Is it necessary to make a casing for interior doors? Review of the features of installing door casing in wooden houses. Shrinkage and seasonal changes in log dimensions

In recent years, more and more adherents of houses made from natural materials have appeared in the world. Wood is not the cheapest of them, but it is also the most popular. After all, wood is an environmentally friendly, heat-saving and durable material (with high-quality processing and skillful use). But wooden structures have a specific property - they dry out and sag. Therefore, during construction work in a wooden house, special attention should be paid to windows and doorways. The casing (casing) is a mandatory work during the construction of a wooden house. It allows you to reliably strengthen all openings in the house and prevent distortions of the logs. We offer below detailed instructions for making a pigtail with your own hands, including videos from professionals.

A frame or casing is a wooden structure (box) installed in window and door openings before installing windows and doors. Consists of a top, sides and window sill/threshold. It protects windows and doors from deformation that may occur during shrinkage of structures.

When making casing, you should remember certain nuances:

• elements for the pigtail must have a width not exceeding 26 cm, otherwise there is a high probability of cracks appearing in the structure;
• the wood used to make the box must have a moisture content of at least 10%. If the material has less moisture, cracks may appear inside it;
• a simple casing design is used only when attaching wooden windows. PVC structures require a more complex “support” with a carriage. But this is a separate question.

The casing for a wooden house is laid in the openings using various technologies. Depending on this, there are several types of window frames used in a wooden house:

1. "Embedded block." One of the most commonly used options due to its low cost and ease of assembly. The material used is board scraps. To ensure high-quality installation of this type of casing, a special groove is cut from the inside of the opening, into which a block with a square cross-section is placed. Next, the finishing board is attached.
2. "The thorn is a monolith." A higher quality type of casing used in the construction of houses made of solid timber and other expensive materials. It is made from solid timber with a cross-section in the shape of the letter T.
3. "Into the deck." The pigtail is represented by a monolithic beam, in which a groove is cut in the shape of the letter P. For the top, an edged board 5 cm thick is used.

Do-it-yourself pigtail making technology

Casing openings in a wooden house is a fairly simple process and it is quite possible to carry it out on your own. To do this, you only need knowledge of manufacturing technology and a certain set of tools.

Preparation of materials and tools

So, we prepare the necessary materials (edged boards, beams), do not forget about a protective mask with a respirator, as well as a certain set of tools that will speed up and simplify the work process:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• wood sanding machine;
• saw (circular or gasoline);
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• measuring instruments.

Advice. The selection of materials necessary for the pigtail should be approached with special care: the beams and boards must be of high quality and thoroughly dried. It’s not scary if the wood has defects (meaning knots).

Making frames for window openings

Let's use a simple method of creating a casing. We make grooves in the logs adjacent to the opening. The first thing we drive into the groove is the timber for the bottom side of the frame (the surface must be completely cleaned and absolutely flat). It will provide stability to the sides. First, place a layer of jute or flax fiber under it (they will serve as a kind of sealant).

Then we proceed to the vertical beams, under which we also lay a sealing layer in advance. The last one in line is the top beam. The groove for it should be slightly deeper than the others, so that there is a small gap left after installing the beam. It will act as a compensation space if the walls of the house become deformed over time. We also fill it with sealant. At this point the installation process can be considered complete.

Advice. Some builders use polyurethane foam as a seal when installing a window frame. We do not recommend using it, since it will “tightly” fasten the logs together, which will make the process of natural shrinkage of the wood impossible and the casing will simply be useless.

Making frames for doorways

With doorways, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with window openings, due to the larger amount of work and the need to modify the drawings of the door structure when using casing. Offers you the following option for making casing for a doorway:

1. Using a level and plumb line, we take accurate measurements for the location of the opening.
2. Using a saw, we create an opening of the required size.
3. On the sides of the opening we cut out symmetrical grooves for the bars (5x5 cm) and drive pre-prepared bars into them. They should be slightly shorter than the groove itself so that distortions do not occur during the shrinkage of the house. The block cannot be secured in this case! We leave it free.
4. We seal the sides with a half-meter strip of jute. You should not seal the entire surface of the opening, since when tightening the screws it can wrap around them.
5. Let's start installing the rough box. You need to work very carefully so as not to catch the bars in the grooves with the screws, otherwise they will fix the entire structure in one place, which will lead to the appearance of cracks between the logs in the future.
6. We fill all gaps and joints with sealant. Then, using platbands, we close all the cracks and voids. The seams between the door and the casing can be sealed with foam/sealant and covered with casing. The casing is ready!

