Lilies: planting and care in open ground in spring. Is it possible to plant lilies in the spring and what is the best way to do it How to plant large lilies correctly

They transform the most modest flower garden into a fabulous extravaganza - along with the filigree delicacy of wax buds, a delicate fragrance wafts over the flowerbed. Powerful plants fit perfectly into garden design; lilies are used to create mixed compositions of perennials, individual flower beds and spot plantings to create bright accents. When using lilies for joint plantings, it should be taken into account that the flowering time of plants is quite short, so long-flowering perennials are chosen for planting nearby.

Among lilies there are plants with flowers of different shapes and colors, belonging to more than 100 species, but most often in summer cottages there are specimens belonging to the groups Asian Hybrids, Eastern Hybrids, Tubular, OT hybrids. Growing these lilies is not particularly difficult, so the plants develop well in the plots. Bulbs are planted in the autumn-spring period; planting lily bulbs in the spring has its own subtleties, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Spring: which lilies should be planted in open ground

Lily bulbs can be planted in open ground in the first half of autumn and spring. What determines the landing time? There may be several reasons for spring planting:

  1. Late purchase of planting material in the fall, when weather conditions did not allow planting (sharp cold, frost, prolonged rains).
  2. The gardener lacks time.
  3. Inability to purchase lily bulbs of certain varieties for autumn planting.

The traditional time for planting this flower crop is the first half of autumn, which is directly related to the natural development cycle of lilies: after flowering (summer), a dormant period begins, which lasts all winter. Then, with the onset of spring, the bulb wakes up, new roots grow and flower buds appear.

Asian and OT-hybrid lilies tolerate wintering well when planted in the fall, but it is better not to leave the Oriental group for wintering in the open ground, since you will have to put a lot of effort into creating a reliable shelter.

But if necessary, in the spring you can plant lilies belonging to any species in the garden, the main thing is to carry out agrotechnical measures for planting lilies in the spring and carry out the work in the proper time frame.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting lilies

The advantages of planting lilies in the spring include:

  1. Reducing the risk of spoilage and freezing of bulbs in winter, because even planting material purchased in the fall can be stored perfectly and without loss in a home refrigerator if there is no basement. If you follow the storage rules, lily bulbs will take root well in the spring and will delight you with gorgeous flowers.
  2. There is no need to insulate flower beds with bulbs for the winter.
  3. The risk of rodents eating lilies is eliminated; in harsh winters, hungry mice will not refuse the juicy bulbs.

There are few disadvantages, but they are:

  1. Some bulbs do not have time to form a powerful root system before flowering, so the development of the plant occurs at the expense of the energy of the bulb. Such plants bloom poorly or do not develop buds.
  2. When planting in spring, daughter bulbs are poorly formed on lilies, which significantly reduces the production of their own planting material.
  3. In cold summers (when planting lilies in spring), flowering may not occur.

Choosing a site for planting lily bulbs

In order for lilies to delight with flowering, you should take a responsible approach to choosing a place for planting; lighting is of particular importance. It is ideal if the place for growing plants has good lighting, but some types of lilies can tolerate partial shade. You cannot grow varietal lilies only in the dense shade cast by tree crowns and tall buildings.

Name of the lily variety

Selecting an area based on illumination

Note

Asian

Bright lighting

Will tolerate light shading

Tubular

Bright lighting

Eastern Hybrids

Shading from bright sun

LA Hybrids

Bright lighting

Will tolerate light shading

Martagon

Shading from bright sun

Lilies are grown in one place for a long time, so the composition and fertility of the soil is of great importance. Types of lilies can be divided into two groups, in one of which the plants tolerate excessive lime in the soil (L. Royal, L. Henry, L. Candidum, Saranka, L. Leopardovaya). Representatives of the other group (L. long-flowered; L. tiger; L. canadiana) do not tolerate limestone soils.

Sandy, clayey, swampy, dense and poor rocky soils are not suitable for growing lilies. Plants prefer moist soil without stagnant water, so the soil should be nutritious and well-drained. When digging a flower bed, humus and sand are added for planting lilies. Per 1 m2 you can add from 5 to 8 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate. Acidic soil is not suitable for growing trumpet lilies, so chalk, lime or dolomite flour is added to these plants at the rate of up to 400 g per 1 m2. Eastern Hybrids require planting in slightly acidic soils, so turf soil and peat are added to the flowerbed.

The stems of lilies are quite tall, so it is very important to choose a place protected from the wind for planting the bulbs.

Timing for planting lilies in spring

Speaking about the timing of planting lilies in open ground in the spring, it is worth noting that this procedure cannot be delayed too much, otherwise the plants will get sick and grow weak and unstable.

The time for planting bulbs in open ground is determined depending on the weather; it is important that the soil has time to thaw and warm up well. In the middle zone, lilies are usually planted in clubs from mid to late April. In Siberia, these dates are shifted to May.

Planting lilies in the ground

If many lily bulbs are planted at one time, it is convenient to make common furrows, at the bottom of which drainage is placed from coarse sand, broken brick or small crushed stone. This layer is covered with soil and the bulbs are laid out at a distance of 20 to 40 cm (depending on the type of lilies). The depth of the furrow should be equal to three times the height of the bulb plus the amount of drainage backfill. This rule applies to all types of lilies, except L. martagon, in which the leaves are formed immediately above the bulb. This variety requires little deepening.

