How to make a greenhouse with your own hands. How to make a polycarbonate greenhouse Do-it-yourself greenhouse manufacturing drawings

Every gardener is attracted by beds with vegetables and other types of plants. And, probably, each of them dreams of greenhouses. In this article we will look at various options for greenhouses and study the materials from which the greenhouse is made. Let’s raise the question of whether it’s better to build it yourself or buy a ready-made kit. So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands? Let's start looking.

Materials such as polycarbonate, glass, and polyethylene film are used to cover structures for growing plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is mainly made of metal profiles or wood, and polymer pipes can also be used.

Depending on the type of construction, greenhouse structures are of the following types: arched, gable and single-pitch. A greenhouse is most often installed as a free-standing structure, but an extension to an adjacent building can be made.
Greenhouses are divided into winter and summer. In most cases, a winter greenhouse is a greenhouse.

In order to grow seedlings for flowers or early vegetables, summer residents use a frame made of metal profiles, wood or metal-plastic pipes to build greenhouses. And depending on thickness preferences, cover with plastic film. To preserve the film for more than one season, it is recommended to remove it in the summer. The film does not need to be removed if it is made of reinforced film.

If an all-season greenhouse is installed at the dacha, then it must also be additionally equipped with systems such as microclimate control sensors, a heating system, irrigation, and ventilation must also be installed.

DIY arched summer greenhouse

Let's look at how this type of greenhouse is built. In order for this structure to be manufactured quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to prepare the material for it in advance. It is recommended to use a U-shaped metal profile. To do this, you first mark the shelves on the frame, and then bend them at your discretion. After that, you will need cling film, leftover corners, thick reinforcement, and an edged board.

To build a support for attaching a greenhouse or greenhouse, scraps from metal pipes are used. To do this, first mark the place where the building will be installed. After this, the pipe sections are driven into the ground, with a margin of approximately 30 cm above the ground.

There is not much difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. They differ from each other only in size. Greenhouses have a maximum height of one meter. Greenhouses can be of different sizes, depending on how and for what it will be used.

After the supports are installed, pre-bent metal elements are attached. To make the frame more durable, the arches are secured with longitudinal rigid material. A metal profile or reinforcing rod is usually used as such material. It is attached to each arch. Boards are laid along the entire greenhouse; they will serve as a boundary between the beds. Then the film is stretched onto the finished frame. It is recommended to additionally secure it with something heavy so that in a strong wind it will not be torn off the greenhouse.

Attached greenhouse and thermos greenhouse

If you have a limited amount of space at your dacha, it is logical to use an attached greenhouse. Since one side will be the side of the house, the temperature in the greenhouse will be much higher, and accordingly the plants will grow faster.

These types of greenhouses can also be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is recommended to install it on the southwestern or southern wall of the house. Thanks to this, a lot of daytime sunlight will enter the greenhouse and with it warmth.

Another advantage of an attached greenhouse is the ease of installing heating and electricity. The rest of the structure can be made of materials such as glass, polycarbonate or special film.

A distinctive feature of the greenhouse - thermos is that it is installed almost completely in the ground. First, a pit about two meters deep is dug. Then the foundation is made. After this, the walls are built. You can also choose the wall material. It is better to use wood, brick or foam blocks. As a result, only a small part of the roof will protrude above the ground. The roof can be made of the same materials as conventional above-ground greenhouses: polycarbonate, film or glass. To prevent snow from settling on the roof, it must be made gable.

In winter, the ground at such a depth does not freeze, so you don’t need to install additional equipment in the thermos greenhouse to keep the temperature at a constant level. If you cover your roof with a special reflective film, this will give you the opportunity to collect and transform solar heat.

Many summer residents believe that an arched greenhouse is unstable. And then some of them decide to build a frame out of wood. In order to build a wooden greenhouse, a number of conditions must be met. The durability of such a greenhouse will be ensured if a good foundation is made for it. To prevent rotting of the wooden frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

A wooden greenhouse is also chosen for the reason that almost anyone can build it without special skills. Woodworking is much easier than, for example, metalworking. When using metal as a frame, basic knowledge of metalworking and welding is required. To protect the greenhouse from freezing, it is recommended to use. This will be more reliable and additionally protected.

Making the foundation

The first step in building a greenhouse is making the foundation. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The depth is about 20 cm and the width is about 30 cm. Pegs are installed along the entire length of the trench, to which formwork boards are nailed. After this, a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of about 10 mm is installed in the formwork. It is believed that this particular diameter is well suited for making a frame. The frame parts are fastened with wire and then welded. When the frame is made, concrete is poured into the formwork along the entire perimeter of the trench.

To fill the entire void with concrete, you need to use a vibrator; if you don’t have one, you can make punctures in a spiral from the edges to the center to release air bubbles from the solution. The concrete mixture becomes strong after 3 weeks. However, if the outside temperature is high, it is recommended to place a film on top of the solution.

How to make a wood frame

If you lay roofing felt on top of the foundation, the wooden frame will last much longer. Next, the tree is tied. To make it you will need a beam of 10 by 20 cm section. Its lower part is attached with self-tapping screws to the foundation. Then all this is united by metal plates.

Then vertical posts are installed to the bottom frame along the entire perimeter at a distance of 75 cm from each other. The upper part of the vertical structure is fastened with wooden frame. For reliability, it is recommended to install spacers and struts.

A wooden greenhouse, like a thermos greenhouse, is covered with a gable roof. In winter, snow will not accumulate and the roof will not sag under its weight. A gable roof is easier to install. To attach the material (glass, polycarbonate or film), you will need rafters. They are quite easy to make yourself from wood. You will need a beam with a section of 10 by 4 or the same board. The structure is assembled on the ground, and then installed on top of the greenhouse.

First, a structure like the letter “A” is made from two beams. And only then identical circuits are gradually attached to it. Then they are all connected together with ridge boards. These boards are attached to both sides of the roof. The rafters are sheathed with sheathing onto which the roofing material is attached.

Roofing material

Why do many people make greenhouses themselves? Most will answer that it is much cheaper. And this is actually true. The advantage of making it yourself is that you are your own designer. Choose your own size, shape, material, type of greenhouse. You also do the internal filling of the greenhouse yourself, as is more convenient for you. And if you use ingenuity and engineering skills, you can make automatic watering and ventilation.

When building yourself, you choose the material for making the greenhouse. Depending on the purposes for which the greenhouse is installed, the material is selected accordingly. In order to grow vegetables and seedlings, you can use film. Polycarbonate or glass is needed if you want a smart greenhouse. And in this case, vegetables and flowers will always be on your table.

Everyone knows that the harvest of vegetables and fruits is many times greater than the yield simply in the ground. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase. Therefore, making a greenhouse yourself from film and wood is a very cost-effective step.

Film is used as a material, since it does not require an additional foundation. The advantage of film is that it is transparent.

Let's look at each material in more detail.

List of tools: axe, hammer, level, welding, knife, screws, nails, cord. This is a basic list of tools, but others may be needed depending on the type of structure.

Greenhouse with a wooden frame, covered with film

First, we take the bars, pre-soaked with an antiseptic and dried. Section approximately 50 mm. The concrete base is made first. First, a trench is dug, sand is placed at the bottom and filled with water. After some time, the trench is filled with cement mortar. It is better to observe the following proportions by analogy: 10 buckets of crushed stone, 6 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of cement mortar.

Next, the racks are made. You need to make 6 of them. 4 pieces for the side parts, about 2 m high, and 2 for the doors. To make the bars correctly, they are placed on a flat surface, the necessary measurements are taken, and only then they are attached to the base with screws or corners with nails. Using a plumb line we measure the level.

Ridge beams are used at the top of the greenhouse. Fastened with nails. Then everything is covered with polyethylene. Cover with film with a small margin so that you can correct it later. Then the lath is fastened with nails to the beam.

DIY greenhouse with a metal frame

Metal arches with an approximate diameter of 30 mm are used as the base for such greenhouses. You can also take tarred timber, a metal corner or a sleeper, for example. Holes are drilled in the tree, 10 cm deep every 150 cm for arches.

The slats - purlins - are attached to the side. They are connected at the top by a ridge strip. The brackets are welded from the inside, slats are inserted into them and tightened with bolts.

Greenhouse with two frames

In such a greenhouse, the sides are wooden frames. For their manufacture, a 3 by 4 rail is used. The height is usually from two meters. The width is about one and a half. The film is stretched over the frames in 2 layers and only then the frames are installed in a finished wooden frame, selected to the size of the frame.

Scheme of a gable greenhouse made of frames

The scheme is the same as for a conventional greenhouse with two frames. The only difference is that the rafters are attached to the top.

To do this, we take slats, one side is the ridge, the other is the top of the structure. After fastening, the excess slats are sawed off.

Holes are made in the wooden beam for fastening the frame with nails. Part of the frame will be the side walls of the greenhouse, and the rest will be installed on hinges, like doors.

The greenhouses that we have now considered are summer ones. Various vegetables, fruits, and flowers are grown in them during the warm months to provide solar warmth and light. There are also winter greenhouses, they have a more complex structure, but they also have more functions.

Gable winter greenhouse with greenhouse frames

In this design of a gable winter greenhouse, polyethylene or glass is used as side walls.

At approximately a height of 40 cm, a foundation is installed in a 40 by 40 section. Next comes the brickwork. Beams are placed on the brick, in which holes for the frames have already been made. The beams are pre-treated with resin.

Beams with a diameter of 10 cm will serve as rafters. They connect the ridge beam and the wall beam.

Then you can start decorating the interior of the greenhouse. For example, you can install shelving. To ensure air circulates well, leave a small hole between the rack and the wall. The areas between the frames are sheathed with slatted boards.

Single-pitched winter greenhouse made of greenhouse frames

In order for the corridor inside the greenhouse to be about 80 cm, you need to make a pit according to the following dimensions:

• depth 85 centimeters;
• length 11 meters;
• width 3.5 meters.

If the frame is wooden, then the lower part of the beam must be treated with an antiseptic. The installation of such a greenhouse is no different from a gable one. To ensure that the stove chimney is used as efficiently as possible, 10 frames are installed.

• The greenhouse must have ventilation.
• The entrance should be on the east or west side.
• Roofing felt and boards are used as materials for the ceiling.
• The entrance to the greenhouse must be additionally fenced.
• Upon completion of construction, metal materials must be coated with paint.

Those new to greenhouse construction may want to try making a lean-to greenhouse or greenhouse first. The main difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is that the ventilation of plants occurs due to the opening of part of the greenhouse. The greenhouse is easier to use, it can be disassembled at any time and moved to another place. You just need to keep in mind that short plants can be planted in a greenhouse. Most gardeners use a greenhouse to grow seedlings. Simply put, a greenhouse is a miniature greenhouse.

Single-pitched pit greenhouse made of film

Let's start with the size of the pit. The width is about one and a half meters, the depth is up to half a meter, the bottom is about half a meter. The logs are laid along the northern and southern walls. To prevent the frames from slipping, a groove is made on the south side or additional beams are nailed. Along the width of the greenhouse, frames with film with an area of ​​1 m by 1.5 m are placed. And depending on how many frames there are, this will be the length of the greenhouse. Welding can be used to connect frames.