We introduced you to the process of making your own frames for openings in a wooden house. Now you know that it is quite simple, but at the same time the reliability and durability of the wooden structure depends on it to a certain extent. We wish you a successful renovation!

The openings are cut out in order to later install windows and doors. The size of the opening must correspond to the dimensions of the future structure. Openings must be strengthened, since if they are not reinforced, they can move relative to the axis of the foundation. The walls in the openings will curve outward or inward of the wooden house. In order to still secure the walls, construction work involves the installation of a casing (casing). The base will help to avoid natural distortions when drying and deformation of the wood.

Price of a pigtail: from 260 rubles per linear meter

In order to calculate the price of casing a window or door opening, you can use the price list in the price section of the frame; for this you only need to know the width C and thickness D of the frame. In this section you can independently calculate the price of your joint. Price for installing a pigtail: 900 rubles per linear meter. Delivery from the production warehouse: 50 rubles per 1 km. We carry out delivery using our own transport. Delivery costs include loading and delivery on board the vehicle.

There are two types of pigtail: U-shaped And T-shaped.

Before installing the casing, the opening must be carefully prepared - cut out a ridge or groove and treat it with an antiseptic. From us you can buy casing (pipe) of both types. We produce glued casing; during operation it can withstand heavy loads, is not subject to change under the influence of various factors, and after installation it is immediately ready for painting. Our craftsmen carry out all types of work to prepare a wooden house made of timber for the installation of casing and install it. The cost of a pigtail depends on the size and type of material from which it will be made. The approximate production time for the casing is 10 – 15 days, depending on the volume of the order. All work on the manufacture and installation of casing is carried out by highly qualified craftsmen. We guarantee quality work done on time. Do not neglect the installation of real high-quality window and door casing. Now there are ways to do without casing, for example, a regular board with an embedded block. However, there is no guarantee that this will not subsequently lead to deformation of the wood or installed doors and windows, including plastic ones. It is better to initially carry out all the work on building a house efficiently, so as not to waste time and money later on correcting problems that arose during operation.

Many have never heard of any casing, but when you are dealing with a wooden house, you cannot do without this important element. The casing or frame prevents window or door openings from moving away, but does not prevent the house from settling properly.

Definition and purpose

A well-known truth is that over time, wood shrinks, and this shrinkage accounts for a noticeable percentage. It is not surprising that the presence of this fact serves as a good reason to refuse to install windows and doors directly into bare timber, because this will lead to the fact that over time they will simply be “squeezed out”.

Unfortunately, the situation is not getting better over time. Wood has a specific property of either swelling or shrinking under the influence of temperature fluctuations. To minimize the negative impact of these fluctuations, they came up with such a detail as a pigtail.

The casing, or frame, is a special wooden frame that restrains pressure directly on the windows, thereby neutralizing the negative impact of vibrations. The casing has a structure that allows you to move it slightly from time to time, thereby completely protecting the window from any influences. So, the functions of the pigtail include:

• leveling displacement and warping of openings;
• minimizing the risk of depressurization and, consequently, the occurrence of cracks;
• stopping the deformation of doors and double-glazed windows installed in their places;
• keeping the crowns in place, thereby maintaining the shape of the entire log house.

Device

The casing consists of several parts:

• casing;
• inter-crown seal or tenon with seal;
• embedded block (not always);
• internal and external platbands;
• low tide;

The device can be seen clearly in the diagram below.

Each of the parts performs its own special function, so it is not possible to refuse any of them. This is why experienced builders recommend buying ready-made casing from a reputable manufacturer, rather than making it yourself. In this case, there is practically no risk of forgetting about any detail.

When selecting elements, you should also pay attention to the following indicators:

• All elements for the casing must be narrower than 2.6 cm. If this condition is not met, then over time the casing will crack and will not properly perform its duties.
• The humidity of wooden parts should not exceed 10%. With higher humidity there is a high risk of fungus and other microorganisms appearing, and with lower humidity there is a risk of internal cracks.
• The casing is needed both when installing wooden and when installing plastic windows. The difference is that for wooden windows and doors you can make a simple frame, but for plastic ones you will need a complex analogue.

Types: which is better?