If only a few bulbs are planted, then individual holes are prepared for each specimen.

The planted lily bulbs are covered with soil and watered thoroughly.

In just a few weeks the plant will delight you with abundant flowering.

With reverence. It is believed that this flower already grew in the Garden of Eden and the first people enjoyed its aroma. Many centuries later, the lily was associated with divine figures in Greek and Roman mythology. In nominal Christianity, the flower has become a symbol of purity and purity. And in the Holy Scriptures it is called the most beautiful of all wild flowers.

Often the lily was used to emphasize their power. In France, for a long time it appeared on the emblems of the great monarchs of antiquity. It later appeared on the royal coat of arms and banners. Even today, the lily is used on the coats of arms of some French provinces. In addition, lilies poured from gold decorated the famous Temple of Solomon. What is the secret of the popularity of a simple garden flower? Let's try to figure it out.

General description of a sophisticated beauty

Lilies grow almost all over Europe. They are familiar to residents of the northern part of the American continent and Asia. It decorates gardens and summer cottages in Russia. Its delicate aroma is liked not only by women, but also by men. Therefore, many poems and songs have been written about her.

Lily belongs to the Liliaceae family. Its close relatives are tulips, onions and hazel grouse. Like them, flowers are perennial plants that grow from bulbs. In nature, lilies come in different types. Biologists count about 80 options. Many of them became the basis for the emergence of new varieties and hybrids.

Lily bulbs are open, succulent scales. They are attached to the bottom of the plant, where the roots grow. Therefore they are considered loose. They vary in size. For example, tiny ones reach only 1 cm in diameter, and large ones can be about 30 cm. Most often, the bulbs are ovoid or spherical in shape.

Plant roots are:

  • basal;
  • retractors;
  • supra-bulbous.

The basal and retractor roots grow in the area of ​​the bulbous base. Supra-bulb roots form on the stems within one season. After the shoots dry out, the roots also die.

When transplanting lilies, it is advisable not to damage the main roots located at the base of the bulb.

The garden lily has a straight stem that grows to a maximum height of 250 cm. Some species reach only 15 cm, but this does not deprive them of their charm. The entire length of the shoots is decorated with lily leaves. Depending on the type, they can sit on it in the form of:

  • spirals;
  • whorls;
  • basal rosette.

There are lilies in which the leaves are pressed tightly against a vertical stem. There are much more of them at the base than at the top of the shoot. Other varieties of the flower are characterized by the appearance of air bulbs in the axils of the leaf plate. They are usually attached to the stem of the plant.

Straight shoots are decorated with original inflorescences in the form of:

  • cylinder;
  • cone;
  • umbrella

On each brush, on average, up to 16 buds grow. Royal varieties boast 30 flowers at a time. They are all released in order. First the lower ones, then the upper buds. Each of them does not fade within 9 days, so, in general, the lily blooms for about two weeks.

A lily flower includes 6 petals (some varieties have more). They surround the pistil and 6 stamens with large anthers located inside the bud. Flower shapes vary:

  • in the form of a bowl;
  • tubular;
  • like a large bell;
  • flat version of the bud;
  • funnel-shaped;
  • stellate;
  • turban-shaped.

Depending on this, the sizes of lily buds vary. For example, turban-shaped options can be about 10 cm in diameter. They are very reminiscent of Chinese lantern models. The funnel-shaped types of the flower have a diameter of 4 cm and a length of 15 cm. Flat buds grow up to 25 cm. A truly magnificent sight!

The colors of lily flowers simply amaze the imagination with their diversity. They come in orange and apricot, pale pink and bright red, snow-white and dark purple. Incredibly beautiful - two-color options with a rainbow tint. There are flowers with tiny spots, graceful strokes, and even with an original border at the tips of the petals. Blue lilies are not found in nature. When the buds fade, fruits form on the plant. Long neat boxes filled with flat seeds ripen in November. Thus ends the flowering season of charming garden beauties.

To consistently enjoy lilies, it is important to breed them correctly. What is the secret to planting these cute flowers? Just a few sequential operations.

Basic rules for planting lilies

In order for sophisticated and delicate lilies to appear at a country dacha, it is important to plant them correctly. Exotic species especially need this. There are several rules for planting and caring for lilies:

  • selection of a suitable site;
  • soil preparation;
  • bulb planting depth;
  • layout of lilies in the front garden.

Before choosing a place to plant flowers, you should think about how they will look in tandem with other plants. If you need to breed tall varieties, they can be planted in small groups. Another option is to place flowers at the back of the flowerbed to create a unique backdrop for miniature plants. Low-growing varieties go wonderfully with rose bushes or peonies.

The proximity of lilies to roses allows you to create reliable shelters from the winter cold. Under a joint cover, flowers are unlikely to suffer from severe frosts.

Most types of lilies love open sunny areas of the garden or partial shade. The main thing is not to plant them under spreading trees, where there is little light and dry soil. In view of this, when purchasing plant bulbs, you should familiarize yourself with the preferences of this type of flower.

In order for lilies in the garden to show off in the flowerbed for a long time, it is necessary to prepare the soil before planting. To do this, add a little ready-made humus, clean sand and natural peat. Such fertilized soil helps to strengthen the bulb and, as a result, the active development of the flower. In addition, depending on the variety of lilies, suitable soil is selected. Some prefer an acidic environment, others alkaline. For most flowers, neutral soil is suitable.