Gable film greenhouse

First, the box is made. Dimensions:

• Height – 20 cm.
• Width – 1.6 meters.

Rafters are nailed to the sides every 3-5 cm. On top everything is connected by a beam, which also forms the ridge. The height will be about 75 cm. Every gardener can make such a miniature greenhouse. It is very fast and does not require large investments.

Rules for placing greenhouses and greenhouses

The location for installing a greenhouse or hotbed must be chosen correctly. There should be plenty of sunlight and no wind from the north. The best option would be a small area on the southern part of your site.

You need to pay attention to the condition of your soil. If the soil contains a lot of clay or a lot of moisture in it, then such land cannot be used for a greenhouse or greenhouse. The best option would be soils that have been treated in advance against pests and diseases.

Let's look at how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands? Almost every site has a greenhouse or greenhouse. These designs can be purchased ready-made. In our article we will look at how you can make a greenhouse yourself, what materials you may need and, in general, types of structures.

Types of greenhouses

One of the main advantages of homemade greenhouses is that you are your own designer and can think through and choose the design you need.

But before you start building, you need to carefully consider a number of details.

1. Select material.
2. Consider the irrigation system.
3. Do you need a foundation?
4. Ventilation system.
5. Dimensions.
6. Heating system.
7. Frame type.
8. Interior decoration.
9. Working space.

Addition. Structures, depending on their features, can be wall-mounted or stationary.

Characteristics of different types of structures

Before building a greenhouse with your own hands, a mandatory step is choosing a construction model. If the greenhouse or hotbed is adjacent to the house, then it will be economical in space and heating costs.

Most use solar heat for heating.

There are polygon greenhouses. They are distinguished by their uniqueness and complexity in manufacturing. Accordingly, prices for such structures are higher. But you will have a beautifully decorated garden plot.

Sizes of structures

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to understand what size it will be. In this case, you will need to take into account the area of ​​the site and the size of the proposed space for the greenhouse.

Let's look at what you need to consider when choosing a size:

• If you plan to grow only seedlings, then you can use the smallest size.
• If the plant will be grown entirely in a greenhouse, then a more voluminous structure is needed.
• When choosing a size, you need to take into account that the larger the area, the higher the cost of heating.
• The height of the structure directly depends on the height of the owner of this greenhouse and on the interior decoration (shelves).

Building a winter greenhouse: foundation

If the greenhouse or greenhouse is small in size, then a foundation is not necessary. However, many professionals in this field recommend using it during construction. Since the foundation protects the greenhouse from groundwater and dampness.

Types of supporting base for greenhouse structures:

• Wooden beams.
• Foam blocks.
• Brick.
• Concrete.

In most cases, homemade greenhouses are made from a wooden frame.

Greenhouse materials

An important quality of wood is its environmental friendliness and thermal insulation, which is very important for seedlings. A negative feature of using wood is its tendency to rot. Therefore, now they prefer to use galvanized steel as a frame.

Any beginner in this business will be able to independently assemble a metal frame. You just need to take into account that the thermal insulation may be deteriorated.

Building a winter greenhouse: materials for construction

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to select a material. When choosing it, you need to focus on such qualities as strength, light transmission, and good thermal insulation.

Materials such as wood, glass, polycarbonate, metal arcs, polyethylene pipes have all of the above properties.

Consider the quality of materials:

Glass is environmentally friendly and transparent. Cons - it breaks easily and weighs a lot. And also in terms of price - this is not the most economical option. Glazing will require a lot of time.

Polycarbonate, like glass, is environmentally friendly. Retains heat well and is resistant to mechanical damage. This is a very important characteristic, since the structure will not collapse under the influence of hail and stones. Its strength compared to glass exceeds 100 times. It comes in two types: honeycombs and sheets. They differ from each other in structure and manufacturing process.

Cellular polycarbonate has greater light transmission, since its material and structure scatter light across the glass.

The sheet is similar in structure and characteristics to glass.

Winter structures are more complex in themselves, since during their construction it is necessary to think through heating and heat distribution systems. Many experienced gardeners recommend, or rather, believe that a biofuel-powered polycarbonate greenhouse is the most optimal for winter. When building a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can consider the option of connecting it to the heating system of the whole house. It will also be beneficial from an economic point of view.

What is biofuel?

• Household garbage.
• Compost.
• You can use manure.
• Horse manure is the most valuable fuel.

Advice. Horse manure is mixed with household waste - garbage and evenly distributed over the peat litter.

The main feature of this greenhouse is the huge savings on maintaining the temperature - utilities. Plants can be grown all year round, even in the most severe and frosty winter. Excellent level of light penetration, which is not always the case in conventional greenhouses.

Main features of this greenhouse:

The main advantage is that, starting from a depth of 2 meters, the soil maintains the same temperature constantly: in winter, in summer, in frosts, and in rains.

Note. There are slight changes depending on the level of groundwater; the closer they are to the surface, the more noticeable the temperature fluctuations.

A good example is a well. In the well, both in summer and winter, the temperature is constant, above zero.

At a depth of approximately 1 meter, temperature changes are noticeable: in winter +5, and in summer up to +10.

The base of the greenhouse can be heated to such temperatures using a heated floor. And to maintain air and soil humidity, it is necessary to use drip irrigation.

Note. A thermos greenhouse can be built in just one season, without using any special equipment and without high costs.

Digging a pit. Land work for a greenhouse

Since the greenhouse goes into the ground, the main part of it, you need to dig a hole of at least two meters. Only then will the soil not freeze, but give off its heat.

The underground part can be as long as you like, but the width is limited - only 5 meters.

Note. You can make the width larger, but then the natural heating and reflective properties will be worse.

The shape can be any, the main thing is to orient it to the west-east side. One side will be thoroughly insulated with foam plastic or glass wool, and the second should be well illuminated by the sun.

The foundation will be poured along the edge or concrete blocks will be laid, so the edge must be well leveled.

Construction of the wall

When the foundation is completed, you can begin to lay out the walls. On the concrete base there will be a metal frame on which the thermal blocks will be attached.

• The best roofing material is polycarbonate.
• Installation takes place on a metal structure with lathing.
• It is necessary to thoroughly strengthen the attachment points.

How best to make thermal insulation and heating:

A special film is attached to the inside of the wall; it retains heat perfectly.

Advice. In regions with very cold climates, a foil-coated film and a double base layer can be used to retain heat; in relatively warm regions.

The main function of reflective insulation is to maintain positive temperatures and, as a consequence, humidity and carbon dioxide levels. That is, everything that is important for the normal growth of any plant.

Even inside the greenhouse, it is necessary to provide “heat accumulators”.
Note. “Heat accumulator” - this can be any container with water, for example, bottles; they heat up well and quickly and gradually cool down over time, maintaining the temperature.

The base will be heated using underfloor heating. When using it, it is very important to protect the wires from damage by garden tools and moisture. To protect against both aspects, you can lay it in concrete; an easier way is to cover it with a mesh - but this is only from garden tools.

Heating of the floor in a greenhouse is often done under tiles, and plants are planted in pots, tubs, and lawns.

Note. For plants, the main thing is to maintain the optimal temperature of 25-35 degrees Celsius and humidity level.

How to build a roof in a greenhouse with your own hands

When the walls are completely ready, you need to prepare the roof for the greenhouse. The best option for a 12-meter structure is polycarbonate.

It is necessary to provide when constructing a roof:

• Heat retention inside the greenhouse is achieved through the use of double polycarbonate (cellular) coating.
• To connect 2 polycarbonate sheets, each 4 mm thick, take a profile pipe gasket.
• The snow itself will not melt on such a double coating, so you need to use a thermal circuit; it will turn on and off using a timer.
• The use of double coating reduces heat loss during heating, but light transmittance is reduced by approximately 10%.
• We prepare the rafters in advance - we impregnate them with protective agents.
• The connection occurs in 1/2 of the tree, and the jumper is attached so that the length at the lowest point is up to 5 cm.
• The rafters prepared in advance will be the support, the lintels are removed, and a ridge beam is placed under them.
• The outer rafters are nailed to the ridge beam using ordinary 20 cm nails.

Once the roof is assembled, it can be painted; after the paint has completely dried, the polycarbonate is attached. For fastening you need to take wood screws. Therefore, an iron corner for the roof is attached along the beam, and a special gasket made of heat-insulating material is also used.

The junctions between the polycarbonate and the roof parts must be well taped with adhesive tape. After all the preparatory work, you can mount the polycarbonate roof in place and secure it to the walls. Then you can move on to arranging the interior space.

Our main goal is to build a greenhouse for the winter period and provide heating in it with little money and labor costs. In this article we will consider the most economical ways to maintain heat and heating, and the choice of materials that best minimize losses.

The design must be solid, designed for long-term use, as inexpensive as possible, economical in terms of heating.

How can you achieve savings?

Let's divide the question into two parts. We have to:

• Build a structure that will absorb maximum heat on sunny days and release minimum heat due to radiation and concept.
• Choose the most inexpensive method of heating in winter (and not only) - taking into account how it will be done and how much operation will cost.

Construction

First, we sweep away greenhouses using film or made of wooden frames, with glass, in one or two layers. Why?

In the first option, you can forget about heat conservation in principle. Losses due to convection are very large; and this material is also too easy to accidentally damage. In winter, all these facts will definitely lead to the destruction of the crop. Such a greenhouse is inexpensive in terms of financial costs. But its thermal insulation properties are practically zero.

In the second option, there will also be a practically unsolvable issue - heat leakage through the holes between the glass and the frame. Wood can dry out or change shape when humidity changes. Also, due to the effects of snow and rain, the frames must be coated with protective compounds, for example, painted, every year.

What remains?

Can choose

• Metal-plastic greenhouses, with several layers of glazing.
• Greenhouses on metal structures with polycarbonate.
• Metal-plastic.

In this case, there are many ready-made designs and all we have to do is choose it and pay for the material and installation.

Basic principles to consider when designing

If we consider the amount of solar energy that can be obtained, then the best option would be with a pitched roof directed to the south. In this case, the sun will almost constantly shine on it at almost a right angle.

The northern wall is being built opaque. It also needs to be insulated from the inside with foil insulation - foil inside. With such a construction, heat and light entering the greenhouse will be reflected from the foil and hit the beds at right angles. Since from the physics course we know that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.

Attention: you cannot make a roof with a slope of less than thirty degrees. In winter, snow can accumulate, which is undesirable for obvious reasons.

What do we get? The advantages of this solution are durability, wear resistance and good thermal insulation. The main disadvantage is the amount that will have to be spent on purchasing such a greenhouse. The price of 1 square meter starts from 2,500 rubles; if you plan a large area, you will end up with a substantial amount.

Polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate gained popularity very quickly after its appearance due to the combination of its beneficial properties. Even when used in one layer, good thermal insulation is provided due to the cavities inside. Air is one of the best heat insulators.

Polycarbonate is almost 15 times lighter than glass, which practically eliminates the question of structural strength.

This material is easy to bend and give the desired shape. Polycarbonate can be used together with an arch-shaped frame without any difficulties or problems. By the way, this design eliminates the problem of snow; the arch does not trap snow and it does not accumulate. Simple fastening, with self-tapping screws to a metal structure, and ease of processing.