There are many types of pigtails: compound, regular, reverse secret and many others. Each type is better suited for a specific type of window. It is worth noting that the largest selection is available for wooden windows: here the choice is practically unlimited.

By and large, there are two main types of socket: “in the tenon” and “in the groove”. In both the first and second cases, fixation occurs due to the force of friction, which prevents the windows from “flying out” in the future. It is worth taking into account that the casing is carried out in a similar way both in the bathhouse and in the house. The technology will be no different.

Each type has its own pros and cons that must be considered before making a choice. It is also worth keeping in mind that the differences between internal and external pigtails are quite significant. However, a tongue-and-groove lock is present in both.

Within the framework of this section, the most preferred methods of constructing a pigtail will be considered. Some other options, such as Old Russian, secret or others, are best left to specialists, and for independent execution, choose one of the given designs.

U-shaped

The U-shaped pigtail is also called “in the deck.” It should be borne in mind that this option is the most expensive of all those given, so you should take it up only if you are confident enough in your abilities and have considerable experience in the field of timber construction.

The U-shaped pigtail is made “into the groove”. Grooves are cut along the perimeter of the window, after which the top is attached using self-tapping screws, and the window sill or threshold (for doorways) is attached with wooden nails. Wooden nails are also called dowels.

To fully understand exactly how to cut a window opening, install a frame of this type and the window itself, we recommend watching the following video.

The main idea is that a U-shaped frame is not the easiest option to do it yourself, but with the right skills, it is quite possible to make a high-quality window or door frame using this technology.

The main thing is to make the correct calculations, purchase high-quality materials and work slowly, otherwise mistakes cannot be avoided.

T-shaped

The T-shaped pigtail is in many ways similar to the U-shaped one, but at the same time it is the reverse of it. So, instead of a groove in the previous case, a tenon is made here, and the groove is cut directly into the box itself. As in the previous case, this method is quite expensive, but is still significantly inferior in financial terms to the U-shaped analogue.

The T-shaped socket is made using the “monolith thorn” technology. A tenon is made along the perimeter of the window, to which a top, window sill or threshold with existing grooves is subsequently attached to the sides. Unlike the previous case, fastening is carried out without the help of self-tapping screws. It is worth taking note that in this case, you first need to secure the lower parts - the window sill or threshold, and only then move on to securing the risers (side parts) and the top.

It is worth keeping in mind that T-shaped casing is a type of finishing frame, and the windows must be prepared for installation with a quarter. As a rough frame, this type can be used when the windows are planned to be further decorated and decorated in the future.

Draft

Rough casing is the cheapest of all types. This is due to several factors, the main one of which is the use of cheap materials. The use of this method is not always justified, however, if we are talking about a house or a bathhouse, which will be further decorated in the future (including window and door spaces), another choice will be a waste of money, effort and time.

When preparing the rough casing, they refuse to build a quarter under the window. For production, a planed board with certain dimensions is taken. Its thickness is usually 30-40 mm, and its width is 20 cm. It is worth keeping in mind that the final width depends entirely on the width of the wall itself.

There are several ways to construct a rough frame: with the window installed inside the opening, with finishing with platbands and extensions, and so on. Depending on the chosen method, the labor intensity and location of the double-glazed windows in the finished casing vary. Installation is carried out using screws or mounting plates, and all fastenings must pass through the window profile.

The advantages include such qualities as the use of inexpensive materials and ease of installation. Even a beginner can cope with such work. Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages here than advantages. Firstly, low-quality material is susceptible to rotting and cracking, which negatively affects the service life and appearance of the casing. Secondly, the windows will freeze very much. Thirdly, it will be necessary to carry out additional finishing of windows or doors.

Finishing

Unlike the previous case, here there is no need for further design of the window or door frame. It will initially look beautiful enough to be left unchanged in the future. This option is made from laminated veneer lumber or a material made up of lamellas well glued together. Due to the specifics of the material, the finishing casing is able to withstand low temperatures without freezing or warping.

The thickness of the finishing casing must be at least 65 mm, otherwise it will not be possible to make a quarter under the window, which is a mandatory component of this type of casing. If you choose a smaller thickness, the space for installing the window will be too thin, thus losing a significant part of the safety margin.

Installation is carried out in almost the same way as in the case of rough casing. The finishing structure can be mounted “into a tenon” or “into a groove”. The box turns out clean and aesthetically attractive, so there is no need to do additional finishing work in the future.