If the place is chosen and the ground is prepared, you should figure out how to plant lilies correctly. First of all, it is important to take into account the type of flower and the dimensions of its bulb. We also take into account the lily’s ability to produce roots on shoots.

Almost always, planting material is lowered into the ground to a depth that is 3 times greater than its diameter.

Depending on the nature of the soil, the depth of planting of lilies is determined. Bulbs are planted much deeper in sandy soil than in heavy soil. Thanks to this, during the hot summer the plant receives a sufficient amount of moisture. During the cold winter months, this depth allows the bulb to be at a suitable temperature. And in early spring, the plant is not afraid of unexpected frosts. In addition, a large number of young bulbs and stem roots are formed at depth.

To ensure comfortable care for lilies in the garden, choose a suitable scheme for planting plants in the flower garden. There are several options:

  1. Single line tape option. To do this, the bulbs with roots are planted at a distance of about 15 cm from each other. The width between rows is up to 50 cm.
  2. Two-line method. It is used for lilies of medium height. The gap between plants is within 15 or 25 cm. The gap between the lines is also 25 cm. The width of the space between the ribbons is at least 70 cm.
  3. Three-line planting method. It is most often used for dwarf lilies. Individual bulbs are laid out in holes at intervals of about 15 cm. The main rows and additional lines are placed in the same way as with the two-line option.

The process of planting cute flowers is done in this way. First, dig holes in the marked places. Their depth should be three times deeper than the diameter of the original planting material. A protective base made of clean sand and ash is poured onto the bottom of the funnel. Onions are placed on top. To make them sprout faster, the roots are carefully straightened and then lightly pressed into the sand. Then, the hole is covered with earth, watered with cold water and mulched with peat.

Lilies can be planted in spring, autumn and even summer. The spring option will help protect the plant bulbs from freezing. At this time, the root system develops especially actively, which contributes to successful survival. Lilies planted in the fall have time to firmly take root before the onset of winter. Thanks to this, the plant will be able to withstand spring frosts. And in winter it will be protected by additional shelter made by a caring owner.

To provide proper care for your garden lily, you should follow simple recommendations. First of all, it is important to fertilize the plants throughout the season. Special fertilizers are also used for this. For every square meter of soil, scatter 50 grams of this mixture. The process is repeated 3 times:

  • at the beginning of spring to strengthen the roots;
  • during the formation of buds;
  • after the lilies have bloomed.

For spring fertilizer, you can use a solution of ammonium nitrate at the rate of 40 grams per 10 liters of water. Pus diluted in liquid is also considered a good supplement. Proportion: 1 part cow pus per 10 liters of water.

It is important to ensure proper watering for lilies. As a rule, water should be poured at the root so that it does not fall on the leaves. Otherwise, the droplets will attract the sun's rays, which may cause burns. Despite the fact that lilies do not like excessive wetness, they need regular watering during dry periods.

Practice shows that bulbous plants do not like it when the soil overheats on summer days. This leads to disruption of plant growth and lush flowering. Using natural materials in the soil will help prevent the problem. It is especially important to use straw, mown grass and even sawdust.

Lily beetles and flies often appear on lily leaves or buds. Special chemicals designed for such pests will help get rid of them. Some flower lovers collect insect larvae by hand, which is also effective.

Planting and caring for lily flowers involves constant monitoring of the plant. If tall species are expected, then supports are prepared for them. When the stems grow, they are tied to them so that they do not break or fall. Experienced summer residents try to think in advance where it is best to place the supports.

To ensure that lilies always look attractive, faded buds should be removed on time. Peduncles are cut off after the plant has finished flowering. At the end of the season, it is advisable to mow the shoots so that in winter they do not become a conductor of cold air to the bulb. In addition, they would benefit from additional shelter made from leaves, sawdust or coniferous spruce branches. As you can see, when you know everything about lilies: planting, care and external description, it is easier to choose the appropriate option. Are there many varieties of delicate flowers known in our territory? More than can be planted in one area.

Welcome to the kingdom of sophisticated lilies

Almost every flower lover can imagine a clearing in which hundreds of lilies grow. They are all different shapes, colors, heights and aroma. Is it easy to choose the most beautiful of them? Hardly. Perhaps the American botanist Jan de Graaf faced such a situation. To resolve the situation, he systematized lily varieties into groups. Each of them was based on the origin of the plant, since most of them require the same growing conditions.

All lily flowers were divided into the following groups:

  • Asian;
  • martagon;
  • candidum;
  • American;
  • long-flowered;
  • tubular and Orleans;
  • eastern;
  • interspecific;
  • decorative.

Having examined some of them, you can visit the enchanting kingdom of soda flowers.

Asian group of hybrids

This group includes lilies that do not require special attention. They are found in different places on the planet, even in Siberia and Alaska. Flowers tolerate harsh winters well. To do this, the shoots are cut at ground level so that the snow completely covers them. Asian lilies have small white bulbs that grow well in slightly acidic soil. All of them are quite hardy and unpretentious to growing conditions. They reproduce with the help of bulbous children. They bloom in mid-summer.

The Asian group includes hybrids that grow up to 1.5 m in height, as well as dwarf specimens - up to 40 cm in height. Some of them produce tiny bulbs in the axils of the leaf blade. For this they are called bulbous flowers.

