaves. Peppers can be planted earlier if the weather permits. Pepper is planted into the soil at the same level at which it grew in the cup; this differs from most crops, which are planted deeper.

Pepper seedlings are very capricious: improper nutrition of the seedlings - offended peppers will respond to this with poor health, so that the seedlings do not “sit down”, fertilizing with ammonium nitrate is necessary already in the phase of 1-2 true leaves.

Two weeks before planting in the ground, fertilizing with fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is necessary. Properly grown seedlings at the age of 60 days have 12–15 true, intensely green leaves, a dense stem, and reach a height of 20–30 cm.

A lot has been written about growing pepper seedlings.. We bring to your attention material on the article “Growing peppers. Technology of Alex Kazansky”, in which you will find a lot of new and useful things:

Let's start with a description of the pre-sowing preparation and seedling period.

On February 24, I began pre-sowing preparations. Disinfection of seeds - 20 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Bubbling - 2 hours. 12 hours of soaking - snow water with a few drops of epin (according to the instructions). All these operations were carried out once and immediately with all the examined varieties and hybrids. For this I have a simple device:

30 gauze squares measuring 10x10cm;

30 small pieces of colored wire 30cm long. Each wire at one end has a cardboard or plastic tag with a specific number, under which the observed person is listed.

Next, seeds of a certain variety or hybrid are taken and placed on a gauze square. A bag is made from a gauze square and twisted with the free end of the wire with the required number. Having completed the operation with all those observed, you can simultaneously begin the above-described actions (disinfection, bubbling, soaking).

It should be noted that the described device, and those that will be described further, are made once and last for many years.

On February 25, I planted them in small containers. Each container contained five rows of different names. And here, in order not to get confused, I resorted to a little trick.

In a store or market you can easily buy a small roll of self-adhesive price tags, which you have often seen stuck with prices in stores and stalls.

So, by sticking this price tag on the side of the container and putting down the number of what we are observing, we fully track and do not get lost in our 30 varieties.

Anecdote: I'm sitting on the toilet. Suddenly the phone rings. My 6.5 year old child picks up the phone and politely says: “Mom can’t come over now. What is she doing? I don’t know.” And he yells loudly to the whole house: “Mom, are you peeing or pooping?!”

Having placed the containers in a plastic bag and placed them near the central heating radiator (but not on it), I am waiting for friendly shoots.

On the fourth day, March 1, I was pleasantly surprised to see the first shoots. On March 2, 30% of the total number of seeds planted had already sprouted, and on March 3 - 60%. Thus, in practice, I was convinced of the positive aspects of bubbling and soaking compared to the previous year, 2017. That year I only carried out disarming and the first shoots were noticed after only ten days.

After 40-50% of the seedlings appear, I place the container on the south-facing windowsill so that the seedlings receive more light and the temperature regime is maintained. And I learned a little lesson this year! I planted up to 6 different varieties in one container. And each variety has at least a small difference in germination time. And the timing is especially influenced by the seed company and what pre-sowing operations were carried out on the seeds. And, of course, what is the lifespan of your or purchased seeds?

Hence the rule! Read what is written on the seed label, look at the date, and most importantly, plant each variety in a separate container. Then you will get simultaneous shoots of one variety in one container and you won’t have to stretch out the firstborns of one variety while waiting for the appearance of another.

It has been observed in practice that it is impossible to obtain super-seedlings with a lack of light and unacceptable temperature conditions (25-28′C during the day, 12-15′C at night). If not observed, the tendency will be towards pulling out and producing frail and unproductive seedlings.

When the first true leaf appears, I pick it out into separate 200 ml. cups. I carry out the picking, holding it by the cotyledon leaves, and not by the stem, so as not to damage the plant. I shorten the root by 1/3 to stimulate the growth of lateral roots and subsequently obtain a fibrous root system.

I make sure that the root fits into the nest being placed without bends or twists, especially upwards. This year, the first selection of powerful seedlings was carried out on March 9 and the second selection of the rest on March 16.

I am revealing the next secret of obtaining elite seedlings, this is the substrate, i.e. the mechanical composition of the soil in which the seedlings are located. The substrate should be loose, light and breathable, even with a minimal content of nutrients. In such a substrate, the root system will grow freely and receive a sufficient amount of oxygen.

I have been using it for three years now and am very pleased with the compressed peat manure soil. Firstly, its composition suits me very much, secondly, when pressed it takes up little space and thirdly, one briquette produces 2 buckets of excellent soil.

As for nutrition, until the stage of the first cotyledon leaves, the nutrition contained in the seed is quite sufficient, and then, with each watering of the seedlings, it is necessary to add a small dose of nutrition. Such constant application will be an excellent help in obtaining adequate nutrition and powerful development of your plant.