The simplest recommendations are possible due to the characteristics of polycarbonate and the type of metal structure. The strongest frames are made from profile pipes. The arch is formed using a pipe bender, and the structure is assembled by welding. The cross-section of the pipe for the arch is 20*40 mm, the corner posts are made of pipes with a diameter of at least 40*40 mm.

Ventilation windows are a must; they will help plants survive sunny days. Greenhouse using prof. pipes, with a pitched roof - simply assembled with bolts. Slopes at the corner posts are needed only during the assembly of the structure; in the future, polycarbonate will provide rigidity.

Even cheaper and easier to manufacture is a galvanized profile, which is used when working with drywall, but it is not so resistant to lateral loads (in the wind). When using it, you need to make the roof slope 45 degrees; even minimal accumulations of snow are undesirable.

At the end, polycarbonate sheets with open honeycombs must be sealed using special strips or sealant. Thus, we will reduce heat loss due to convective flows inside the cells.

Heating

How to start heating inside the greenhouse yourself? Let's consider the most affordable solutions for small greenhouses. We will consider only air heating, because the use of radiators, their installation, pipe routing, all this will not be cheap. And there is a high probability of freezing this system in winter.

Gas

Heating using a main gas pipeline, how to do it correctly? A simple solution is a convector; how many of them are needed will depend on the area of ​​the greenhouse. Thermostats that are used in the design of this device allow you to get results without having to worry about adjusting burners and other issues.

The combustion products will go out into the open air through the pipe, and air will flow through it to maintain combustion.

If the size of the greenhouse is large, you can install a gas boiler. The heat exchanger can be blown with a fan; if necessary, warm air is distributed using aluminum hoses. Thermal insulation, as when using a boiler to heat a house, is not needed, we have one room.

With the onset of cold weather, work in the garden and vegetable garden comes to an end. And summer residents regretfully have to leave their plots. Despite the fact that growing fruits and vegetables only becomes interesting towards the end of the season. But if you build a heated greenhouse on your summer cottage, you can grow anything you want even in severe frosts in winter.

Construction type

First you need to choose the type of greenhouse, and only then begin calculations and construction. The choice options depend on the purpose of the site and its features, on the location. Avid gardeners recommend designs using polycarbonate as a material. This is the easiest and most popular option. Another good option is a thermos greenhouse. It is erected in late spring or summer, because it is necessary to have time to prepare the soil for planting. Polycarbonate structures can be made at any time of the year. This material is very popular because it has a number of useful qualities from the point of view of greenhouses.

With a small thickness, polycarbonate creates the necessary thermal insulation in winter. It has a honeycomb structure, and the honeycombs are filled with air, which has better thermal insulation properties.

The weight of polycarbonate is 15 times less than glass, so a reinforced frame is not needed. It is very easy to make an arched structure from this material; it bends easily.

Paperwork

If you have a greenhouse for the winter period on your own site and you do not want to create a large-scale production, and accordingly use the labor of hired workers and sell the products of a legal entity. persons do not need to prepare documents. To sell on the market, you only need a certificate stating that you grow them on your own plot.

The owner of a large greenhouse farm using hired labor, the harvest of which is sold through shops and in cafes and restaurants, needs to register a legal entity. You can also register as an individual entrepreneur or private agricultural enterprise. This will allow you to achieve tax benefits, although all this is difficult.

Where should we build?

The greenhouse must be placed so that most of the sun's rays reach it. It is necessary to ensure that shadows from houses, buildings and trees do not fall on it. The sides of the greenhouse should be oriented north and south. Also keep in mind that wind significantly increases the heat loss of the structure.

By placing the greenhouse in the wrong place, you will get the exact opposite effect from what you expected - in the form of high heating bills and poor growth of the vegetables and fruits you grow in it. When building a winter greenhouse with your own hands: covering materials, types of heating, location on the site and type of structure, you need to choose based on what plant crop you will grow. An important fact is financial capabilities that need to be taken into account.

Features of construction

Many amateur gardeners, when faced with this question for the first time, wonder what the differences are between an ordinary greenhouse and a winter greenhouse. But the differences between them are significant.

Before you start building a winter greenhouse, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with all the important points and its features. Temporary structures are assembled from separate frames. Since the weight of this structure is light, it does not require a foundation. Greenhouses using polycarbonate as a covering can be mounted on columns made of ordinary brick.

The winter greenhouse is a solid construction. It has electricity and heating. The rigid and heavy frame allows you not to worry about the loads arising from wind and snow. But for it it is necessary to make a solid foundation.

An ordinary greenhouse can be small in size. It all depends on how many and what crops you will grow in it. Growing vegetables in winter in most cases occurs for further sale, therefore the requirements for the greenhouse area are completely different, they start from tens of square meters.

The material for covering this structure can be absolutely anything. But the best, most affordable and reliable is polycarbonate.

Before you begin building a winter greenhouse, you need to consider the possibility of severe frosts and, as a consequence, the need for additional thermal insulation.

The location of the greenhouse must be chosen very carefully, because this is a capital building for more than one year. It’s good if it’s a flat area, well lit and without buildings nearby. You also need to take into account the humidity of the ground on which the building will be built; it should be within normal limits.

The foundation for the greenhouse can be made using a finely buried reinforced concrete strip. Since the foundation must be solid, not for one year, when pouring it, you need to do everything in accordance with the requirements.

When the base is ready, you can assemble the structure frame onto it. Factory-made structures are usually supplied with drawings and photographs that will greatly help during installation. Polycarbonate sheets are attached to the frame with rubber washers. To ensure a tight seal, their edges can be sealed with tape. To ensure the flow of fresh air into the greenhouses, several windows are made. If you have a desire to grow vegetables, but you don’t know how to build a winter greenhouse yourself, you need to contact specialists or buy a factory-made structure.

Heating type

The type of heating used must be selected based on the usable area of ​​the greenhouse. Small spaces can be provided with heat using a stove. If the areas are large, then you need to choose from:

• Water heating.
• Electric heating.
• Biofuels.

To use water heating you will need pipes, a tank and most importantly a boiler. The pipes can be buried in the ground or placed directly under the racks.

Electric heating can be air or underfloor heating. Infrared heating is also very often used. The “warm floor” system is similar in design to a water system. A system consisting of heating cables is installed in a small recess. And then it is covered with layers of sand and fertilized soil. Air heating can be organized using fan heaters. Infrared heating is provided by IR heaters located on the ceiling.

Biofuel is the most inexpensive heating method.

Biofuel can be: manure of any cattle or horse, decaying wood and bark, hay or straw.

Biofuel is located under a layer of fertile soil. For proper heating of this type of heating, it is necessary to have a constant flow of air and maintain the required level of moisture in the air.

Only you decide which type of heating to use in your greenhouse. Each option needs to be considered from a financial point of view. You now know how to build a winter greenhouse for growing plants. You need to figure out how to properly place everything in it - the layout of the internal space.

How to arrange the beds?

If you will grow plants of the same type in a greenhouse, you can arrange the beds in parallel. Keep in mind that different cultures may not get along next to each other. To breed them together, you need to use division into separate zones. For example, it will not be possible to grow tomatoes and cucumbers side by side, because they require different watering methods - tomatoes need to be watered directly at the root, while cucumbers need a drip irrigation system.

Finance, profit, payback period

Correctly calculating the income from a winter greenhouse is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. The calculated profit and profitability of this entire enterprise greatly depends on the distance, the city, markets and the harvest obtained. A more or less realistic return on investment period is two or three years.

Sales channels

Fruits, vegetables and herbs are products that are in constant demand during the warm season, and especially in winter. Growing food in winter has the best profitability because prices for fresh herbs, tomatoes and cucumbers are very high.

Sales market

Grocery chains and small shops, and even supermarkets. They sell a very large volume of vegetables every day, so concluding supply contracts with them is very beneficial for you as a farmer. But it will be necessary to register a legal entity, and these are costs that need to be taken into account. Although, if the crop that turns out to be grown is large, you can think about this sales market. Market, all beginning gardeners sell herbs and vegetables here. Rent a kiosk or tent or place and you can start selling your harvest.

Direct sale of herbs and vegetables. You can place advertisements on highly specialized websites, forums, and message boards on the global network. And there will be buyers very soon.

One of the lightest and easiest to install and assemble is a greenhouse using a wooden frame, which is covered with a special greenhouse plastic film. The main advantage of this structure is the availability of materials, speed and ease of installation. Disadvantages: fragility of the coating, which can be easily damaged.

Another design came to us from Soviet greenhouses. Glass is used as a covering material. Its advantage is the possibility of operation all year round, if heating is installed and double frames are made for the winter period. The light transmittance is ideal compared to any other material. The disadvantages are the complex construction and the fragility of glass as a material.

The type of greenhouse that is worth paying attention to is the increasingly popular structures coated with cellular polycarbonate. The advantages include long service life, low weight, wide temperature range, excellent rigidity and strength parameters. The disadvantage compared to glass is that light transmission is about 90 percent.

To install a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to pay special attention to the foundation. How to make a foundation? You need to dig a small ditch with an approximate depth of 10 to 30 cm, and the length and width are calculated based on the required area. The base must be protected from moisture - apply waterproofing, this can be roofing felt. If there is a strip foundation, then it is necessary to install formwork from any materials remaining on the garden plot. The fittings can be replaced with any other metal; remnants from old pipes and pieces of steel wire are also suitable.

Since the length of the brick is 25 cm, the width of the brick foundation will be the same.

The height of the foundation will be about 20 cm above ground level. The height of the foundation will need to be increased if you use high beds. Recommends an increase of up to 50 cm. This will result in a small wall. It will also be installed in it.

We've sorted out the foundation. Now you need to make a choice between finished material or rough material.

What is rough material? These are various types of rolled metal for the frame, polycarbonate, gaskets, etc. A greenhouse made of such materials can only be of a certain shape, since they narrow the list of shape choices. At first glance, it will look like a small house with a transparent roof and walls. This is due to the fact that in houses without certain skills and the necessary equipment, it is difficult to make arcs from a power frame.

A greenhouse made from this type of material has an advantage - it is economical to build. There is no need to draw up a project, you do not need to buy materials and tools for installation, and you can install the greenhouse yourself without hiring contractors. For construction you will need the following tools: a drill, a hammer, screwdrivers and a hacksaw for working on metal.

On the sheet you make a drawing with the dimensions of your building in order to have an idea of ​​​​the general appearance of the greenhouse. It is not necessary to comply with GOST standards; your drawing is enough. The most important thing is that you yourself understand what to do and in what sizes.

Recommendations for installing this type of greenhouse are not practical, since each gardener has different types of plot. And everyone will adapt to their own layout, and take into account all the aspects and features of their site when designing a greenhouse. The material from which you decide to build the greenhouse also matters during manufacturing.

Positive characteristics of this type of greenhouse:

1. Saving your time. Since the manufacturer himself calculated everything and did the design work.
2. The kit contains all materials for installation. There is no need to search for materials.
3. The finished kit already contains a diagram for assembling a greenhouse. After carefully studying it, you can easily assemble it yourself.
4. All elements have a specific size, as they were manufactured at the factory.

The negative point is that they are the same type. The market now offers arches in the form of a tunnel (arched type). The advantage of this design is that, due to its arched shape, it has greater light reflection. And also, water from rain will not accumulate on such a surface. The downside is that it is less durable and rigid.