According to coloring they are:

  • snow-white;
  • cream;
  • yellow and orange;
  • dark and bright red;
  • combinations of several shades.

The most famous varieties of lilies of the Asian group cause considerable admiration.

Variety Adeline

Charming flowers of the Asian group belong to the early garden plants. They grow to medium size. Most often the buds are yellow. Their shape resembles an oriental bowl. They are almost always distinguished by an abundant number of flowers per season.

Flora Pleno

Terry beauties grow up to a meter in height. Each inflorescence contains up to 30 buds, the diameter of which reaches 20 cm. They bloom, depending on the climate, from May to August. They tolerate harsh winters well.

Curly martagons

Charming hybrids of this group are particularly hardy. The flowers are frost-resistant, can grow in one area for a long time, and are resistant to various diseases. They are even practiced in Siberia. In mid-latitudes, it is better to plant them in shady areas to protect them from the scorching rays of the sun.

Arabian Knight variety

Magnificent tall lilies of the martagon group are considered long-lived. They tolerate winter frosts without problems and bloom profusely during warm periods. Each stem produces a huge inflorescence of 50 buds. They are burgundy-yellow in color with small speckles and orange stamens. The shape of the flowers resembles an oriental turban.

Guinea Gold

Lilies of this variety have buds that are yellowish, sometimes with a pink tint. The base of the flower is orange or yellow, the edges are slightly lighter. All petals are covered with many dark spots on the inside. Up to 10 buds grow on the stem. They bloom gradually.

Snow white candidum

The ancestor of this group was the snow-white lily. Although it does not include many varieties, they all have a persistent aroma. The buds often resemble a wide funnel or tubes. Color – yellow, terracotta or snow-white.

Variety Apollo

The white lily of the candidum group grows up to a meter in height. The peculiarity of the variety is that it does not have stem leaves; they are collected at the base into a rosette. The lower leaf plates are much longer than the upper ones, which makes the plant stand out against the background of other flowers in the front garden. Delicate lily buds, about 7 cm in diameter, are collected in original clusters on the top of the shoot. The only drawback is that flowers are susceptible to diseases and therefore require special care.

Terracotta lily species

Most often, the flowers of such specimens have a wide open shape. They look up and smell nice. They amaze with their rich color. Causes a pleasant sensation during the flowering period.

American hybrid group

Plants of this group are distinguished by their amazing beauty and charm. Quite often there are two-color versions of American hybrids. If the buds are light, you can see red specks on the petals. These lilies love a lot of light, so growing in open areas, they need regular watering. During the winter, they should be covered to prevent the bulbs from being damaged by the cold.

Cherrywood - a bright American hybrid

Many summer residents plant red lilies of this group on their plots. The rich color and pleasant aroma of the buds, which delight the eye in the middle of summer, amaze with their grace. They prefer non-acidic soils and require regular watering. They tolerate Russian winters well. When planting, drainage must be added to the holes so that the plants quickly adapt and do not get sick.

Cherrywood lilies do not like transplanting, so it is better to immediately choose a suitable place for such an elegant beauty.

Columnar varieties of lilies

Extraordinarily beautiful lilies of this variety are considered the most popular in Russia. They tolerate harsh winters and temperature changes well, and are resistant to various fungi and viruses. They bloom for 3 months, and in southern latitudes until mid-autumn.

Proper planting and care of the columnar lily gives good results to lovers of garden flowers. Typically, such plants are planted in April in prepared soil. If there is a lot of clay or sand in it, it is advisable to add a little homemade humus.

In a suitable area, dig holes at a distance of about 12 cm. The bottom is covered with drainage mixture. Lay out the bulbs and cover them with soil. At the end of planting, water the area generously.

Plant care includes:

  • moderate watering every two days;
  • pruning stems that have bloomed in mid-autumn;
  • additional shelter for the winter;
  • fertilizing 3 times a year (in early spring, during the appearance of buds, after flowering);
  • if necessary, make supports;
  • replant no more than once every 3 years.

By following these simple rules for caring for flowers, you can constantly enjoy their presence in your summer cottage.

Unfortunately, it happens that lilies are attacked by pests that devour buds, leaves or bulbs. These include lily flies, beetles, aphids, mole crickets, and larvae. To effectively combat them, it is best to use chemicals. Taking care of lilies in this way brings a lot of joy and satisfaction.

Amazing lilies in the garden - video

Do you want to decorate your flowerbed with lilies? Get acquainted with the wide variety of these fragrant flowers, learn how to choose planting material, determine a good place for planting, care for planted plants, feed and propagate them! Then the design of your garden will amaze any guest!

Lily is one of the most beautiful garden plants. It blooms at the zenith of summer, bringing truly festive splendor to the garden. This is a real “oriental princess”, invariably attracting attention with the flexible grace of lines, the charm of elegant clothes and a bright, unique aroma!

Lilies have been known as ornamental plants since Antiquity. The first images of these flowers are found on Cretan vases and frescoes from 1750 BC. For the ancient Romans, lilies symbolized luxury, so rich patricians decorated their clothes and chariots with them. Since ancient times, many peoples have associated the white lily with female purity and purity, calling it the flower of the Virgin Mary. It was customary to give these flowers to brides. And orange-red lilies symbolized the blood of Christ in Christian culture. They were used to decorate temples and monastery gardens.