This option has many advantages: the use of high-quality material, as a result of which the likelihood of rot or warping disappears. The material glued from lamellas is able to resist high loads and temperature changes, including freezing. And the main advantage is that there is no need to further trim door or window frames in the future. Among the disadvantages are the higher cost and labor intensity compared to draft.

Arched

The arched casing differs slightly from the others, in fact, being only a decorative variety. A significant difference lies in the labor intensity of the device: in the case of an arched version, you will have to face many difficulties, mainly due to the atypical shape of this type of pigtail.

In a wooden house, you can equip an arched frame from several elements or from one block, curved as necessary. In order to bend a wooden beam, you will first need to expose it to hot steam. This will soften the wood fibers and make them more pliable.

After the arched casing is completed, you will need to purchase the remaining elements, the most important of which are the arched platbands.

Remember that not every company offers these in its range, so pay attention to finding the right one.

Thus, making an arched window in a wooden house, including the frames for it, is a rather labor-intensive task that is beyond the capabilities of a novice craftsman. In this case, if possible, it is better to contact a specialized company that deals with these types of issues.

Power

The main distinguishing feature of power sockets is their scope of application. When installing bath or ordinary windows, there is no need for such a complex structure, but when it comes to panoramic, arched windows, gates or balcony doors, a reinforced frame is what is needed. The power casing serves precisely to strengthen the door or window frame.

The power casing is constructed using the glue method (like the finishing casing). The resulting wood is 90 mm thick, which results in increased rigidity. The rest of the structure is the same. The power casing can be installed “in a tenon” or “in a groove”.

Basically, the power frame is made for doorways, with the exception of some cases when the window really requires such a reinforced frame. Moreover, this kind of casing can be done for both wooden and plastic windows.

Keep in mind that finishing a power casing only makes sense when the house is not wooden, since wooden houses themselves are usually not subject to additional finishing.

Euro

Euro casing is usually called a ready-made kit for manufacturing the casing itself, manufactured on a turnkey basis and delivered fully assembled. The euro-frame can be U-shaped “in the deck”, T-shaped “in the tenon monolith”, T-shaped with an embedded block.

The last method deserves special attention. A T-shaped jamb with an embedded bar is no different from making the “monolith tenon” version. The only thing worth remembering is that This type is primarily used for arranging door frames rather than window frames.

Thus, a European casing can be called any finishing casing, custom-made by any agency or company and delivered ready-made for further installation. Like all others, this casing consists of risers, a window sill or threshold and a top. All parts are connected to each other using locks, which allows you to do without the use of screws, nails or other fastening materials.

Combined

Combined casing is called so because it is made from two types of materials. To make the base, solid wood is used, for example, pine, and the outer layer is made of glued board, which combines various types of wood, including valuable species. This edging is finished and does not require further finishing.

The main advantages of this method include an excellent combination of price and quality. At a relatively low cost, you can get a high-quality and attractive result, because the base, made of inexpensive wood, will not be visible.

It will not be possible to make a combined casing at home with your own hands, because for this you will have to combine parts from a solid mass. Not everyone has access to this kind of material.

The only way out is to order a ready-made set from a reputable manufacturer, who will produce an inexpensive and high-quality set. You can do the installation yourself.

Materials

The choice of materials used in the manufacture of the pigtail cannot be called large. Basically, everything is limited to the use of wood, so we can only talk about different types of solid wood. Thus, inexpensive coniferous wood is often chosen - pine or spruce. The natural moisture content of wood is the state in which it is at the time of cutting. Unfortunately, the figure is often far from the standard 10%, so the array has to be dried additionally.

When decorating corners, you may need additional details, such as mounting brackets or metal corners. These metal elements provide additional rigidity and strengthen the frame.

When arranging a rough casing, fastenings are required: dowels, screws, nails. In the case of a finishing jamb, no additional fasteners are usually required, since a sufficient degree of fixation is achieved through the use of locks.

Wooden window

A wooden window is less “picky” than its PVC “brother”. So, for a wooden window, a rough frame is also suitable, and in some cases it will not have to be further finished in the future. On the other hand, the manufacture and installation of a wooden window itself is quite labor-intensive.

When framing a wooden window, you will definitely need metal and fastening parts - screws and nails. As for the frame itself, regardless of how it will be made (“in a tenon” or “in a groove”), you will need to make a box of the required thickness, preferably from the same wood from which the house is made, if it is log or timber .