Assembly should not be difficult. We take out the diagram, look at the drawing and clearly, following the instructions, assemble the structure, almost like assembling a construction set.

The most difficult thing when assembling a greenhouse is installing the polycarbonate. The most important thing is to strictly follow the instructions. The only recommendation is that if one person will assemble the greenhouses, then you need to prepare supports in advance.

Since it is quite soft, caution is required when working with it. And also during the assembly process you will need to cut and drill the material. The main thing here is to prepare in advance by marking with a construction marker.

When cutting material, we recommend using a utility knife approximately 3 knife segments long so that the knife does not go to the side.
Since polycarbonate is a ready-made structure, it has stiffening ribs inside. Therefore, cutting may be difficult. The main thing here is experience. You can start by taking a small piece of polycarbonate and working with it, so to speak, to get a feel for the material. And if you have a jigsaw, then, of course, use it.

Another important point during assembly. The set includes a vapor transmission tape. Be sure to use it. It will protect your greenhouse from excess moisture and dirt.

So, we have looked at several types of greenhouses. Each of them has its own special and distinctive characteristics. And when building a greenhouse with your own hands, the best projects for yourself will be those that will allow you to focus on your goals, tasks and capabilities. After all, it doesn’t matter at all what kind of harvest you have, the most important thing is that it was made with your own hands and will delight you and your loved ones with a wonderful harvest.

The arrangement of the greenhouse should include the use of its space with maximum benefit. Each option for the location of beds, paths, auxiliary structures and equipment has its own pros and cons. The choice of the optimal solution depends on the design of the structure, the type of plants grown and the capabilities of the owner.

In a greenhouse, heating occurs naturally, but in a greenhouse you will have to build additional heating elements that must maintain a temperature of 13 to 25 ° C.

Differences in the purpose of a greenhouse and a greenhouse

Unlike a greenhouse, a greenhouse is a more permanent structure for growing lemons, tall cucumbers, tomatoes, flowers and other plants. A greenhouse is a small-sized structure, most often used for preparing seedlings that will subsequently be planted in open ground. Only crops with early ripening (radish, lettuce, etc.) undergo the entire development cycle under greenhouse conditions.

For plants that require warmer conditions for ripening, greenhouse structures with artificial heating systems are needed.

It is necessary to arrange the inside of the greenhouse taking into account the purpose of its use. The room can be planned for growing vegetables in the ground or preparing seedlings on shelves or in pots. It can reach three or more meters in height.

The greenhouse cover usually rises above the ground by no more than 1.5 m. Another difference of the greenhouse is that it is heated naturally: by the sun's rays and the heat generated by the oxidation of plant residues and manure. Setting up a greenhouse is much easier than setting up a greenhouse. There are no special differences in the formation of beds and the location of passages in both structures.

It is more practical to select the design of a greenhouse or greenhouse based on the types and number of plants intended for cultivation. But if you have already built a structure or it is of a standard form, then the beds in it will have to be adapted to the existing conditions.

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Location of beds and passages

There are several options for arranging beds, from which the gardener must choose the most suitable one for his greenhouse or greenhouse and the plants being planted.

Layout of beds. Option 1.

1. In narrow and long greenhouses, beds about 1 m wide are placed on the sides, leaving a convenient passage for caring for plants. If the transverse size of the room does not allow making the paths in the greenhouse comfortable enough, it is better to sacrifice the width of the beds. Even if there is not enough space for the third row, the first two can compensate for this with a larger harvest. With less shade, plants will receive more light.
2. Three beds with two aisles. A more convenient option for processing the outer rows, but inside the greenhouse, the paths take up even more space. The middle row can be made 1.5 m wide, the side rows - no less than 45 cm and no more than 95 cm. The width of the passage should be at least 60 cm, it is better to pave it with boards or bricks.
3. A wide bed in the middle and two narrow ones at the edges. This placement increases the usable area compared to the previous option, but the greenhouse or greenhouse in this case must have a larger width.
4. Pyramid beds. Low-growing plants with root systems located close to the surface are planted at different levels. More often, this placement is used for growing strawberries and wild strawberries.
5. Landing across a slope. If the greenhouse soil has a slope, the beds are arranged in a transverse direction. This arrangement is effective due to the uniform incidence of sunlight on the plants.

In small greenhouses, two beds with one aisle are usually arranged. The width of the path should ensure free movement of the wheelbarrow. If the plants being grown are not tall, the beds are traditionally directed from north to south. Tall crops are planted in rows from east to west. With this direction, the low morning rays of the sun penetrate through the rows and illuminate the bushes evenly.

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Height and formation of beds

Layout of beds. Option 2.

The height of the beds also affects the yield. They should rise above the ground level by at least 30-60 cm. The soil at an elevation warms up faster in the spring due to the sun's rays and warm air currents. It is also more convenient to care for plants planted at this level. A thicker fertile layer promotes better plant development.

If you are planning to plant seedlings of early ripening crops in a greenhouse, you need to protect the plants from lower temperatures. In this case, the height of the bed is made at least 80 cm, and fences made of boards are installed for insulation.

The disadvantage of high beds is the need for more frequent watering; they have increased drainage properties.

Not only the location and height of the beds matters, but also their preservation of the given shape. To prevent the soil from crumbling, sides made of various materials are used to delimit the rows. More often, boards are used for this, but this material rots quickly and only lasts one season.

The factory version has aluminum sides. They are sometimes included with the purchased prefabricated greenhouse. They can last for several decades. For these purposes, slate and metal profiles are also used, and old car tires are used.

You can purchase frame borders made of galvanized iron or polycarbonate at gardening stores. These are collapsible devices, covered with a special polymer coating and are rust-proof during long-term use. For low embankments, soft strip borders are used. They are cheap, practical to use and create a pleasant appearance in a variety of colors.

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Soil preparation (“pillow”)

The “pillow” soil is laid in three layers, the first is wood chips, then food waste (vegetable peelings) and lastly sawdust.

To speed up the growth of plants, the beds in the greenhouse are “insulated” by equipping a kind of “cushion”. It is an organic mass that releases heat during decomposition. Horse manure has the best heat release properties.

Components such as finely chopped wood chips, food waste (potato peels, peelings of other vegetables, etc.) and sawdust are used to make the “pillow.” The composition is laid in three layers in the order listed.

The soil of the greenhouse must be fertilized, retain water well and be free from insect pests. The prepared soil composition can be purchased at a specialized store or prepared independently. To do this, mix garden soil, river sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1:1:2:5. To improve the quality of greenhouse soil, this mixture is added to the soil at a rate of 3 kg/m3

Another composition that increases the nutritional properties of the soil is mixed from straw cuttings, manure and decomposed peat (1: 1: 2). 2 kg of sodium chloride, 3 kg of superphosphate and 300 g of urea per 1 m 3 are also added to the mixture. The resulting fertilizer is poured in a layer of up to 18 cm, then garden soil is added until the height of the bed reaches 25 cm. Before planting seedlings, you can additionally fertilize the soil with superphosphate (30 g/m3) and sodium sulfate 20 g/m3.

All summer residents are familiar with this picture: May, it’s warm, the sun is shining brightly, there are the first shoots of early planting, the next morning you look out the window, and snow has fallen. Of course, this is not a completely favorable phenomenon, which will negatively affect yields, especially on crops that are sensitive to sudden temperature changes. If you are waiting for an early harvest to sell, then losses cannot be avoided. But it is quite possible to get out of this situation. It will not be possible to stop the snow, but everyone can protect the seedlings from it. This is exactly why a greenhouse is being built.

You can find many original ideas on how and what to build it from. We suggest you figure out how to build a greenhouse using polycarbonate. The article will present options for its arrangement, tell you what kind of foundation can be built, what to make the frame from and how to mount polycarbonate. We are sure that after reading the material you will be convinced that it is possible to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself.

Varieties of types and forms of greenhouses

Today you can find different forms of greenhouses. Most Popular:

• arched;
• tent

They differ from each other in the shape of the roof. There are also other differences, they are listed in the table:

Some greenhouses are not built for growing certain crops directly in the ground. In this case, the construction of special racks and shelves will be required.

There are options for greenhouses with removable insulation panels. For example, they can be removed during the warm season. When it gets cold, removable shields are put in place, and they protect the plants from cold and precipitation.

In any case, regardless of the chosen form of construction, the following must be taken into account:

• The greenhouse must be durable and functional.
• All plants must be freely accessible.

Polygonal dome-shaped greenhouses attract with their originality and shape. The process of making them is labor-intensive. Moreover, it is extremely difficult to cover them with polycarbonate.

Important nuances of choosing an installation location

There are several important nuances that should be taken into account when choosing a location for installation:

• soil composition;
• landscape drawing;
• side of the world.

As for landscape design, it is important to take into account the nature of the terrain or the dynamics of soil conditions. For example, if the greenhouse is installed on a slope, will it not be flooded when the snow or rain melts? Also pay attention to the level of soil freezing and groundwater levels. The values ​​should be no higher than 1.2 m, otherwise the rising water will wet the roots, which will eventually rot.

Note! If the groundwater in your area is higher than 1.2 meters, then it is necessary to construct a drainage system to remove moisture.

As for the choice of cardinal directions and suitable soil, it is worth talking about this in more detail. If you do not pay enough attention to this issue, the yield in the greenhouse may be poor. This will be discussed further.

Determining soil for growing greenhouse plants

The soil should be relatively dry and level. If you dig a shallow hole where you plan to put a greenhouse and find clay in it, then this place is not suitable for a greenhouse. Clay retains moisture, so after each watering the water will remain on the surface for a long time.

Sandy soil is considered the ideal soil. If you don’t have sand on your site, then it is important to perform a number of additional works: dig a pit, pour sandy gravel and fill in a sand cushion. A layer of fertile soil should be poured on top.

Selecting cardinal directions

To begin with, it is worth noting that the correct location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points contributes to serious savings on your money. If the greenhouse receives enough sunlight, there will be no need for lighting. In addition, sunlight will provide the plants with the necessary warmth. Agree that organizing the heating and lighting of a greenhouse will require a lot of money, but finance is still needed to maintain the systems and keep them in working order.

So, there are 2 good ways to install a greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions:

• from east to west;
• from North to South.

The first option is the most effective. Thanks to this arrangement, the plants will receive sunlight throughout the day.

Note! If your greenhouse is square, then these requirements do not apply to it. Determining the cardinal directions is necessary for greenhouses with dimensions of 3×6, 3×8 m or more. You can install a square greenhouse in a way that is more convenient for you.

Determining the location relative to buildings and trees

The location of the greenhouse in relation to existing outbuildings and trees also plays an important role. So, no shadow from the house or trees should fall on the greenhouse. If you place the greenhouse close to a tree, then foliage will accumulate on the roof of the greenhouse, preventing the flow of sunlight from penetrating into the greenhouse. You will have to constantly ensure that the roof is clean.

Having examined the main nuances of the location of the greenhouse, we suggest returning to our main topic. Let's talk about the advantages of using polycarbonate, as well as the features of its choice.