For feeding, you can use the following composition: for 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of single superphosphate (or 1 spoon of double superphosphate), 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 1 teaspoon of urea. Or a ready-made complex fertilizer, well proven and tested by you (or those you trust) in half the dose according to the instructions. The water used is preferably snow water or from the tap, but must be left standing for at least a day.

By mid-April, the root system already occupies the entire volume of the allotted 200 ml. a glass and the plant itself is a pleasure to look at; one is already pleased with its power and its juicy green color. On April 21, I carry out the last pick in a container of at least 1 liter.

The plant can be freely removed from the cup with a lump of substrate densely entwined with roots if you turn it over and, if necessary, tap the cup on the edge of a hard surface. Having moved into a new container and without damaging the root system, the plant, without stopping growth and without enduring stress, continues to vegetate more than successfully and fill the allocated new container with roots.

During the last pick, or rather at the beginning of April, I try to assign my charges to a permanent place, before landing in the ground - on an insulated balcony. On the balcony the air is fresh and there is enough light (south side) and it is much easier to maintain the temperature regime by opening the windows when it is hot and turning on the heater when it is significantly colder.

At the beginning of May the first color begins to appear. Without hesitation and without regret, I pick these flowers. Thus, the plant does not spend its resources on nursing the first few fruits, but continues to actively grow.

I repeat this operation constantly and stop only a week before landing at a permanent place. At the same time, in early May, if necessary and depending on the variety, I pinch the main stem, which activates the growth of lateral shoots, on which many ripening fruits are formed.

By the time of planting in a permanent place (this year - May 26), the plants amaze with their beauty, power and container completely filled with the root system. Plants are planted in holes without damaging the root system and without being delayed in growth using the above method.

Placed on pre-prepared beds well filled with organic matter, they are covered with film or non-woven material (tunnel cover). It should be noted that the length of the film or material only reaches the outer arcs, hanging down by 10-15 cm.

Those 10-15 centimeters hanging down and individual end pieces of film (pockets) are attached to the outer arcs with wooden clothespins, allowing the ends to be freely and quickly opened or closed if necessary.

When fruiting, peppers love warmth and feel comfortable and make you happy if they are surrounded by warmth of 28 degrees during the day and at night not lower than 18C. Thus, if in the summer you have someone living next to your pets, then they can easily adhere to the preferred regime by varying the end pockets.

And so, to obtain powerful elite seedlings, and subsequently a guaranteed abundant harvest, you need: a light, breathable substrate; feeding in small doses; light and temperature conditions; double gentle transplantation into free containers (first into a 200 mg cup, and then into liter containers); beds well filled with organic matter and acceptable temperature conditions.

If you remember from my last year’s saying about peppers, I planted them on February 24, and the seedlings were already ready for planting in a permanent place in the garden in early May. This year, 2002, I decided to move the landing date to the beginning of March, on the first weekend. The timing is optimal and will allow you to have excellent seedlings by the second half of May.

Another attractive thing about sowing during this period is that the seedlings will receive more sun at an early age and it’s just a stone’s throw until April, when they will move to an insulated balcony. I am also a supporter of later sowing because over the past years of pepper farming, I have learned to control the growth of seedlings: increase the night temperature by a couple of degrees, keep the substrate moist and it grows by leaps and bounds. I already spoke earlier about the fact that the substrate should be breathable and watering should be supplied with small doses of nutrition.

As part of the pre-sowing preparation, I used decontamination for 20 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, followed by thorough rinsing under running water. Then he soaked for 12 hours in a new, biological preparation - Zircon R. In terms of characteristics, this drug is not inferior to the famous Epin R, and in many reviews it surpasses it.

Facilitating devices for simultaneous work with several varieties in the form of tags, gauze bags, remained the same from last year and made the work much easier. I took into account last year’s shortcoming (I sowed different varieties in one container) and already this year, each variety or hybrid sat in its own container.”

Sweet pepper has firmly entered the list of garden crops grown in our garden plots. It is very rich in vitamins, mineral substances, contains sugars and proteins, essential and fatty oils, oxalic, malic, citric acids. Just one pepper fruit contains the daily requirement of vitamin P. In terms of vitamin C content, pepper is a real favorite, with the largest amount contained in perfectly ripened fruits. By the way, sweet pepper ketchup contains 16 times more vitamin C than tomato ketchup.

Despite belonging to the nightshade family, which is very susceptible to late blight, pepper avoids this pest. Caring for it during the growing season is very simple, even novice vegetable growers can do it. Apparently, this explains its high popularity among gardeners, if we also take into account its unique nutritional value for the body.

But every gardener is faced with such a problem as a significant slowdown in the growth of pepper seedlings after picking into separate pots. This is explained by the fact that the roots of sweet peppers are very sensitive to the smallest mechanical influences. To avoid similar situations, try to grow peppers without picking.