In Russia, lilies began to be cultivated in greenhouses under Peter I. “On the dark night of white lilies, the dream is unclear and quiet,” - this is how the Russian poet I. Bunin wrote about them, inspired by the divine beauty of these flowers.

The genus of lilies is large and diverse

Among them there are also real exotics. Just look at the giant lily from Nepal, whose stems reach three meters in height! Its white-green-purple flowers are just as huge - up to 18 cm long! And the bulbs are the size of a human head!

Hundreds of the most diverse species and varieties of lilies today decorate gardens and parks in Europe, Asia and North America. They are also popular among Russian gardeners. Many species of this plant are quite successful in open ground, although there are exceptions. For example, Caucasian lilies are too delicate to withstand Russian winters.

For our climate, tiger or frost-resistant Siberian varieties are preferable.

Each lily is beautiful in its own way. But the true masterpieces are the famous oriental hybrids! They are luxurious, intoxicatingly fragrant and impressive in the size of the flowers. For example, the flowers of the famous Nippon variety - white with pink edging - reach 30 cm in diameter! Sometimes up to 12 flowers open on one stem! Other varieties of lilies are not so large, although their flowers can reach the size of a large plate - up to 25 cm in diameter!

Oriental lily hybrids make excellent cut flowers. They are quite affordable for gardeners. You can buy their bulbs and, knowing a few tricks, grow beautiful plants in your garden!

How to choose planting material?

In the spring, when you come to the store and look at the bulbs in beautiful packages, pay attention to the following.
After winter storage, lilies quickly begin to grow. Therefore, if the bulbs are alive and healthy, sprouts should be visible on them. And the bulbs themselves should be hard.

If the bulb is soft to the touch and there are no sprouts on it, it is better to refrain from purchasing it. Choose only strong onions with sprouts! At home, place them in a pot with good soil, and after the end of frost, transplant them to a permanent place.

When purchasing, I advise you to choose the latest varieties of lilies. This guarantees the beauty and stronger immunity of plants.

When and how to plant?

It is better to plant lilies in the spring, when frosts are unlikely, or in early autumn, in September.

Lilies prefer light sandy, well-drained soils - slightly acidic or neutral.
All lilies that were used to obtain modern hybrids grow mainly in mountainous areas. The soils there are permeable, and no matter how much water is poured into them, it is absorbed without a trace. This is the kind of soil our lilies need. If nature doesn’t give it, let’s create it ourselves!

First we prepare the place. We dig holes with a diameter of 30-40 cm or a trench (if there are a lot of bulbs). We lay expanded clay, broken brick or crushed stone on the bottom in a layer of 15-20 cm. Pour a sand cushion on top in a layer of 1 cm. Plant the bulbs to a depth of 10-15 cm from the top, strictly bottom down, at a distance of 25-35 cm from each other. Fill with fresh soil and water.

Why fresh? Here's why! The fact is that all beautiful lilies do not do well in “tired” soils that have already been used for growing other garden crops.

As for oriental hybrids, this is perhaps the most important thing for them. Therefore, we prepare an individual soil mixture for lilies: 1 part fresh peat, 1 part sand, 1-2 parts pine litter. It is advisable to add finely crushed slag to the soil. Oriental lily hybrids can be grown in one pine litter mixed with sand. The results will be wonderful! Try it!

As they grow, rainfall can wash away the soil, exposing the bulbs. This cannot be allowed! In such cases, we simply add a 5-centimeter layer of pine litter to them.

How to care?

Caring for lilies is easy. All that is needed is watering in dry weather, weeding, loosening and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

If all necessary conditions are met, lilies grow well in one place
45 years. If a lily blooms well, gives birth to babies and thus multiplies, let it continue to grow calmly! But if she starts to “mope”, dig her up and replant her in a new place, in fresh soil.

How to fertilize?

If the soil is prepared correctly when planting, fertilizing is not required for the first 3 years. It is advisable to enrich soil that is not too fertile. Soluble mineral fertilizers, such as Kemira-Lux, are best suited.

We fertilize lilies during the active growing season, before flowering, 3-4 times. Moreover, it is better to do the first one when the stem reaches 10 cm in height.

All lilies, and especially their oriental hybrids, cannot be fed with manure, even highly diluted: this causes the bulbs to rot. These oriental beauties do not tolerate the presence of ash.

How to deal with diseases and pests?

Lilies, especially oriental hybrids, are susceptible to viral infections. The disease is easily identified by the mosaic coloring of leaves and flowers. Stems with leaves can be damaged by 15 species of aphids, lily beetle and onion beetle. And the bulbs themselves sometimes suffer from fusarium, root bulb mites, hoverflies, mole crickets, and wireworms.

The best remedy for any such misfortune is prevention. Periodic replanting and using fresh soil will help prevent plant disease. If this does happen, we dig up the affected specimens and burn them. You cannot plant other bulbs in the vacant space!

Moreover, it is better to remove this soil from the site altogether. We regularly inspect our lilies and make sure that no dangerous pests appear on them - aphids or the red lily beetle. Aphids can be washed off with a strong stream of water from a hose, and beetles can simply be collected by hand. If lilies grow in an open place, then water them only in the evening, otherwise sunburn will appear on the flowers from drops of water.

How to propagate?