Features of polycarbonate greenhouses

Traditionally, the greenhouse is covered with glass or polyethylene. These materials are affordable. However, if we compare them with polycarbonate construction, the latter has a clear advantage in durability. There is a very high risk that the polyethylene will break. Moreover, you don’t need to make any special efforts for this. Glass is fragile and may break. Of course, polycarbonate can be broken, it just has more advantages in terms of strength and practicality. If glass breaks, shards can get into your eyes and exposed skin. Moreover, fragments that fall into the ground are very dangerous, because a large amount of work in the ground is done manually.

The advantage of such a greenhouse is that you can make it yourself. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of polycarbonate greenhouses:

Which polycarbonate to choose for a greenhouse

The market offers polycarbonate in different designs. Our goal is to select the most suitable material for the greenhouse. This is an important stage, because polycarbonate plays an important role in obtaining a good harvest. So, when starting to make a choice, it is worth remembering the following:

• It is not uncommon to find low-quality polycarbonate. The worst thing is that it is sold under the guise of branded materials.
• There is lightweight polycarbonate on sale - it has thin walls. Its use is cost-effective in warm climates. With sudden changes in temperature, such polycarbonate will become brittle. Moreover, it will not provide sufficient strength to the greenhouse.
• Often the parameters indicated on the packaging do not correspond to reality. For example, if the sheet thickness is stated to be 4 mm, it may turn out to be only 3.5 mm. But it is not recommended to buy such polycarbonate.
• If you want to purchase wear-resistant polycarbonate, then weight plays an important role in its choice. A normal and high-quality sheet of standard sizes will weigh about 10 kg. Lightweight version - 8.5 kg, or even less. The latter are not highly durable - they are fragile.
• High-quality polycarbonate always has a mark on the method and method of its installation. The presence of a special protective film against ultraviolet rays also indicates quality.
• High-quality polycarbonate is elastic and easy to work with. It shouldn't be too fragile.

If you are planning a large purchase of material, you can ask for documentation and a quality certificate. Usually the weight, size, manufacturer and other necessary data are indicated there.

New polycarbonate must be packaged in polyethylene. The side protected from ultraviolet rays and the edge of the elements must be marked accordingly. If you don't have it, it's better not to buy plastic.

Cellular polycarbonate is most often used to construct a greenhouse. And this is logical, because it is relatively transparent, transmits up to 88% of light, and these indicators do not decrease during operation. If we talk about impact strength, it is 100 or more times greater than that of glass. Let us also highlight other features of this type of polycarbonate:

1. The thermal conductivity of a material with a thickness of 4 mm is 2 times greater than that of glass. Which saves energy up to 30%. High thermal insulation is achieved due to the presence of an air gap.
2. The material is self-extinguishing, so it is considered fireproof.
3. Easy to install. The greenhouse can be given any shape.
4. The material is resistant to various atmospheric conditions. Recommended for use at temperatures ranging from –40°C to +120°C. During operation, it does not lose its qualities.

Now let's pay attention to the appropriate thickness of the material for the greenhouse. The optimal thickness is 8 mm. The thicker the polycarbonate, the larger the pitch allowed in the sheathing. Thin material has a lower price, but the lathing must be done in small increments, plus its impact resistance is lower.

So, when choosing polycarbonate, consider the following recommendations:

• for greenhouses – up to 4 mm;
• for a small greenhouse - 6 mm;
• for the average greenhouse area - 8 mm;
• if the greenhouse has a large vertical part, then the recommended thickness is 10 mm;
• in case of large spans, a material with a thickness of 16 mm is recommended.

An important factor is the choice of material density. For a greenhouse it should be 800 g/m2. You can even determine the density visually. If, in a lying position, the sheets do not look skewed, do not have bends or other deformations, then the polycarbonate is of sufficient density. But it is best to ask for documentation with technical specifications.

Which is better – ready-made or homemade?

If you don’t like to do things yourself or don’t have time at all, then the ideal option would be to buy a ready-made greenhouse. You will purchase a complete kit, which includes a frame, fasteners, cover, etc. However, such greenhouses have a number of disadvantages that cannot be ignored. Factory-produced greenhouses often do not comply with stated GOST standards. As a rule, such frames are less stable. Therefore, before installing them, you should make a good foundation and further strengthen the structure.

The metal frame often corrodes, and very quickly the need for repairs arises. It's a completely different matter when everything is made independently. By doing everything from scratch, you will never skimp on consumables.

Below we suggest watching a video where a version of a ready-made greenhouse is provided.

Video: the process of assembling a finished greenhouse from a metal profile

Options for polycarbonate greenhouse frames

The frame can be made from different building materials. Each of them differs in quality, which affects the duration of operation. For example, a greenhouse can be made based on:

• profile pipe;
• wood;
• galvanized profile;
• polypropylene pipe, etc.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is the best, because each has undeniable advantages:

What you should pay attention to when determining the frame design:

• Plan the correct location of the windows. For normal ventilation, 2 small windows are enough.
• If the greenhouse is large, then ventilation vents should be located every 2 meters.
• It is often necessary to think about organizing lighting, especially if you are growing vegetables for seedlings.
• Correctly calculate the number of sections and arcs in the future frame. Remember, the strength of the frame depends on the profile section. The step between each section should not exceed 700 mm. Although today you can find ready-made greenhouses with a pitch between arcs of up to 2000 mm. This is not the most durable option.
• Select the correct thickness of polycarbonate. We discussed the subtleties of this process above.

So, these are the main nuances that should be taken into account when forming the frame design.

Foundation manufacturing options

Like any other building, the greenhouse must also be located on a foundation. It just may differ in the material used. It is worth noting that the base for the greenhouse must perform several important functions, including:

• providing a reliable foundation for the frame;
• preventing direct contact of the frame wall with the ground, which provokes heat loss of up to 10%;
• preventing moisture from penetrating into the greenhouse;
• preventing moles, shrews and other “uninvited guests” from entering the greenhouse.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with several types of foundations that are successfully used when constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse:

• tape;
• wood;
• columnar.

We offer step-by-step construction instructions for each type of foundation. Of course, you may know other methods, but we will describe the most accessible and common ones.

Tape

This type of base has a high degree of strength. You can mount a frame for a greenhouse on it from any building material. In addition, it provides excellent protection against the penetration of cold and excess moisture. The production of such a foundation is carried out in several successive stages, which are reflected in the table:

That's all, the strip foundation is ready. Depending on the type of frame, you can immediately insert metal embedded rods into the concrete, which will stick up. But this depends on the type of frame chosen. After pouring the concrete, it is recommended to cover it with polyethylene. This is especially necessary if the weather is sunny and hot outside. The concrete will gradually dry out.

Wood

If we talk about the simplest and most inexpensive foundation, then it is wood. Such a foundation will allow you to move the greenhouse to another location if necessary. However, remember the important disadvantage of such a base - the wood is subject to corrosion. The wooden foundation is based on timber. Manufacturing work consists of the following:

It is important to highlight some nuances here. In the method of laying a wooden foundation described above, the timber has direct contact with the ground. For this reason, the timber must be treated with a special anti-corrosion mastic. But this is short-lived, so after some time the base will have to be repaired. To eliminate this problem, some build a wooden base on a metal column foundation. How to do this, see the prepared video materials.

Video: marking and preparing the base for a wooden foundation

Video: what will happen if you don’t measure the diagonal when marking the foundation

Video: instructions for making a wooden foundation

Columnar

This type of greenhouse base is combined with a strip base. We will give instructions for making a columnar foundation on metal pipes. Wooden beams will be laid on top. All instructions are presented in the table:

Today, there are other technologies for making a polycarbonate foundation for a greenhouse. You should choose the most suitable option. At the same time, always take into account the fact that polycarbonate itself does not have much weight. Therefore, the strength of the foundation is determined based on the weight of the frame. It is clear that if it is a metal frame, then a stronger foundation is needed. Next, we suggest looking at several options for making a frame for a greenhouse.

Greenhouse frame

As for the frame of the greenhouse, it can be made of several materials. For example, the simplest one is a wooden beam. More expensive technologies are also used, including aluminum profiles, metal pipes and metal profiles. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making frames using different building materials.

First of all, it is worth considering the features of this material. Is it so good for making a greenhouse? A metal profile pipe is a pipe with a rectangular cross-section. This material is widely used due to the following technical characteristics:

• the load is distributed evenly along the edges, this ensures greater strength of the frame;
• a linear meter has a very affordable price;
• the presence of smooth sides simplifies the installation of polycarbonate;
• The greenhouse made from the profile ends up being quite strong and durable.

Most often, a profile pipe with a cross section of 40×20 or 20×20 mm is used.

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe. What is important to consider

When making a drawing of a frame from a profile pipe, it is important to take into account that the length of rolled profile pipe is limited: 3, 6, 4, 12 m, etc. Knowing the parameters of the future greenhouse, as well as the length of the profile, you can save a lot. How? For example, you can design a drawing to minimize waste. Moreover, the dimensions of the greenhouse can be adjusted to the existing dimensions of the profile pipe.

Note! If you are buying a profile for racks, then it is better to give preference to pipes with a cross-section of 20×40 mm; if we are talking about cross-sections, then pipes of 20×20 mm would be a suitable option.

When making a drawing, be sure to prepare the following elements:

• roof;
• top/bottom trim;
• vertical racks;
• openings for windows and doors;
• additional elements.

The installation step of each rack can reach 1 m.

As for the manufacture of the roof, it is necessary to prepare unique trusses. They can have two slopes or be in the shape of an arch. It all depends on your preferences. But not only that. To create an arched roof, you need to bend the profile pipe using a special pipe bender. As for the gable roof, only welding is necessary.

Note! Among other things, be sure to consider the dimensions of the polycarbonate. For example, find out the width of the sheet and determine exactly where the joint will be.

If you have an arched roof, then take into account the fact that to build a greenhouse about 2 m high, you will need a 12 m profile. You can use this option: buy two 6 m profiles and connect them together.

To form the roof of a greenhouse, a simple option is used. This will also require minimal welding work. So, you need to make cuts with a grinder in suitable places on the pipe and simply bend it. This is the form that appears:

It is extremely important to take accurate measurements and cuts to avoid mistakes. Each segment must be welded together:

A calculation is also made regarding the location of the ventilation window and the door at the end of the frame. Look at the diagram:

There is also a diagram for assembling a greenhouse from a profile pipe, on which all connections are indicated:

Instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame with a gable roof

Now we offer small instructions for making a frame for a greenhouse from a metal profile in the table:

There is a technology by which all the main elements are assembled on a flat horizontal surface. After which the assembled trusses are connected to each other and attached to the foundation.

If you want to give the roof an arc shape, then cut off part of the pipe and, using a pipe bender, bend it to the desired radius. Of course, work needs to be done here. If there is no pipe bender, some home craftsmen make cuts on the pipe and bend it along them. But this method is ineffective; it is better to use a pipe bending device.

We offer several videos on making a greenhouse from a metal profile. At the same time, consider options with a gable roof and in the shape of an arch.

Video: making an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe

Video: making a gable roof from a profile pipe

Wooden frame for a greenhouse: gable and arched

A wooden greenhouse frame has its own characteristics and advantages. Among the positive aspects are the following:

Indeed, wooden greenhouses are an excellent solution. They will fit perfectly into the landscape of your suburban area. Now we propose to consider 2 instructions for making an arched greenhouse and a gable one.