Seeds are sown from late February to mid-March. The seeds can be soaked in advance in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth catalyst; you can simply keep them in warm water for several hours. To plant seeds, it is better to use light peat soil, sold in stores, mixing it with garden soil approximately 1:1.

Fill plastic bags of sour cream or mayonnaise with this soil, slightly cutting off the bottom corner to drain excess water when watering. The bags then need to be folded in half lengthwise, so you get such narrow “cups”. Fill them with soil and place them in a box or box close to each other. After spilling the soil with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, place 1-2 seeds in bags and sprinkle a 1 cm layer of soil on top. Carefully cover the box with film and place it in a warm place (25-27 degrees) for seed germination.

Be sure to inspect the condition of the crops once a day so that the soil does not dry out. Typically, sprouts appear after about 5 to 10 days. The box must be immediately moved to a bright, warm place, but the film must not be removed immediately. When the seedlings are leveled, you can slightly open the edge of the film so that excess condensation does not accumulate; later it is completely removed.

For watering seedlings, use only warm, settled water. Pepper tolerates a lack of water very painfully, but it also cannot tolerate flooding of the root system. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is always evenly moistened. Growing seedlings are fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate every 10 days. The desired air temperature is more than 23 degrees during the day and 16-18 at night.

When the peppers grow and the roots fill the entire space, carefully unwrap the bags and fill them with rich soil. Naturally, instead of bags for growing peppers, you can simply use separate plastic cups. But they are small and over time they will become too crowded for the root system, which will slow down the growth of seedlings. And if you use larger glasses, then the small seedlings will sour the excess soil, undeveloped by the roots. It’s easier when using bags: as the roots grow, the volume of the “dishes” simply increases without unnecessary injury to children.

With this method of growing, our whims grow moderately non-stop and are not exposed to any stress right before they are planted in the greenhouse. But even then, their roots will not be damaged, since the peppers can simply be taken out of the bags and, together with a lump of earth, transferred into the prepared holes. Thanks to this growing method, strong, stocky seedlings with a well-developed root system and buds emerge. Try this method - you won't regret it.

Sweet peppers belong to the same botanical family as potatoes and tomatoes, the nightshade family. It is grown for its large fruits, which are usually harvested while still greenish, although they turn purple over time.

Features of growing pepper

For normal growth, sweet peppers require approximately the same conditions as tomatoes, although they require higher temperatures and air humidity. This crop is best grown in a greenhouse. But in areas with a mild climate, pepper grows well in open ground in areas protected from the wind. In the least suitable conditions, film tunnels are used or greenhouses with the highest side walls.

Soil conditions. Peppers are grown in an open area with fairly rich, well-drained soil. Sunny places protected from the wind are ideal for planting. In autumn, the soil is generously fertilized with rotted manure or compost. The soil on the site must have the highest moisture-holding capacity. In greenhouses, peppers are grown on soil, in pots or film bags with a nutritious consistency.

When growing peppers in open ground, before planting seedlings, basic complete mineral fertilizer is applied to the site in an amount of 30-70 g per 1 m2. During the growing season, especially with the beginning of fruit formation, the plants are fed. When growing peppers in containers, the plants begin to be fed at a younger age. Watering must be done very carefully. Plant care. Sweet pepper plants require high temperatures to grow normally. But even under suitable conditions, growing seedlings lasts more than 10-12 weeks. During seed germination, maintain a temperature of 21 C; after germination, it is lowered to 18 C. The seeds are sown on a tray or in a box with high edges, filled with compost; They are also sprinkled with a thin layer of compost on top. The plants are watered and covered with glass and newspaper. The glass is turned over once a day so that drops of condensation do not fall on the sprouts.

When the seedlings become quite large, they pick. Seedlings are planted

Planting peppers in a greenhouse

March and later. The seeds are sown sparsely on moistened compost. They are sprinkled with a thin layer of compost on top and covered with a piece of glass and newspaper. The glass is turned over once a day. During seed germination, the temperature is maintained at 21°C.

When the seedlings become quite large, they are planted in peat pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm. The seedlings are fed from time to time.

One at a time in peat or plastic pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm with a nutritious consistency based on compost. The seedlings are fed with watery fertilizers. If desired, you can use ready-made seedlings.

Planting in a greenhouse. Sweet peppers are planted in heated greenhouses (temperature 15-18°C) already in March; in unheated greenhouses, planting is carried out no earlier than mid-April. Three plants are planted in a standard plastic bag with a nutrient consistency. When planting peppers in 20-25 cm pots, they are placed at a distance of 45 cm from one another.

Planting in open ground. In the middle of May, seedlings are planted according to a 45x45 cm pattern, after which simple shelters are installed on the site.