Lilies can be propagated by seeds, bulbs, division and bulbs growing in the axils of the leaves.
Seed propagation is used mainly by breeders to develop new varieties. And for us, gardeners, it is most convenient to propagate lilies with whole bulbs or babies - small bulbs formed inside an old bulb.

Plants can also be propagated by dividing the bulb. To do this, cut off one of the

Many lilies have bulbs in the axils of their leaves. Separate them and plant them in furrows. Cover with fallen leaves for the winter. In a year, the seedlings will bloom with those fleshy, scaly leaves that form the bulb itself. And so that with each “scale” there remains a piece of the onion bottom. We carry out this operation after flowering, when the stem begins to turn yellow. We plant the cut off “scales” in a container with an earthen substrate. We water the plantings, keeping them moist. After some time, buds - small onions - form on the “scales”. We use them for reproduction.

If you want to propagate your favorite lily variety, you don’t have to spend money on buying bulbs. There is a better way - propagation by bulblets! Some species of this plant produce aerial baby bulbs the size of a pea, which appear in the axils of the leaves. These are the bulbs!

In September, we collect ripe bulblets with tiny adventitious roots from the stems. They come off easily! We make furrows in the garden bed, water and sow our “peas”. Sprinkle the top with a 2-3 cm thick layer of soil or humus. In the spring, the crops will germinate. Large bulbs will bloom in the summer, and smaller ones - in a year or two.
Oriental lily hybrids are difficult to propagate in the Moscow region. They almost never produce babies - neither on the underground stem, nor on the scales separated from the bulb.

If you still want to experiment, try separating a few “scales” when planting in spring. Plant them in boxes with soil. Place the boxes in partial shade in the garden and water regularly. In the fall, the children obtained on the “scales” can be planted in the ground. And in a season you can count on the first flowers!

How to prepare lilies for winter?

Lily bulbs should overwinter in dry soil. Winter dampness is destructive for them! This means that from September their watering must be stopped. To protect the soil from waterlogging in mid-September, before the start of autumn rains, we place metal arcs over the plantings. We put polyethylene on top so that it is half a meter wider than the ridge, and secure the edges. Leave the ends open for ventilation.

Yes! Be sure to put moisture-resistant mouse briquettes under the film! After all, they love to eat juicy onions so much!

In November, with the arrival of frost, we remove the film. Dry plantings are mulched with pine litter in a layer of 5-6 cm. You can also use an oak leaf to cover lilies. It insulates the earth well and does not rot from winter dampness. In the spring, we carefully check to see if there are any slugs under the mulch: they happily eat the growing shoots of lilies.

How to use lilies in garden design?

Lilies are one of those flowers that look great in the garden both alone and in group plantings. But, like any capricious beauties, they do not tolerate competition!

Therefore, I do not recommend placing lilies next to beautiful flowering shrubs or lush roses.
If you still want to choose a company for them, I advise you to choose conifers. Against their dark emerald background, the bright beauty of lilies looks even more dazzling! At the foot of our beauties it is good to place a lush green frill of plants with large decorative leaves. These can be hostas, ferns, bergenia. They will highlight the beauty of the flowers, and after flowering they will cover the yellowing stems of the lilies with their lush foliage.

Bright white lilies are especially spectacular surrounded by blue-blue delphiniums.

Lilies look great in border plantings in combination with other flowering plants, matched in color or highly contrasting. If lilies are your favorite flower, make a border on both sides of the path made entirely of lilies. Then, during their lush flowering, you will be greeted and escorted by them - and only by them!

In the spring, hot days come for summer residents, full of work and worries. And all in order to enjoy a good harvest in summer and autumn. But, as they say, not by bread alone... Beauty around us is also necessary, and we create it ourselves with the help of flowers. Just think how many different colors there are! And they all decorate our lives, fill us with colors and create a good mood. This is worth the effort.

Lilies can be called the queen of the garden. Such delicate, fragile flowers cannot but delight, they delight the eye, they evoke an invariable desire to touch them. The variety of colors and shades allows them to blend harmoniously into almost any landscape and decorate any flower bed. White, yellow, orange, red - they are ideal for bouquets, refreshing the interior of the apartment, bringing warmth and joy to the souls of its inhabitants.

I will tell you in this article how to plant a beauty on your property, how to care for it so that it will certainly please you. Look at the lilies that grew in my garden, they really made us happy for a long time and became the decoration of my small plot.

The very first question that arises for any gardener, whether he is a beginner or an experienced one who has not dealt with a specific species, is when is the best time to plant. For lilies, as for many other flowers, planting is important in spring or autumn. From practice, planting in the fall is a much more profitable enterprise in the future, since bulbs can be bought at good discounts by the end of the season, but at the beginning of the season the price is maximum. If you are not limited in funds, then, of course, you should please yourself with the new inhabitants of the flowerbed in the spring.

So, lilies are bulbous perennials of the Liliaceae family. This is where, perhaps, everything common to different species ends. Requirements for lighting and planting location are very individual. As experienced gardeners say: it is easier to choose a species for the specific conditions of a flower bed than to create conditions for a specific species. Therefore, if you have already chosen where to plant, study the following features: soil, lighting, protection from the wind, and then select a suitable flower. For example, it is believed that these flowers require a lighted area, however, oriental and martagon hybrids will suffer in the sun; their place is in partial shade. Preferences are usually described on the label of store-bought plants, but with breeders you just need to pay attention to the natural growing conditions or ask directly about it.