Arched greenhouse made of wooden blocks

The main problem with an arched greenhouse is making the arch out of wood. The manufactured arcs must have high strength. But anyone can make such a greenhouse. You will see this for yourself now.

To begin, prepare the following building material:

• boards 50 mm thick;
• timber 50×50 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal furniture corners.

As for the tools, this is a standard carpentry set, including a hacksaw, hammer, screwdriver, drill, level, tape measure, etc.

We offer you to follow step by step how to make such a greenhouse. It is immediately worth noting that this type of greenhouse is ideally combined with a wooden foundation:

Below are some dimensions. Based on your circumstances, you can replace them with your own, increasing or decreasing the greenhouse design. So, first of all, the most key element is made - the arch or arc. It will consist of many similar elements:

For ease of work, it is first recommended to make a pattern; thick cardboard is suitable for this. After this, take a board 50 mm thick and place your pattern on top of it. Use a marker to transfer its outline onto the board. To reduce waste, place the pattern on the board in the most efficient way.

Having cut the required number of similar elements, you can begin assembling the first layer of the arc. In the provided diagram, 17 such elements were used. In your case there may be more/less.

The elements to form an arc are laid out on a flat surface as shown in the diagram:

Each element must be laid next to each other as tightly as possible and without gaps. The result will be an arc like this:

The second layer of the arc should act as a fastener. Fastening is carried out according to this principle:

Both ends of the board should be in the center of the already fixed element, that is, with a slight offset. All elements are connected to each other with self-tapping screws. To prevent the elements from splitting, it is recommended to drill holes for the screws. But the diameter of the hole must be smaller than the diameter of the mounting screw. This way you will assemble a whole arc. The number of such farms will depend on the footage of the entire greenhouse. The step between them should be no more than one meter.

Note! Once you have made all the finished elements of the greenhouse, you need to treat them with a special antiseptic against rotting. This will prevent them from being destroyed by moisture.

At the next stage, it is necessary to attach the arcs to the foundation. This is done according to this scheme:

Fastening can be done using furniture metal corners. Step by step you will get this frame:

Afterwards, the stiffening ribs must be fixed. For this, a beam with a cross section of 50×50 mm is used. The length of the beam depends on the length of the greenhouse. In the end you should get something like this:

Every summer resident can make a similar frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse on his own. You will end up with a design like this:

Video: an original idea for making an arched greenhouse

Manufacturing technology of a gable wooden greenhouse

Making a greenhouse with a gable roof is much easier. Detailed drawings and diagrams will help here. Thanks to them, it will be easier to collect the necessary building material. The frame design can be based on 50×50 mm bars as supports for a 100×100 mm frame.

It is worth noting that the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse is similar to the sequence of manufacturing a greenhouse from a profile pipe. Only in this case everything is much simpler. Support columns are installed along the perimeter: in the corners of the greenhouse and in increments of up to 1000 mm. For greater strength, a lower frame and an upper one are made; timber is used for this purpose. To ensure the rigidity of the walls of the structure, cross members must be fixed.

The formation of two roof slopes is performed on a flat horizontal surface. Using prepared drawings and diagrams, you can cope with this work quite easily and quickly.

To connect the bars, self-tapping screws, metal corners, and in some cases, nails are used. Below we suggest looking at the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse.

Video: how to make a wooden frame with a gable roof

Greenhouse made of galvanized profile

This material is also used to make a greenhouse. It has many positive aspects, among which the following stand out:

• simple installation;
• a small set of tools for installation;
• galvanization does not corrode;
• the frame does not need to be painted or coated with protective compounds;
• the total weight of the greenhouse will be small, which allows you to save money and build a small foundation;
• unlike a profile pipe, a galvanized profile is cheaper;
• speed of assembly.

The manufacturing process is relatively simple, the description is presented in the table:

To eliminate the unpleasant phenomenon of a broken greenhouse, additionally install a profile diagonally between each rack. Even a strong wind load in this case will not damage the integrity of the greenhouse frame made of galvanized profile.

Note! To make such a frame, a plasterboard profile is often used. Therefore, you can calculate which will cost less.

Video: making a greenhouse from a galvanized profile

Homemade frame made of polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene pipes are successfully used not only for laying water supply systems. They can be used to make homemade greenhouses covered with polycarbonate. This material for this purpose has the following advantages:

• the pipes and components themselves are inexpensive;
• it is possible to move the greenhouse to another place due to the low weight of the structure;
• simple installation, and for work you need a special welding soldering iron and scissors;
• polypropylene does not corrode, the greenhouse will last 20 years or more.

As for the disadvantages, it is light weight. Such a greenhouse will have a strong windage. For this reason, it will be necessary to provide correct and reinforced fastening to the foundation or ground.

So, making such a greenhouse will not take much effort. All work consists of several successive stages:

1. First, let's do the markings.
2. At the corners of the future greenhouse, reinforcement is driven into the ground, and it should protrude from the ground level to a height of up to 500 mm.
3. Afterwards, a pipe is taken and one end is inserted into the fittings sticking out of the ground. It is carefully bent, and the other end is inserted into the opposite section of the reinforcement.

The entire frame of the greenhouse is assembled using this principle. When all the trusses are installed, the cross members must be fixed. This will require special fittings: tees and crosses.

To attach the crossbars, perform the following steps:

1. A pipe is cut at the top of the arch; later a cross or tee will be soldered at the cut site.
2. A plastic cross should be welded onto the cut parts of the pipe (for this work you will need help: one holds the pipe, bending it, and the second solders).
3. It will be necessary to solder crossbars into those with 2 exits from the cross, thus the entire structure will be connected to each other.
4. The end parts of the greenhouse are also cut, and the tees are soldered.

Doors and windows can also be formed from polypropylene pipe. Watch interesting videos. One shows how to assemble such a greenhouse using self-tapping screws, and in the second everything is done using soldering. The polycarbonate is attached to such a greenhouse with self-tapping screws, which is very convenient and quick.

Video: features of making a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes

Fastening polycarbonate to a greenhouse - technology

So, the features of manufacturing the foundation and frame of the greenhouse were considered. As you can see, there are many technologies that differ in complexity of execution, cost of raw materials, and more. Now we have come to the next stage of greenhouse manufacturing - installation/fastening of polycarbonate. First, let's discuss the options for fastening materials.

Ordinary screws will not work here. There are special thermal washers on sale that do not damage polycarbonate, but on the contrary, securely hold the material. Special sealing thermal washers are used. They have the following positive aspects:

• The ability to easily attach polycarbonate to any type of sheathing.
• Moisture and cold air will not penetrate inside through the bolts, since their design involves the use of a special rubber gasket.
• The thermal washer allows the polycarbonate to expand in extreme heat without destroying it.

Neoprene material is used as a seal. It's quite soft. If the temperature regime changes, then the maximum that happens to neoprene is compression, but it does not lose its tightness. That is, the polycarbonate sheet will move, but in no case warp. As for the self-tapping screw, it is a type of “beetle”, that is, the tip of the self-tapping screw resembles a drill. After tightening the screw, the cap is closed with a plastic plug, which gives an aesthetic appearance. Plus, the self-tapping screw will be protected from direct moisture, which eliminates its corrosion.

There are also special profiles for attaching polycarbonate on sale. They can be of different types, for example, H-shaped, ridge - RP, one-piece connecting - HP and detachable - NSR, end - UP, detachable connecting - SP, wall - FP.

An aluminum fastening system is also known. Of course, this technology is supported by the high strength and durability of the entire greenhouse structure. The fastening aluminum profile is available in lengths of 6 m and thicknesses from 6 to 25 mm.

Video: types of fasteners for polycarbonate

Features of polycarbonate installation

In fact, it does not matter at all what position the polycarbonate sheet will be placed in: vertically, at an angle, horizontally, etc. Special attention should be paid to sealing the joints. If an aluminum profile is used for fastening, it has a special rubber seal. Polycarbonate sheets are joined together to form a hermetically sealed joint.

When screwing a self-tapping screw through polycarbonate, do not overtighten it. The sealing rubber should lightly press the sheet to the frame. Special attention should be paid to the edges and ends of the polycarbonate. They should be framed with a special protective plastic profile.

If, after cutting the sheet, you find burrs, uneven and very rough edges, then all this must be removed. Otherwise, it will not be possible to ensure sufficient sealing. Additionally, we suggest watching videos that clearly show the process of attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Video: technology for attaching polycarbonate to a greenhouse

Communications in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Building a greenhouse is one thing, providing it with the necessary communications is quite another. Among the main ones are the following:

1. Lighting.
2. Ventilation.
3. Heating.
4. Watering.

This is especially important if you plan to grow vegetables year-round. If your work involves this, then you should think about automating most of the processes. This will significantly save your time, although you will first have to raise a lot of money. We recommend that you watch the videos in these subsections. We are confident that this information will help you make the right decision.

Artificial lighting as a complement to natural

We already said at the beginning of this article that the correct location of the greenhouse will save you money. If the chosen place is well lit by sunlight, then this is a huge plus. However, some crops are sensitive to even a slight lack of light, and this can cause negative consequences affecting their development.

To organize lighting, lamps are used:

• conventional incandescent;
• high pressure mercury;
• high pressure sodium;
• luminescent;
• halogen;
• LED.

Let's consider the features of these types of lamps in terms of their use for lighting in a polycarbonate greenhouse:

Subtleties of organizing wiring in a greenhouse

When running electrical cables in a greenhouse, it is important to consider one characteristic feature. There is always high humidity in the greenhouse. Therefore, the wires should be reliably protected from moisture. This also applies to the watering process. Therefore, the wires should be placed in special boxes. It should be mounted higher from the ground, on the ceiling and walls.

To ensure the most beneficial development of plants, the lighting process inside the greenhouse can be automated. This will cost you at first, but you will experience significant savings later on.

Video: features of lighting in a greenhouse

Heating is inextricably linked with lighting

Heating a greenhouse is directly related to lighting. Therefore, if you decide to carry out the necessary communications, then heating should be in the foreground. Today, several heating methods are known. For example, stove heating. To implement it, you need to build a special vestibule in the greenhouse. The main disadvantage is the low efficiency and labor intensity of the heating process. As for modern technology, this includes water heating and electric heating. It is distinguished by its high efficiency. Plus, it’s quite possible to automate the process using special automation.

There is an interesting technology for heating the ground, this is a kind of “warm floors”. Soil is an excellent conductor of heat, so this technology is in great demand, but requires considerable financial investment. We have prepared several videos on the effectiveness of one or another heating method in a greenhouse.

Video: features of organizing heating in a greenhouse

Ventilation – automatic and manual

Ventilation also affects plant productivity. Today there are several ways to organize ventilation in a polycarbonate greenhouse. The simplest is mechanical, that is, manual. For this purpose, the frame is provided with vents (small windows). If necessary, the vents are opened to allow a change of air. Windows for ventilation can be located at the end of the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is large, there may be several such windows. In principle, this method is suitable for summer residents who live in their country house during the period of growing a particular crop.

If your financial capabilities allow, then it is quite possible to build an automatic ventilation system. It comes in several types:

1. Electric.
2. Biometric.
3. Hydraulic.

Video: organizing ventilation in a greenhouse

Irrigation - water, the source of life

Another important communication is watering. The irrigation method depends on the crop being grown. For example, tomatoes should not be watered from above; water should immediately flow into the root system. Plants especially need watering in the summer. With all this, when organizing watering, you should avoid excess water and its lack, adhering to the golden mean.