You will also need insulation.

In this case, it is better to resort to insulation using natural materials, using felt or jute. They are the ones who are best “friends” with the tree, easily enduring all the compression and expansion of the logs.

Plastic window

For plastic windows, only two types of frames are used: finishing and power. In both cases, the list of materials used will be approximately the same:

• side posts or carriages are made of timber, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the timber from which the house is made;
• the upper part of the pigtail or the top is also made of timber, the dimensions of which are 5x15 cm;
• natural materials such as jute or flax batting and mineral wool can be used as insulation;
• It is necessary to have an antiseptic impregnation, which will prevent the appearance of mold, mildew and other microorganisms;
• You definitely need to take care of the presence of hydro- and vapor barrier, which should be located on both sides - it prevents the formation of condensation both on the double-glazed windows themselves and in the cracks between the frame and the walls.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the casing are not strictly regulated according to GOST or SNiP standards, but this does not mean that there are no requirements for dimensions. They have already been briefly touched upon before, but for a more complete understanding we need to delve a little deeper into this issue.

First of all, there are two factors that influence the size of the frame: the width of the walls and the size of the window or doorway. Depending on this, the length and width of the bars used for casing are determined.

As for the cross-section, the most commonly used timber is 15x15 cm or 36x15 cm with a log of 100 mm. The top is made in proportions of 5x15 cm. The reinforced casing is made of 100 x 200 mm timber to level out possible increased loads.

It is worth keeping in mind that, regardless of the type and size, the frame is installed in the house no earlier than a year after the construction of the house, especially if it is built of wood. Shrinkage of timber after wintering can reach 10 cm. This is especially true for large, expensive double-glazed windows.

Production

Having decided to order a ready-made turnkey project, it is recommended to first draw up a drawing that will fully reflect all measurements of the window or doorway. If you are not sure that you can take all measurements correctly, it is recommended that you seek such services from a specialized company. As practice shows, the production of pigtails and the taking of all measurements can be ordered from the same company.

Many of the companies offer free measurements when you contact them for casing. Be sure to use this service if it is available.

As for the largest manufacturers, the best recommendations were given for the following companies:

• "Eurocasing";
• "Obsadaru";
• LLC "Rusobsada";
• "Nareevo";
• "Soligalich plant".

I decided to install a door in my wooden house, but... a house made of timber, which shrinks by about 0.5 - 1 cm per crown, and is also sensitive to temperature, i.e. breathes, then inserting the door rigidly will disrupt the natural shrinkage of the wooden house. In order not to damage this and not to change doors/windows several times (due to shrinkage and clamping of the opening), casing is used.

The casing allows you to make the opening sliding (floating), i.e. the frame will shrink and slide along the casing without pinching the door/window opening.

There are several types of casing, but I prefer a tongue-and-groove sliding bar. The groove is made in the wall, and the tenon is a block nailed to the opening box. I will tell you about all this further...

So, there is this opening:

I will be inserting the front door, so I remove the film and mark the opening with a pencil using a level. I took the following dimensions: my door frame is 900x2000 mm, so 2 cm for foam, then 50k board on both sides and 1 cm for jute (for caulking) + 10 cm for shrinkage, the resulting opening is required: 900 in width +(20+50+5)*2=1050 mm and height 2000+25+25+20+20+5+100=2195 mm. Total 1050x2195mm. Posted by:

Take a chainsaw and cut out the opening:

This is how it looks in all its glory :)

Well, then, we begin to cut out a groove in the wall. I will use a 45x45 block, so I make the groove 46mm wide. My wall thickness is 150mm, so I measure the opening width along the entire length (height) of the groove in the center, mark it with a pencil and cut it out with a chainsaw. I’ll say right away: the chain must be good, because... Because of the stupid chain, I lost half a day while cutting out the opening and the left groove. Then I realized that the chain was dull, I replaced it with a new one and the work went very quickly. It turns out like this:

In fact, it is not so easy to make an even and high-quality groove, but “patience and work will grind everything down”! :)

This is such a beautiful groove. Next, we prepare the boards for the vertical casing posts. I took a 50k (50x150x6000mm) pine board, measured 2 boards in it to a length of 2095 mm and cut them. Because I will use a 25-piece board on top and bottom for expansion, then on the edges of the vertical posts I cut out these corners measuring 25x25:

up and down. Then I measured the length of the groove, subtracted 15cm for shrinkage, cut the block to this length and placed the block in the groove:

To reduce the cold bridge, there should be insulation between the block and the vertical post; I used jute. Using a stapler, we shoot the jute onto the vertical posts:

Now is the most crucial moment, while the block is standing in the opening, we bring the vertical posts, rest them against the lower crown of the opening, use a level to set the vertical alignment and use self-tapping screws to secure the block through the vertical post in 2 places. We take out our entire structure and tighten a few more screws into the block. I used 76mm wood screws. It should look like this:

Then I decided to insulate the groove, and used a stapler to staple the jute:

There is just a little bit left :) we insert our vertical posts into the grooves, lay jute on the lower crown of the timber and spread it out from above and below with 25-gauge boards. We attach our design with a 100mm self-tapping screw to the lower crown of the vertical stand. It turns out like this:

general form

on the left and right (between the wall and the casing) there are small gaps for caulking

The casing is ready! Now you can insert the door. The upper space is filled with mineral wool and closed on both sides.

This is the door I installed:

Now I can use the door without any problems. Next up is the casing for the windows and balcony block on the 2nd floor.

Here are the finished casings for the first floor windows (view from the inside, the windows are covered with film from the outside before the windows are installed):

Installed windows:

Results: using tongue-and-groove casing, we do not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house, do not hang out the timber, and do not jam door/window openings. Thanks to this casing, you can immediately install doors and windows in a wooden house, rather than waiting 2 years for the entire frame to shrink.

For aesthetics, I installed a casing on the front door

The next step is to make cash on the windows

I hope my article is useful to you. Ask questions in the comments.

• Combined type

When building a wooden house (from timber, rounded logs, log type), you should definitely take into account the correct approach to making casing in a wooden house. To design this element, it is necessary to take into account all possible nuances and standard requirements for technology. This procedure is mandatory for absolutely all such wooden structures.

Rough casing in a wooden house to a cranial block, which is mounted in a cut (grooved) located in the window opening. Thanks to this sliding type design, the casing fasteners do not break off during the shrinkage process of the building. Standard for all procedures with window and door openings, during their installation and the manufacture of beams for the frame, height measurements are important. The frame of doorways in a wooden house should take into account a difference of up to 7%, depending on the moisture content of the wood.

When the structure shrinks, the insulation that lines the top gap shrinks without causing damage to door and window openings. Carefulness in measuring parameters will allow for correct installation of all window installations. The casing is also convenient in that it acts as a window sill, since it completely hides from prying eyes all the ends of the timber (logs) of the building, regardless of whether they are horizontal or vertical. There is no need to change the platbands several times, since they are attached to the casing on both sides - internal and external.

Thanks to proper installation, door and window openings acquire an aesthetically beautiful, correct and attractive appearance. Blocks of windows and doors are installed regardless of the moment of shrinkage of a wooden building, because the opening is prepared and ready for use.

Rough casing or embedded block

Installation of a frame in a wooden house can be done using the sliding beam method, which is one of the most used and popular. The principle of this process is simple: a hole of a certain diameter (50 by 50 mm) is made in the window opening, which is only permissible on both sides of the window opening. A special block is inserted into the manufactured grooves, the location of which must be clearly calculated, because it will be necessary to allocate space for the installation of thermal insulation.

If you add the size of the gap for installing insulation, the overall dimensions of the block should be about 30 mm. On the inside of the window frame, it is important to correctly lay the required layer of insulation and install the block. The side posts of the pigtail are attached to the built-in beam using self-tapping screws (possibly nails). There is an important nuance - the fasteners should not be placed in the wall, only in the block.

Do-it-yourself casing in a wooden house is quite often done using a special spike, which is mounted like an embedded block. The only difference is that you don’t have to make grooves for the tenon on the sides of the window; only one ridge is cut out. Its parameters must correspond to 30 mm. A hole (50 by 50 mm) is cut out in the side parts of the casing, after which this groove is carefully covered on all sides with insulating material. Glued casing is especially popular among developers. This type involves a further finishing complex of work, which is simply necessary upon completion of the building.

This option for installing casing in a wooden house is sometimes called a U-shaped frame. A spike is installed in the opening or correctly, the end is profiled and a device that looks like a roof is placed on this structure. Beams from the frame (lower and upper) are mounted into the spacer. Their production is carried out exclusively in accordance with the parameters and requirements of a specific structural element and house. These could be balcony openings, a door or a beam.