Formation of plants. Sweet pepper is a bush plant. When the height of the plants reaches 15 cm, their apical growth points are removed. This promotes increased branching. If necessary, plants are tied to a trellis or beech poles. Peppers grown in unheated greenhouses and in open ground are usually short, up to 60 cm high. Significantly larger plants grow in heated greenhouses

In open ground, ripening occurs at the end of August - September. The fruits are removed if necessary. If, under greenhouse conditions, you leave the greenish fruits on the plants for another two to three weeks, they will acquire a reddish color.

Pests and diseases of pepper

For aphids and spider mites, plants are sprayed with rapidly decomposing insecticides, for example karbofos or keltan.

There are not many diseases in sweet peppers. If there is a lack of water on the surface of the fruit, some areas become gray-brown in color and sink inward. Then they soften and may become covered with grayish rottenness (Botrytis cinerea). Therefore, it is important to water peppers on time and well, especially if the plants are grown in containers - bags or pots.

When the plants reach a height of 15 cm, their apical growth points are removed, leaving 3-4 side shoots. If necessary, plants are grown on supports.

Throughout the entire growing season, when aphids or spider mites appear on plants, they are treated with quickly decomposing insecticides, for example karbofos.

Growing pepper seedlings in a greenhouse

It is impossible to grow pepper without seedlings, since its seeds take a very long time to germinate - about 2 weeks. Pepper grows slowly in the initial growth stage, so the seeds are sown quite early. The age of seedlings when transplanted into the ground should be 60-70 days from the date of planting.
The seeds are planted in trays with a distance of 1-2cm between them. Before the seeds sprout, cover the tray with glass so that the soil does not dry out.
When the sprouts have formed 2-3 real leaves, they are picked. This happens in about a month.
Dive peppers into cups with a diameter of 6-7 cm. It is better to plant two plants in one cup. Peppers grow well together.

It is important that the pepper does not overgrow. It must be planted when flower buds begin to form, the plants are 25 - 30 cm high and have 8-12 leaves. You can plant peppers earlier if the weather permits. Pepper is planted into the soil at the same level at which it grew in the cup; this differs from most crops, which are planted deeper.

Starting from the end of February, the epic of growing indoor and garden varieties of pepper begins. In the Urals, Siberia and central Russia, it is impossible to grow pepper without seedlings, since, firstly, its seeds germinate for a very long time - 10-15 days, and secondly, pepper grows slowly in the initial stage and at the end After all, the age of seedlings when transplanted into the ground should be 60–75 days from the date of planting.

The seeds are sown in a seedling container at a distance of 1–2 cm between them. Before the seeds germinate, the tray is covered with glass to prevent the soil from drying out.
When the sprouts have formed 2-3 real leaves, they are picked. This happens in about a month.
Dive peppers into cups 6–7 cm in diameter. It is better to plant two plants in one cup. Peppers grow well together.
It is important that the pepper does not overgrow. It should be planted when flower buds begin to form, the plants are 25 – 30 cm tall and have 8 – 12 leaves. You can plant peppers earlier if the weather permits. Pepper is planted into the soil at the same level at which it grew in the cup; this differs from most crops, which are planted deeper. Pepper seedlings are very capricious: improper nutrition of the seedlings - offended peppers will respond to this with poor health, so that the seedlings do not “settle down”, they need to be fertilized with ammonium nitrate already in the phase of 1-2 real leaves. Two weeks before planting in the ground, fertilizing with fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is needed. Properly grown seedlings at the age of 60 days have 12–15 real actively greenish leaves, a dense trunk, and reach a height of 20–30 cm.
A lot has been written about growing pepper seedlings. I bring to your attention the material on the article “Growing peppers. Development by Alex Kazansky", in which you will find a lot of new and useful things:

“2001. Let's start with a description of the pre-sowing preparation and seedling period.

On February 24, I began pre-sowing preparations. Disinfection of seeds - 20 minutes in a black solution of potassium permanganate. Bubbling - 2 hours. 12 hours of soaking - snow water with a few drops of epin (according to the instructions). All these operations were carried out once and immediately with all the examined varieties and hybrids. For this I have a simple device:
30 gauze squares measuring 10x10cm;
30 small pieces of colored wire 30cm long. Each wire at one end has a cardboard or plastic tag with a specific number, under which the observed one is considered.
Next, seeds of a certain variety or hybrid are taken and placed on a gauze square. A bag is made from a gauze square and twisted with the free end of the wire with the desired number. Having completed the operation with all those observed, you can immediately begin the above actions (disinfection, bubbling, soaking).

It should be seen that the described device, and those that will be described further, are made once and last for many years.

On February 25, I planted them in small containers. Each container contained 5 rows of different names. And here, in order not to get confused, I resorted to a little trick.

In a store or at the market, you can easily buy a small roll of self-adhesive price tags, which you have often seen stuck with prices in stores and stalls.
So, by sticking this price tag on the side of the container and putting down the number of what we are observing, we are 100% tracking and do not get lost in our 30 varieties.