This can be achieved through the manufacture of an irrigation system, which can be of the following design:

• sprinkler system;
• subsurface irrigation;
• drip irrigation.

Let's look at the features of each of them.

Sprinkler system. The simplest method is considered to be precisely this method of irrigation, where water comes from above. It is implemented using a shower spray. There is also a fountain sprayer. In this case, water is sprayed using a rotating spray head. Among the positive aspects of such watering are:

• increasing air humidity in the greenhouse;
• imitation of rain irrigation;
• high productivity;
• uniform watering of plants.

Subsoil irrigation. With this type of watering, the roots are immediately fed with moisture. Channels are created in the ground through which water flows. It is evenly distributed throughout the root system of certain plants. Plastic pipes can also be laid to a depth of up to 350 mm. A plastic film is spread at the bottom, then a perforated pipe is placed and the whole thing is covered with soil on top.

Among the positive aspects of this type of watering are:

• significant reduction in weed growth;
• slight moistening of the top layer of soil;
• regular replenishment of the plant’s root system with moisture.

Drip irrigation. Well, the last method of watering is drip. Based on its name, it becomes clear that water is supplied in drops. At the same time, it goes directly to the roots. This solution has a number of positive aspects, for example, water is used rationally, the formation of fungal diseases is excluded, etc.

Each of the described irrigation systems has its own characteristics, and all of them can be automated. It will be necessary to purchase sensors and all kinds of automation.

Video: watering a greenhouse, how best to do it

So, the question of how to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself was discussed in detail. If you want to add anything, you can leave reviews and comments on this article. In addition to everything, we offer a series of photographs of ready-made greenhouses. Perhaps they will come in handy when building your own polycarbonate greenhouse.

Photo: options for ready-made polycarbonate greenhouses

Greenhouse made of polycarbonate and metal frame Greenhouse made of polycarbonate with plastic windows and doors In a polycarbonate greenhouse you can carry out the necessary communications

Every gardener can independently and correctly, and most importantly, economically and quickly produce a greenhouse structure at his dacha. Construction requires a good plan, competent step-by-step instructions and minimal experience in handling basic construction tools.

Advantages of making your own greenhouse

Currently, in the conditions of home and country vegetable growing, a huge number of varieties of greenhouse structures, both factory-produced and handicraft, are used. You can make a greenhouse of any size yourself.

What a homemade greenhouse or hothouse building will be like depends largely on the materials available to the summer resident. The undeniable advantages of this design are its low cost and the possibility of construction at a convenient time and time frame. In addition, you can make quite unusual or original, but very functional greenhouses or greenhouses with your own hands.

Winter and summer designs

It is quite possible to build both winter and summer versions yourself. However, before making a project and bringing it to life, you should understand how these types of greenhouses differ and why the design requires additional costs.

• The main difference lies in the material from which the structure is built. For example, polyethylene film is used in the manufacture of summer structures, but it is not suitable for winter ones. As a covering for a winter greenhouse, you should choose high-quality glass or translucent polycarbonate. Thin sheet polycarbonate can also be used in the manufacture of a summer greenhouse.
• If we are building a winter greenhouse, then it is very important to pay special attention to the foundation, since this part has a direct impact on the efficiency of the heating system.
• The frame of a winter greenhouse building should be as powerful and reliable as possible, and for a summer structure it can be made lighter.

These are the most important seasonal features that need to be taken into account to create a high-quality and durable greenhouse.

Main types of greenhouses

Most often, greenhouse structures are designed for the cultivation of a certain type of plant, taking into account their botanical characteristics, including lighting and temperature conditions inside.

• Single-pitched greenhouse the roof is an ideal option for creating a winter garden or greenhouse, due to the presence of an internal passage into the building. In this case, the greenhouse will be easy to maintain regardless of the time of year. It is best to install a lean-to greenhouse on the south side of the house.
• Gable greenhouses or “house” structures have proven themselves well in most regions of our country and deservedly belong to the category of the most common classic protected ground structures.

• teardrop-shaped options very durable, have excellent light transmission and do not retain snow mass on the surface, but they are difficult to install, so they are extremely rarely made independently at home.
• Dome view not only looks original, but also has some functional characteristics, including the possibility of construction in earthquake-prone areas, as well as reducing the consumption of building materials. When creating such a structure, special attention should be paid to its high-quality sealing and insulation.

• Polygonal design combines good light transmittance, attractive appearance, and high resistance to gusty winds. It should be taken into account that the installation of such a structure is quite complex and proper organization of space is necessary for uniform heating of the air masses.
• Dutch greenhouses are distinguished by reliability and durability. Sloping walls make it possible to maximize lighting, which has a positive effect on the yield of crops grown. In addition, the construction of such a greenhouse will be inexpensive.

Which greenhouse to choose (video)

In recent years, tunnel structures called “booths” have become popular. This design perfectly protects plants from bad weather and gusty winds, and as a result, with minimal investment in construction, it is possible to obtain a stable and high yield. This allows us to evaluate this option as optimal for construction at the dacha with our own hands. Most often, a tunnel greenhouse is used for growing peppers and tomatoes.

Collapsible and stationary products

All greenhouses erected and used on household plots and garden plots are divided into stationary and collapsible (folding).

The folding greenhouse began to be used in home garden vegetable growing relatively recently. Its basis is a lightweight, collapsible frame, and its small dimensions allow the greenhouse to be moved to a new location if necessary. A small structure is quite cheap for summer residents, and it is not difficult to assemble it yourself.

A stationary greenhouse, on the contrary, has been used by vegetable growers for many years. The design features of such a building include the presence of a metal frame on which the covering is installed and a foundation base. Most summer residents prefer just such greenhouses, due to their reliability and durability, as well as ease of use in the structure and ease of maintenance.

Choice of material for the frame

The frame base and door must be rigid and strong, which will allow them to withstand repeated seasonal temperature fluctuations, as well as wind and a fairly large weight of snow mass. At the same time, the number of massive elements that reduce illumination should be kept to a minimum. The implementation of a collapsible structure involves the use of materials with low weight and ease of dismantling work. Today, several types of materials differing in characteristics and price are used to create the frame of greenhouses.

• Tree is the most accessible and cheapest option that does not require special skills or the use of professional equipment. The wooden frame is environmentally friendly and lightweight, but is susceptible to rotting and therefore needs to be treated with antiseptics.
• Aluminum allows you to create lightweight and durable structures with a high level of rigidity that can withstand significant loads. To connect the parts, a household riveter is used or nuts are mounted in specially drilled holes. The popularity of the option is somewhat reduced by the high price of the aluminum frame.

• Plastic has such unique characteristics as lightness and strength, as well as resistance to rotting and corrosive changes. The flexibility of the material helps to create structures of different shapes, which is especially important when constructing arched or gable greenhouses. However, it should be taken into account that the significant lightness of plastic requires mandatory attachment to the foundation or soil.
• Steel used to create a greenhouse frame quite often and requires a strip foundation. Galvanized steel frames are characterized by resistance to corrosion, which increases the service life of the greenhouse.

• Profile for drywall successfully combines such advantages as light weight and ease of installation work. As practice shows, a frame made of metal profiles turns out to be easy to use, durable, dismountable and quite affordable. Perfect for creating gable and single-pitch buildings, as well as arched structures and Mittlaider greenhouses.
• Window frames as a material for a greenhouse frame, they allow you to create a structure with acceptable thermal insulation performance in the shortest possible time and with significant savings. However, one should take into account the fragility of such a frame: the average service life, even when wood is processed, does not exceed five years.

Other materials for creating a frame are not popular in home greenhouse construction.

Types of foundation for a greenhouse

The low weight and large windage of a greenhouse structure often causes the structure to overturn under the influence of gusty winds, so the frame should be installed on the most reliable and durable foundation. The choice of foundation type depends in most cases on the weight of the structure.

• Brick foundation easy to install, quite reliable and suitable for most greenhouses. However, it should be borne in mind that the manufacture of such a foundation is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process.
• Stone base very reliable and durable. A properly executed stone foundation can support heavy metal structures made of rolled profiles and fiberglass. Most often used when creating permanent greenhouses and is not a budget option.

• Concrete foundation is one of the inexpensive and quickly erected capital foundations and involves the creation of formwork, subsequent pouring of concrete mixture and installation of rod anchors for fastening the frame.
• The simplest and most affordable option is wooden base. However, the operation of such a foundation made of boards or timber, even when treated with high-quality antiseptic compounds, is limited to five seasons, which makes its installation under a permanent frame impractical.

Greenhouse covering materials

Glass, polyethylene film or translucent cellular polycarbonate can be used as coating material. Each type of material has advantages, but is also not without its disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing.

• Film It is one of the cheapest and most accessible materials, but in terms of durability it is not able to compete with polycarbonate or glass. Even the highest quality film coating should be changed every three years. An arched greenhouse is most often covered with two layers of film at once, which allows us to provide plants with the most comfortable conditions for growth and development. The material has a good level of light transmittance, but under the influence of sunlight it quickly wears out and light transmittance indicators decrease. Disadvantages also include the formation of condensation on the inside of the coating.

• Glass refers to traditional materials for greenhouses and is characterized as a durable coating with a high level of light transmission and good thermal insulation. When using it to create protected ground structures, you should remember the rapid heating of glass and the significant weight of the material. In addition, it is important to consider that replacing broken or damaged glass will not be cheap.
• Polycarbonate It is a hard translucent plastic with a cellular structure. The material is characterized by durability, a high level of impact resistance and good light transmittance, as well as excellent flexibility, which makes it possible to use it in arched and tunnel-type structures.

Sometimes other covering materials are used. Some amateur vegetable growers perform a combined covering of greenhouses, in which the roof of the structure is covered with film and the side parts of the frame are glazed.

When a foundation is not needed

The foundation is the basis that provides a high level of stability, integrity, and maximum strength of the greenhouse building. However, there are types of protected ground structures that do not require the creation of a foundation. These are lightweight, portable and collapsible structures, the weight of which is insignificant, and protection against windage is achieved by attaching the greenhouse to the ground using pegs.

Schemes and drawings

Before you start building a greenhouse or greenhouse structure with your own hands, you need to correctly draw up drawings and diagrams of the structure. Greenhouse drawings can be varied. Currently, you can freely find diagrams of Soviet classic wooden models, as well as modern and rational diagrams of the Mittleider greenhouse.

The choice of a diagram and drawing of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure should be based on the requirements, features and characteristics of the materials used in the independent construction of the structure, as well as the purposes of using the structure of the protected soil in the conditions of homestead or dacha plant growing.

You can create a diagram of the future structure yourself or use ready-made options. The second option is more preferable and can reduce the cost of time and effort.

Stages of making a greenhouse with your own hands

Independent production of a greenhouse or greenhouse structure includes several sequential steps:

• choosing the type of structure;
• creation of drawings and diagrams;
• frame manufacturing;
• carrying out excavation work, including the construction of a foundation;
• installation of the supporting frame;
• installation of translucent coating.