The next thing you need to decide on before the planned planting in the ground is the planting material. The bulb must be externally healthy, without mechanical damage. Elastic and without signs of rotting. And then you should pay attention to the condition of the sprout or its absence. In winter, lilies hibernate, so if you buy absolutely healthy planting material, then there should be no sprouts on the bulb during the period from the end of flowering (late summer-autumn) to April-May. The sprout in this case is an indicator of a failed regime. This does not mean that the flower will necessarily die, but it does mean that it will be necessary to wait until it returns to normal, and therefore there may not be a planned summer flowering.

There is a place, there is material... good luck! What to remember when planting in spring:

  • you can plant a plant only when you are sure that there will be no night frosts,
  • when the ground warms up to a depth sufficient for planting,
  • when there are conditions for timely watering.

For autumn planting:

  • the soil must not be frozen,
  • the desired variety should have already flowered naturally.
  • The planting of flowering plants should also be checked against the lunar calendar, then the efforts will definitely not be in vain. Unfavorable days in April and May are 5 and 19. Favorable days in April: 6-8, 20-26, 29, 30. In May: 6-8, 14-17, 23, 31.

Preparing the site and soil for planting

As already noted, the place for the lily should be selected based on the requirements of the species, which can be found on the packaging. It should be free of drafts, but with normal air circulation.

The neighborhood is also important. These delicate flowers go well with peonies, delphinium, alyssum and astilbe. Fern and juniper are no less suitable neighbors, but the combination with phlox may be too bright for the eye. But nevertheless, if you like a bright environment, you can plant them together.

They may also seem capricious in their requirements for the soil. However, these requirements are quite logical:

  • nutritional value
  • neutrality
  • looseness
  • good drainage

If the soil is too dense, the bulb may rot, and if the soil is too light, sandy, there simply won’t be enough moisture for the plant to develop normally.

If your site basically does not meet the requirements, then preparation will be necessary. What you can do:

  • To enrich the soil with nutrients, you can use compost or humus when digging; superphosphate and potassium sulfate (100g/50g per square meter); complex fertilizer such as Nitroammofoski.
  • Dense soil can be diluted with river sand and peat (1 bucket of these substances per square meter).
  • Too light and sandy soil can be corrected with peat (1 bucket per square meter).
  • Low acidity is corrected with wood ash or dolomite flour (1 cup / 200 grams per square meter).

Of course, it is worth adding that no living creatures take out all kinds of garbage in the neighborhood, be it people or green flowerbed inhabitants. Stones, rhizomes and sticks should be removed. And dig up the area for planting.

The first most important piece of advice is – YOU WILL DEFINITELY SUCCEED IT, DON’T BE AFRAID. A positive attitude will help you concentrate and get great results.

As for the landing itself:

  1. Carefully study the requirements of the species, carefully select a place, prepare it as described in the previous paragraph.
  2. Dig planting holes. There is a sufficient distance of 20-30 centimeters between the holes. But you need to deepen the bulb to three times its height. If you have a bulb 4 centimeters high, then the hole should be 12.
  3. If you are planting a tall variety, then install a support for the future plant next to the hole so that it is not broken by the wind. When installing a support after the fact, there is a possibility of damaging the bulb itself and thus destroying the plant.
  4. When digging a hole, it is worth putting a drainage layer (expanded clay, brick, etc.) on the bottom, fertile soil on top, and sand as the last layer.
  5. The onion is placed flat on the sand, bottom down.
  6. After planting, it is necessary to water the hole generously. If the soil settles, it is necessary to fill it up to the previous level.

All these tips seem complicated only at first; in practice, it all takes very little time, but the result will be gorgeous.

Video on how to plant lilies in open ground in spring

Caring for lilies in spring and preparing for winter

Care is not inherently difficult. The main thing is not to let them rot, that is, to avoid excess moisture on the bulb.

As for spring, first of all, the bulbs need to be opened in time so that under the warm layer they do not sprout ahead of time. And when they sprout, be sure to feed them with nitrogen fertilizer and loosen them. For example, saltpeter or Nitroammophoska. You can use rotted manure.

Important: fresh manure should not be used under any circumstances. It can burn.

Intermediate feeding is carried out after the emergence of seedlings before the formation of buds. This fertilizing can be done with natural compost fertilizer.

When preparing for wintering for these purposes, the entire above-ground part of the lilies is carefully twisted out. You can’t just cut it so that the cutting remains. The dried trunk turns into a tube through which rain and snow pour directly onto the bulb. The funnel formed from the stem must be tightly covered with earth. If winters in your region are very cold, the plants should be covered with leaves or mulch.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden

With proper wintering and timely spring care, nothing other than timely feeding will be required. I'll tell you how and what to feed lilies.

The first important feeding is necessary during the budding period, that is, as soon as you see the tiny buds, it’s time. It is thanks to her that the buds receive sufficient nutrition and grow large and strong. And subsequently large and bright flowers appear from them. Mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. If you are still new to gardening, I recommend using ready-made mineral fertilizers and diluting them according to the label. If you decide to try diluting the fertilizer yourself, then take a tablespoon of saltpeter or nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured onto the plants at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

It is important to remember that a whole liter will only be needed for an adult lush bush. If you have a young plant, then the dose should be reduced by half.