Having placed the containers in a plastic bag and placed them near the central heating radiator (but not on it), I am waiting for friendly shoots.

On the 4th day, March 1st, I was pleasantly surprised to see the first shoots. On March 2, 30% of the total number of seeds planted had already sprouted, and on March 3 - 60%. So, in practice, I have verified the positive aspects of bubbling and soaking compared to the past year, 2000. That year I only carried out decontamination and the first shoots were seen after only 10 days.

After 40-50% of seedlings have emerged, I place the container on the south-facing windowsill so that the seedlings receive more light and the temperature regime is maintained. And this year I learned a little lesson! I planted up to 6 different species in one container. And each variety has at least a small difference in germination time. And in particular, the timing is influenced by the seed company and what pre-sowing operations were carried out on the seeds. And, of course, what is the lifespan of your or received seeds? Hence the rule! Read what is written on the seed label, look at the date, and most importantly, plant each variety in a separate container. It is then that you will receive simultaneous sprouts of the 1st grade in one container and you will not have the firstborns of the 1st grade stretched out waiting for the emergence of another.

It has been seen in practice that it is unrealistic to obtain super-seedlings with a lack of light and an inappropriate temperature regime (25-28′C during the day, 12-15′C at night). If not observed, the tendency will be towards pulling out and producing frail and unproductive seedlings.

When the first real leaf appears, I distribute it into separate 200 ml. cups. I carry out the picking, holding it by the cotyledon leaves, and not by the stem, so as not to destroy the plant. I shorten the root by 1/3 to stimulate the growth of lateral roots and obtain a fibrous root system in the future. I make sure that the root fits into the nest being placed without bends or twists, especially upwards. This year, the first selection of massive seedlings was carried out on March 9 and the second selection of others on March 16.

I am revealing the next secret of obtaining elite seedlings, this is the substrate, i.e. the mechanical composition of the earth in which the seedlings are located. The substrate should be loose, light and breathable, even with the lowest content of nutritional parts. In such a substrate, the root system will grow freely and receive a sufficient amount of oxygen. I have been using it for the 3rd year now and am very pleased with the compacted peat manure soil. Firstly, its composition even suits me very much, secondly, in its compressed state it does not take up enough space, and thirdly, 2 buckets of beautiful soil come out of 1 briquette.

As for nutrition, until the stage of the first cotyledon leaves, the nutrition contained in the seed is completely abundant, and then, with each watering of the seedlings, a small dose of nutrition must be added. Such constant application will be a great help in obtaining real nutrition and massive development of your plant. For feeding, you can use the following composition - 10 liters. water 2 tablespoons of single superphosphate (or 1 spoon of double), 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate and 1 teaspoon of urea. Or a ready-made, all-encompassing, well-proven and tested fertilizer by you (or those you trust) in half the dose according to the instructions. The water used is preferably snow water or from a tap, but must be left standing for more than a day.

By mid-April, the root system already occupies the entire volume of the allotted 200 ml. a glass and the plant itself is not cheap to look at; the first one is already amusing with its power and its rich greenish color. On April 21, I carry out the last pick in a container of more than 1 liter. The plant can be freely removed from the cup with a lump of substrate densely entwined with roots if you turn it over and, if necessary, tap the cup on the edge of a hard surface. Having moved into the new container, and without damaging the root system, the plant, without stopping in growth, and without enduring stress, continues to vegetate more than successfully and fill the allotted new container with roots. During the last pick, or more precisely, the beginning of April, I try to find my charges in a permanent place, before planting in the ground - on an insulated balcony. On the balcony the air is fresh and there is enough light (south side) and it is much easier to maintain the temperature regime by opening the windows when it is hot and turning on the heater when it gets significantly colder.

At the beginning of May the first color begins to appear. Without thinking twice and without regret, I pluck these flowers. Thus, the plant does not spend its resources on nursing the first few fruits, but continues its intensive growth. I repeat this operation all the time and stop only a week before landing in a permanent place. At this time, at the beginning of May, as needed and depending on the variety, I pinch the head stem, which activates the growth of lateral shoots, on which many ripening fruits appear.
By the time of planting in the same place (this year - May 26), the plants amaze with their beauty, power and container that is completely filled with the root system. Plants are planted in holes without damaging the root system and without being delayed in growth using the above method. Placed on beds prepared in advance, well filled with organic matter, they are covered with film or non-woven material (tunnel cover). It should be seen that the length of the film or material reaches only the last arcs, hanging down by 10-15 cm. Those 10-15 cm hanging down and individual end pieces of the film (pockets) are fixed to the last arcs with wooden clothespins, allowing freely and quickly open or close the ends as needed.