Upon completion of this type of installation, no further finishing of the used area is carried out. This method has its pros and cons:

• An excellent stiffness coefficient applies to all possible directions of the log;
• If it is necessary to install doors or PVC, the previously carried out manipulations will not interfere in any way.

• A rather expensive procedure, due to the high cost of the materials used - parameters for the width of the bar for the manufacture of racks (vertical);
• This process covers a large volume of work - the frame takes a long time to produce, since it contains shaped elements).

When building houses made of wood, the method of glued casing of this type is very often used, which is much cheaper.

There is no need to frame the door or window opening. From the very beginning, the finished casing in a wooden house will have a fairly presentable appearance that fits harmoniously into the overall picture of the building. For this purpose, timber or logs are firmly glued together, which ensures resistance to sudden changes in temperature without leading to damage to the structure as a whole. Installation is similar to the installation of rough casing.

In fact, this is an analogue of a finishing frame, which does not differ in structural elements (threshold, window sill, riser, etc.), no fasteners are used during installation (nails, self-tapping screws are not useful) and are simply fastened together with locks. This option is most often used when installing door frames.

This design is considered one of the most complex, so it is used when necessary. Windows in houses, openings in bathhouses require a simple installation mechanism, and power sockets are not involved. Most often, their scope of application is arched gates and openings, huge panoramic balconies and windows. A special feature of this method is the use of a scheme for strengthening door or window openings. This procedure is performed for all types of windows; the structure can be mounted in two standard ways: tongue and groove.

Combined type

This process involves two types of building materials, hence the corresponding name. The base is made of two types of wood; upon completion of the work, no additional finishing will be required, because this option is a finishing option. The main advantages are the harmonious ratio of cost and quality of the material.

This type of casing is decorative and labor-intensive. The shape of the casing is non-standard; it is important to clearly measure the required parameters so as not to make mistakes in the measurements. For a wooden house, a similar structure can be made from a single block that has undergone the necessary preparation - steam treatment at a certain high temperature. This is done to increase the pliability of wood fibers. In most cases, to create an arched frame, it is better to turn to specialists.

Window trim - what tools will you need?

To carry out the process of installing a frame in a wooden house, they use a small arsenal of tools, which are selected depending on the type of wood with which you have to work. Usually, the massif is dried a little and cut down. Staples for fastening and metal corners can be used to give the frame strength. Rough casing involves the use of fasteners (nails, screws).

Since for the construction of a wooden house not only wooden window frames are used, but also metal-plastic windows, it is necessary to remember some installation features. The opening inside the log house needs to be 10 cm larger than the width of the window. First, the casing is installed in a wooden house, and then individual double-glazed windows are ordered. This is done as follows:

• drive the casing to the parameters of the window opening;
• the cut can be of 2 types - groove or tenon;
• be sure to treat the surface with an antiseptic;
• layer of sealant to spread. This can be batting or linen, which is laid in a roll;
• The sides of the casing, the so-called carriage, are being installed. The process is carried out without the use of fasteners;
• the upper part (top) must be attached to the device on the sides;
• the parameters of the upper gap of the pigtail should correspond to no more than 12 cm;
• a layer of insulation is laid, most often it is mineral wool fiber;
• mandatory waterproofing, steam protection;
• The plastic window is mounted and the gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

What is casing in a wooden house - the question has been answered. It is important to consider how this procedure is performed for a home made of timber. The material must correspond to the parameters 150 by 100 mm, the width is completely based on the thickness of the building walls. Installation and assembly are not much different from similar procedures in a wooden house, but there are certain features.

The lower part should rest against the wall, the upper part secures the side elements. The pigtail can be any of the above types. The T-shaped design is made as standard with a tenon, and the groove is cut to the parameters in the surface itself. Finish casing is widely used, which does not require further finishing and is installed under the cladding. The first option can be made of decorative wood, sanded or glued.

To summarize, we can highlight that the answer to the question “What is a socket in a wooden house?” does not carry a scary connotation, everything is quite simple for professionals and builders who do not have much experience in this field. If the procedure is carried out correctly from start to finish, the house will be soundproofed, with good protection against heat loss during the cold season, and will prevent the process of possible deformation of double-glazed windows and door structures during shrinkage of the building.

Video on casing in a wooden house

2 types of casing boxes

3 pigtails in a wooden house