You can use fermented mullein solution. For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of solution. Fertilizer is used in the same way: 1 liter per adult root. Lilies also respond well to feeding with wood ash. However, it is better to carry out such fertilizing not often and in small quantities.

Important: before fertilizing, the plants must be watered and loosened so as not to burn the roots and bulbs.

The frequency of feeding is from 1 to 3 times a month. Of course, if you don’t feed them, they will still bloom and won’t go anywhere, but the quality of such flowering may not please you. Plants are like children, they love care and attention.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Like any garden resident, lilies are exposed to various dangers. In this part I will tell you what the most common diseases are and how to deal with them.

But, as you know, it is easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences, so professionals advise in the spring to water the soil with this solution: mix well 1 liter of warm water, 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, 1 tablespoon of ammonia, and then thin pour in a stream into 9 liters of water. This measure will help prevent diseases.

The most common diseases of lilies are:

  1. Gray rot. This fungal disease begins to manifest itself if microventilation is impaired. Moisture stagnates, the evaporation of which is prevented by the lack of sufficient light and heat, the presence of weeds in the flowerbed, and thickening of plantings. The sore can be recognized by characteristic spots on the base of the stem and leaves, which become covered with mold in damp weather. Serious measures are needed to combat rot. The affected parts of the plant are removed as much as possible, and the bushes are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or foundation (approximately 25 grams per 10 liters of water). In autumn, in preparation for wintering, the affected stems are removed and burned, since the pathogen overwinters on the above-ground parts of plants. To prevent reappearance in the spring, it is necessary to treat the plants with copper oxychloride (25 grams per 5 liters) with the addition of shampoo or soap.
  2. Fusarium. This insidious disease eats the victim from the root. As a rule, fungal spores are either in the soil or get there with infected planting material. Externally, the presence of the disease can be determined by yellowed and dried lower leaves. Soil disease can be prevented only by following the norms of watering and fertilizing. But it’s up to the gardener to prevent the fungus from getting from the planting material. All suspicious scales from the bulb are removed before planting. And the bulb itself is soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
  3. Mosaic. Refers to viral diseases. Externally recognized by white spots on the leaves and curvature of the stems and buds. Sick plants must be removed from the site. However, preventative measures will help protect the flowers. The disease is transmitted by sucking insects, so timely control of them will help protect the flowerbed. In addition, the infection can be spread through the sap of an infected plant, which is why the pruning shears are constantly disinfected when pruning.

The most dangerous pests for lilies include:

  1. Red lily beetle. This problem is increasingly spreading with the import of infected planting material. Already in April, it is necessary to carefully examine the plants and take measures to eradicate the problem or take preventive measures. Externally, the lily beetle resembles a fireman's beetle, and preventive measures include its mechanical elimination. If time is lost and larvae appear, then the problem is solved by treating the plants with products against the Colorado potato beetle. For example, an actara, a confidor or a sonnet.
  2. Aphids. The danger of this pest is not only in eating plants, but also in transmitting viral diseases. Treatment can be done with intra-vir (1t per 10 liters of water) or fufanon (15 ml per 10 liters of water).
  3. Mice. These rodents destroy plant bulbs. Traps with bait placed in landing areas are suitable for mice.

Propagation of lilies by seeds and scales

Every year new varieties of these beautiful flowers appear. And their prices also skyrocket every year. So what about those who absolutely want a new variety and a bigger one? And it's very simple. You need to purchase just one bulb and try propagation by scales.

As practice has shown, a capricious plant is not at all such when trying to propagate it. To do this, the scales were carefully separated from the bulb and planted in a mixture of peat and vermiculite. Almost every scale formed children, which could already be planted in the ground. Don't be afraid to experiment with this method.

Propagation by seeds is one of the most productive methods. In addition, the seeds do not transfer diseases from the mother plant. Seeds need to be fresh, as over time they lose their viability. To collect them, select a healthy stem, which is cut before the onset of frost. And then left to dry on paper.

The collected material can be planted directly into the ground or into seedlings.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs (video)

Another method of reproduction is by bulbs. Airy bulbs form between the stem and leaves; they are collected at the end of flowering. They are planted in pots and then planted in the ground in the spring. For clarity, watch the video; it tells in great detail about this method of propagating lilies.

How to propagate lilies after flowering using cuttings from a bouquet

And the last way to propagate is by cuttings or leaves. This way you can get a new root from your own lilies or from those presented in a bouquet. Although from the latter the probability of rooting of the cuttings is comparatively lower. But why not try? Moreover, there is little trick in this process. So, to obtain planting material you need:

  1. Choose a strong, healthy plant. Or use bouquet as quickly as possible.
  2. Using sharp scissors, cut medium large leaves from the stem.
  3. Plant the leaves in a greenhouse with nutritious soil.
  4. Wait for rooting. As a rule, out of 5 leaves from a bouquet, 1-2 take root, and from a garden plant, 3-4. This depends on the fact that flowers for bouquets are grown using hormones and stimulants, which cannot but affect their reproduction.
  5. The rooted leaf should be planted in an individual greenhouse and wait for the formation of new leaves from the tiny bulb.

Healthy and strong flowers are the pride of a gardener. But this is not the result of a series of accidents, it is the result of rather painstaking work. I hope the tips in the article will help you. Let your flowers delight you and your guests.