When fruiting, peppers love warmth and feel comfortable and make you happy if they are surrounded by heat of 28 degrees during the day, and at night not lower than 18C. So, if in the summer you have someone living next to your pets, then they can easily adhere to the desired regime by varying the end pockets.

And so, to obtain strong elite seedlings, and subsequently a guaranteed abundant harvest, you need: a light, breathable substrate; feeding in small doses; light and temperature conditions; double gentle transplantation into free containers (first into a 200 mg glass, and then into liter containers); well-filled beds with organic matter and acceptable temperature conditions.

If you remember from my last year’s saying about peppers, I planted them on February 24, and the seedlings were already ready for planting in their permanent place in the garden in early May. This year, 2002, I decided to move the planting date to the beginning of March, on the first weekend. The timing is reasonable and will allow you to have beautiful seedlings by the 2nd half of May. Another advantage of sowing during this period is that the seedlings will receive more sun at an early age and it will be a stone's throw until April, when they will move to an insulated balcony. I am also a supporter of later sowing because over the past years of pepper farming, I have learned to control the growth of seedlings: increase the night temperature by a couple of degrees, keep the substrate wet and it will grow by leaps and bounds. And I already said earlier that the substrate should be breathable and watering should be supplied with small doses of nutrition.
As part of the pre-sowing preparation, I used decontamination for 20 minutes in a black solution of potassium permanganate, followed by a thorough rinsing under running water. Then I soaked it for 12 hours in a new, bio-based preparation - Zircon R. In terms of features, this product is not inferior to the well-known Epin R, and in many reviews it is superior to it.

Growing peppers. Pepper planting scheme

Vegetable growing, growing peppers, peppers, pepper seedlings, pepper modifications, pepper predecessors, pepper protection from pests and diseases

The best predecessors of pepper in vegetable crop rotations are cucumber, onion, early cabbage, perennial herbs, but not the Solanaceae family. They are returned to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years, except for EM technologies, in which the soil is healed faster.

Pepper does not tolerate transplantation well, it has weak regeneration of the root system, so seedlings are grown either in pots or in cassettes.

The low air temperature for germination of pepper seeds is 16&19C and ground temperature 14&16C. The best temperature is 18&22C.

Before picking, the sprouts are watered 2 times a week with calcium nitrate (1g/1l of water). The roots grow more actively before fruit formation begins. For more intensive development of the root system of pepper, use the Radifarm catalyst (200-250g/100l of water) with an interval of 10-12 days. In the future, fertilizing will be carried out with all-encompassing fertilizers Master (root), Plantafol (foliar).

By the time of planting, pepper seedlings must be 40-50 days old and have 6-7 real leaves. Before planting, pepper seedlings are hardened off. 3-4 days before planting, fertilize with Previkur (15-20ml/10l of water).

The fundamental condition for growing pepper is sufficient soil moisture, because pepper does not tolerate even short-term drying out and overheating. In order for plants to better tolerate stressful conditions, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding with catalysts, for example, products from the Mars or Megafon series. The Hercules, Denver, and Nikita peppers tolerate unfavorable modification conditions very well.

The pepper planting pattern almost entirely depends on the irrigation method. When growing peppers using drip irrigation, the 90+50x35-45cm or 70+70x35-45cm scheme is more effective. The number of plants per 1 hectare is 40-50 thousand.

It should be kept in mind that when planting pepper seedlings in the ground, the plants are planted in the soil at the level of the upper root. You cannot cover the root neck, as this provokes the development of a dark leg and other diseases. Peppers do not form additional roots like tomatoes.

A good temperature for the growth and development of pepper is between 20&25C. Plants cannot tolerate even the lightest frosts. If there is a danger of their occurrence, the plants are covered with agrofibre. Pepper is very sensitive to the air conditions of the soil, so periodic loosening is necessary.

During the growing season, several feedings are carried out. During the first, 10-15 days after planting pepper seedlings, urea (100 kg/ha) is added to the soil. If there is drip irrigation, then the best means for fertilizing would be Terraflex T, Master, Kristalen, etc. To prevent the development of apical rot, periodic feeding is carried out with Calcinit, Brexil calcium or similar fertilizers containing calcium.

In addition to root feeding, foliar feeding is also carried out with products containing macro- and microelements and growth catalysts.

To protect plants from extreme heat, which disrupts pollination, thermoprotective drugs are used, for example, Megafol.

The main pests of pepper are the Colorado potato beetle, cutworms, aphids, and thrips.

The main diseases of pepper are downy mildew, bacteriosis, anthracnose, rot, verticillium and various viral diseases.

To protect plants from pests and diseases, in addition to chemical pesticides, you can use microbiological preparations: Bitoxibacillin, Actofit (against aphids, Colorado potato beetles, cutworms), Gaupsin (against a complex of pests and diseases), Trichodermin (against a complex of diseases), Mikosan and Fitosporin (for protection from a complex of diseases).

Sweet pepper fruits are harvested in both technical and bio ripeness. The fruits are cut off with the stalk. For the short term, fruits can be stored in 8-10 kg boxes, in perforated plastic bags in refrigerators. Storage temperature 0&2оС, with relative air humidity 90-95%. Under such conditions, fruits can be stored for up to 20-30 days.

Share this post with your friends - How to grow sweet pepper seedlings without picking

Sweet pepper has firmly entered the list of garden crops grown in our garden plots. It is very rich in vitamins, minerals, contains sugars and proteins, essential and fatty oils, oxalic, malic, and citric acids. Just one pepper fruit contains the daily requirement of vitamin P. In terms of vitamin C content, peppers contain the highest amount, and the largest amount is contained in well-ripened fruits. By the way, sweet pepper ketchup contains 16 times more vitamin C than tomato ketchup.

Despite belonging to the nightshade family, which are very susceptible to late blight, pepper avoids this scourge. Caring for it during the growing season is very simple, even novice vegetable growers can do it. Apparently, this explains its high popularity among gardeners, if we also take into account its unique nutritional value for the body.

However, everyone faces such a problem as a significant slowdown in the growth of pepper seedlings after picking into separate pots. This is explained by the fact that the roots of sweet peppers are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical stress. To avoid such moments, try growing peppers without picking.

Seeds are sown from late February to mid-March. The seeds can first be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a growth stimulant; you can simply hold them in warm water for several hours. To plant seeds, it is better to use light peat soil, sold in stores, mixing it with garden soil approximately 1:1.

Fill plastic bags of sour cream or mayonnaise with this soil, slightly cutting off the bottom corner to drain excess water when watering. After this, the bags need to be folded in half lengthwise, you get such narrow “cups”. Fill them with soil and place them in a box or drawer close to each other. After spilling the soil with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, place 1-2 seeds in bags and sprinkle a 1 cm layer of soil on top. Carefully cover the box with film and place it in a warm place (25-27 degrees) for seed germination.

Be sure to check the condition daily to ensure the soil does not dry out. Usually after about 5-10 days shoots appear. The box should be immediately moved to a bright, warm place, but the film should not be removed immediately. When the seedlings are leveled, you can slightly open the edge of the film so that excess condensation does not accumulate; later it is completely removed.

To water the seedlings, use only warm, settled water. Pepper tolerates a lack of moisture very painfully, but it also cannot tolerate flooding of the root system. Therefore, you need to ensure that the soil is always moderately moist. Growing seedlings are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate every 10 days. The air temperature is desirable at least 23 degrees during the day and 16-18 at night.

When the peppers grow and the roots fill the entire space, carefully unwrap the bags and add fertile soil. Of course, instead of bags for growing peppers, you can simply use individual plastic cups. But they are small and over time will become cramped for the root system, which will slow down the growth of seedlings. And if you use larger glasses, then the small seedlings will sour the excess soil, undeveloped by the roots. When using bags, it turns out easier: as the roots grow, the volume of the “dishes” easily increases without unnecessary injuries for the kids.

Pepper is one of the oldest cultivated vegetable crops, its homeland is Mexico and Guatemala, tropical regions of America. But, despite its southern origin, it has taken root well in our latitudes and has become one of the main vegetable crops grown in our garden plots. Bell pepper- a perennial plant, but in our climate it is grown as an annual vegetable crop. This plant is self-pollinating, producing fruits in the form of multi-seeded false berries of different sizes and colors (red, orange, yellow, even brown). Pepper is very rich in vitamins, minerals, contains sugars and proteins, essential and fatty oils, oxalic, malic, and citric acids. Just one fruit contains the daily requirement of vitamin P. In terms of vitamin C content, pepper is a real champion, and the largest amount is contained in well-ripened fruits of the autumn harvest. By the way, sweet pepper ketchup contains 16 times more vitamin C than tomato ketchup.

Dried sweet pepper powder (paprika) is rich not only in vitamin C, but also in vitamin P, necessary for hematopoiesis, and it also contains carotene in small quantities. In this combination, these three natural substances are much more beneficial and better absorbed by the body than taking them separately in the form of synthetic drugs. They help improve metabolism, prevent obesity, and strengthen the nervous and cardiovascular systems.

The growing season for pepper is quite long, so in our climatic conditions it is necessary to grow it in seedlings and mainly in greenhouses. It requires a lot of sun and heat and does not tolerate darkening. The optimal air temperature for the growth and development of plants and fruits is within +18...+25°C. When the temperature drops to +15°C, the pepper stops growing, and as a result, the flowering and harvest time is delayed. In cool and damp summers, the amount of nutrients in fruits is reduced. And at the same time, pepper seedlings can withstand temperatures down to +5°C, and adult fruit-bearing plants can even survive frosts down to -2°C.

Agricultural technology for growing peppers somewhat similar to tomato agricultural technology. Depending on the specific conditions of each region, sweet pepper seeds are sown for seedlings from the end of February. For example, for the middle zone, the best results are obtained by sowing seeds closer to mid-March, when there is enough daylight. It is imperative to take into account the fact that the optimal age for pepper seedlings at the time of planting in the ground is 60-65 days. It is advisable that there are no frosts by this time. Using simple calculations, the following is obtained: if pepper is planned to be planted in a greenhouse at the end of May, then we subtract 65 days from this period, and we get the seed sowing date - mid-March. Older seedlings tolerate transplantation into the ground less well, they get sick longer, they can drop their buds, therefore, the time for receiving the first fruits is delayed. Before sowing, seeds should be pickled in a solution of potassium permanganate, a growth stimulant, or at least kept in warm water for several hours to speed up germination. You can wrap them in a damp cloth, seal them tightly in a glass and place them in a very warm place for several days. As soon as the seeds begin to hatch, they are sown in the soil.

Sowing is most often carried out using the carpet method. However, every gardener faces such a problem as significant slowdown in the growth of pepper seedlings after planting in separate pots: it significantly slows down growth, sometimes stopping it for 1-2 weeks. This is explained by the fact that the roots of sweet peppers are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical stress. To avoid situations like this, try grow peppers without picking.

To sow seeds, it is better to use light peat soil, sold in stores, mixing it with garden soil in approximately a 1:1 ratio. Fill plastic bags of sour cream or mayonnaise with this soil, slightly cutting off the bottom corner to drain excess water when watering. After this, the bags need to be folded in half lengthwise, you get such narrow “cups”. Fill them with soil and place them in a box or drawer close to each other. After spilling the soil with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, place 1-2 seeds in bags and sprinkle a 1 cm layer of soil on top. Carefully cover the box with film and place it in a warm place (25...27°C) for seed germination.

After planting, be sure to check the condition of the crops daily to prevent the soil from drying out. Shoots appear after a few days. The box should be immediately moved to a bright, warm place, but do not remove the film yet. When the seedlings are leveled, you can slightly open the edge of the film so that excess condensation does not accumulate, and later it must be completely removed. To water the seedlings, use only warm, settled water. Pepper tolerates a lack of moisture very painfully, but it also cannot tolerate flooding of the root system. Therefore, you need to ensure that the soil is always moderately moist. Growing seedlings are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate once every ten days. The desired air temperature is at least 23°C during the day and 16…18°C at night.

When the peppers grow and the roots fill the entire space, then carefully unwrap the bags and add fertile soil inside. Of course, instead of bags for growing peppers, you can also use individual plastic cups. But they are small and over time will become cramped for the root system, which will slow down the growth of seedlings, and then transplantation into larger containers will be required. If you use larger glasses, then the small seedlings will sour the excess soil, undeveloped by the roots. When using bags, everything turns out easier: as the roots grow, you can easily increase the volume of the “dishes” without unnecessary injuries for the kids. Another option is to use plastic containers (for example, cake boxes) instead of bags, in which, using cardboard strips, you can make separate sections for each plant, where you can sow pepper seeds individually. Just don’t forget to make holes in the bottom with an awl to drain excess water.

With this non-transplant method of growing seedlings Our capricious peppers grow evenly and non-stop and are not exposed to any stress until they are planted in the greenhouse. But even then, their roots will not be damaged, because the peppers are easy to remove from the bags and, together with a lump of soil, are transferred to the prepared holes. Thanks to this growing technique, strong, stocky seedlings are obtained with a well-developed root system and buds. Try this method - you won't regret it.

And a few more secrets from the practice of vegetable growers

Peppers are planted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other or in rows: 25 cm between plants and 60 cm between rows. It has been noticed that with such relatively close planting, peppers grow and bear fruit better. When planting seedlings in the ground, make sure that the root collar of the plants remains at the same level, otherwise the plants will stop growing for a while - this has been proven by many years of practice.

Pepper loves moisture, with prolonged drought without watering, the yield is significantly reduced. After all, the root system of sweet peppers lies shallow and overheats under the scorching sun. In the heat of +30°C, peppers can stagnate and stop growing. This is typical for many plants, as they save moisture and nutrients. Therefore, it is important to keep the soil moist, and mulching will provide additional advantages in the form of retaining moisture and protecting the roots from overheating.

In addition to watering and fertilizing, basic pepper care comes down to weeding and loosening the soil, and even novice gardeners can do this. Despite belonging to the nightshade family, which are very susceptible to late blight, pepper avoids this scourge. Apparently, this explains its high popularity among gardeners, if we also take into account its unique nutritional value for the body.

I wish you all great harvests!