The features of each stage depend on the type of materials used, as well as the characteristics of the structure itself, including size and season of use.

Greenhouse equipment

Creating a microclimate favorable for the growth and development of plants in most cases depends on the use of special greenhouse equipment. In order to increase the productivity of cultivated crops and the quality of the harvest, it is necessary to take care in advance of modernizing the protected ground space. Growing vegetables, berries or green crops in protected soil involves installing heating, watering, additional lighting, and ventilation systems.

• Irrigation system using drip or subsurface irrigation equipment can relieve gardeners and gardeners from heavy manual labor, and also saves time and water.
• Heating can be carried out in several ways, and the choice of equipment depends on the communications system that exists on the personal or garden plot. You can choose stove, electric or gas heating.

• Ventilation very important at all stages of growth and development of garden crops. It helps protect plants from overheating and ensures complete air exchange. For natural ventilation, open doors and vents are sufficient, and if it is necessary to increase air circulation, an exhaust or circulation fan should be installed.
• Additional lighting necessary not only for seedlings, but also for almost any garden plants cultivated in conditions of too short daylight hours. Special lamps make it possible to provide the crop with optimal comfortable illumination in early spring, as well as in winter and late autumn.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands (video)

Today, many gardeners cannot imagine their plot without a greenhouse. And for the first time in our country, the famous scientist K. Timiryazev grew crops in this way. His merit was the construction in 1872 of a growing house for cultivated plants on the territory of the Petrovsky Academy of Sciences. This prototype of a modern greenhouse made it possible in subsequent years, right up to the present day, to develop various types of protected ground structures that make it possible to lengthen the fruiting period of plants and improve the quality and volume of the harvest.

Unfortunately, not the entire territory of Russia is conducive to growing your own vegetables and fruits for many months. In most climatic zones of the country, the dacha season is extremely short, while many people strive to grow as many crops as possible on their plot for subsequent harvesting. In this connection, gardeners and gardeners willingly use greenhouses, with the help of which the growing season is extended, which makes it possible to harvest an earlier and more abundant harvest. In some cases, if you have a well-built greenhouse, self-grown crops can be consumed all year round.

Of course, for these purposes it is necessary to take into account a number of features, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Peculiarities

A greenhouse built with one’s own hands always warms the gardener’s soul. The design can be of very different sizes and shapes, and homemade greenhouses are no worse in use and functionality. The device can be easily viewed in diagrams and drawings; materials for manufacturing may be different. Often, fiberglass reinforcement is used as a frame; there are also no problems with removable covering material - mainly polyethylene film, glass or polycarbonate. Taking into account all these features, it is possible to erect such a structure on a site in one weekend, and homemade buildings are in no way inferior in quality to those purchased in a store.

Advantages and disadvantages

Convenient homemade greenhouses are very popular among summer residents. An undoubted advantage is the fact that a self-made greenhouse at the dacha will be relatively cheap. A budget greenhouse can be made from different materials; the most important thing is to equip it with an opening roof and take care of the quality of lighting for the plants. Speaking about the disadvantages, of course, it should be taken into account that you will have to spend time studying the types and designs, as well as familiarizing yourself with the drawings and construction plans at the dacha.

Kinds

Greenhouses are designed taking into account the botanical characteristics of the plant species for whose needs the greenhouse is being built. These also include the amount of light transmitted and the temperature inside. The greenhouse can be either year-round or used during a certain season. In general, all types of greenhouses are suitable for growing a variety of crops - be it Chinese cabbage or flowers.

At first glance, greenhouses can be divided into the following categories:

• single-pitched;
• gable;
• teardrop-shaped;

• dome;
• polygonal;
• Dutch.

• In most cases, pitched roofs are used in the construction of greenhouses or winter gardens, since this type of building has a passage. As a result, you can easily enter the premises without regard to weather conditions. This type of greenhouse is best installed on the south side of a residential building.
• Greenhouses with gable roofs are very popular in our country and are currently the most common design.
• A teardrop-shaped greenhouse is a very durable structure, perfectly transmits sunlight, does not retain precipitation in the form of snow on the surface, but it is quite difficult to install, so such greenhouses are rarely made independently.
• The dome greenhouse has an impressive appearance and does not require a lot of materials, but its main advantage is that, due to its design features, it can be installed in areas with seismic hazard. The main tasks during construction are good sealing and high-quality insulation.

• Polygonal greenhouses are pleasing to the eye, transmit light well and are not afraid of gusty winds. The difficulty during installation is that it is necessary to carefully organize the space in order to evenly distribute the heat inside.
• The Dutch version of greenhouses is reliable and durable. Due to the sloping walls, sunlight penetrates inside, which can significantly increase the yield. Among other things, this option is also quite budget-friendly.
• Recently, the so-called “booths” - a greenhouse that looks like a tunnel - have become widespread among summer residents. Most often it is erected for growing tomatoes and peppers. This type of greenhouse is functional, convenient, does not require large expenses, and allows you to consistently obtain a good harvest, which allows us to call it the optimal type of self-construction on the site.

Greenhouses are also divided according to the principle of movement:

• folding;
• stationary.

Folding greenhouses began to gain popularity relatively recently. Their advantage is that the lightweight frame can be easily folded and moved to another place in the garden if necessary. At the same time, the greenhouse itself is very ergonomic and has a low cost, which is what deserves the attention of summer residents.

Stationary greenhouses, on the contrary, have long become classics of the genre. To install a structure of this type, you will need an underground foundation and a metal frame. Many people have long preferred this type of greenhouse, since over many years of operation in a wide variety of conditions, these structures have gained fame as strong and durable devices. There are no particular difficulties in installing such a greenhouse; maintaining it is also quite easy.

Greenhouses can also be divided according to the type of initial characteristics - these types of greenhouses are named after the name of their creator:

• greenhouse according to Kurdyumov;
• greenhouse according to "Mitlider".

Kurdyumov's greenhouse is an autonomous unit, otherwise it is called “smart”. This design is distinguished by the ability to automatically maintain the temperature inside itself; a special advantage is the presence of drip irrigation of plants, which does not require human intervention. This type of structure supports the possibility of natural restoration of soil in beds or containers with plants. Mitlider greenhouses are considered a special subspecies of greenhouses. Its distinctive features are know-how in indoor air ventilation systems, the special arrangement of the frame - beams and spacers create a durable structure for the covering material. Typically, such greenhouses are located from east to west, which opens up wide opportunities for plants to perceive sunlight.

Natural boards are usually used as the main material for a Mittleider greenhouse., which allows you to “breathe” and prevents the formation of condensation. As a rule, such greenhouses are large in size, which provides an additional opportunity to create a special microclimate for the plants inside. Typically, a greenhouse looks like a low structure with a gable roof with a difference in height. Another possible option is an arched building with a two-level roof.

Another option for greenhouses is a three-row greenhouse. As a rule, such buildings occupy a medium or large area; the beds in them are located in three levels, with two passages located between them.

A farm greenhouse consists of a metal frame over which a film covering is stretched. This type of greenhouse is very popular among the population because it is low cost, moisture-proof and resistant to environmental influences.

Many summer residents fell in love with the spherical greenhouse for its unusual appearance and excellent transmission of sunlight.

Characteristics

When choosing consumables for future construction, be sure to pay attention to what time of year the greenhouse will be primarily used.

Winter greenhouses must be equipped with a heating system, it is better to install them close to the heating system of the house. In another case, as additional equipment, you can install a stove in the greenhouse room, but this will create additional difficulties - the stove requires additional attention, it needs to be heated and, most importantly, to ensure that it does not overheat, which is fraught with temperature fluctuations. A winter greenhouse must be installed on a solid foundation; among other things, this type of construction requires additional strengthening of the frame and roof to avoid possible damage due to heavy snowfalls.

There is also the opportunity to build a so-called “thermos greenhouse” on the site - this structure can boast of being particularly durable, since its foundation goes two meters into the ground. However, installing such a structure has a number of additional difficulties - it is necessary to dig a pit, the foundation must be separately reinforced to avoid deformation, thermal blocks are usually used as a material for walls, which will subsequently need to be insulated. All this is quite expensive, so such greenhouses are rarely found on personal plots.

Summer greenhouses in the vast majority of cases consist of a frame on which a polyethylene film is stretched. This option for external cladding is the most budget-friendly, and with careful use, the film is quite capable of lasting two seasons.

Creating the simplest greenhouse on your summer cottage with your own hands requires certain preparatory work.

The first thing to take care of is preparing the site for construction. Try to choose an area that is as level as possible; it is also highly desirable that there are no obstacles to the sun’s rays. Next, the site is properly compacted. If a tree is chosen as the base, then the prepared boards are treated with an antiseptic solution and knocked down around the perimeter. Reinforcement is installed in the corners of the boxes as additional reinforcement. If for some reason it is not possible to allocate a separate place for the construction of a greenhouse, an alternative option would be to adjoin one wall of the greenhouse to any building - it could be a residential building or some kind of utility room.

When choosing materials for the frame, it is necessary to take into account all their characteristics. We must not forget that the frame itself and the doors must have special strength so that the structure cannot be damaged by winds, temperature fluctuations and snow masses during the winter period. None of the frame elements should be massive and prevent the penetration of light. If a collapsible structure is intended, it should consist of lightweight materials and be able to be dismantled without additional effort.

Frames for greenhouses can be made of the following materials.

• Tree– the most environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material that does not require the use of any professional equipment and does not require specialized skills during the work. Since wood tends to rot, special attention should be paid to its pre-treatment.
• Aluminum profiles involve the creation of a rigid but light frame, while it is durable. This material has a higher cost; its use requires the use of equipment to fasten the parts together.
• Plastic(as well as metal-plastic) parts have a low specific gravity, are quite durable, and are not subject to external influences such as rotting or corrosive changes. Due to its flexibility, it is possible to change the shape of the parts, which provides ample opportunities for creating greenhouses with arches or two slopes. But it is necessary to take into account that plastic elements require mandatory connection to the foundation or soil.

• Steel frames are also quite widespread, but they require a strip foundation. If the elements are galvanized, they will last longer as they are not subject to rust and corrosion.
• Drywall It is a successful combination of light weight material and ease of work. Practice shows that a frame made of this type of material is inexpensive, easy to use, lasts a long time and is easy to disassemble. It is used to perfectly create gable and arched greenhouses, as well as Mittlaider greenhouses.

Sometimes window frames are used as frames - which are characterized by excellent thermal insulation and relative ease of installation. However, it is worth considering their relative fragility - even with careful care, their service life is unlikely to exceed five years.

After choosing a suitable location, the next step in the greenhouse construction process is choosing a suitable foundation. Its type directly depends on the weight of the planned structure, since in most cases the greenhouse frame weighs little, and the covering material additionally adds windage to the building, which often causes destruction due to strong gusts of wind.

• A brick foundation is easy to install, reliable and quite suitable for most greenhouses. But it is necessary to take into account that laying a brick foundation requires specific skills and is quite expensive.
• Stone foundations are rightfully the most durable and strong. You can install heavy metal frames on it. This option cannot be called budgetary; as a rule, foundations for permanent greenhouses are created from stone.

• Concrete is inexpensive and hardens quite quickly, but requires the creation of formwork and frame fastenings.
• Wood is often used as a foundation, but it is worth considering that a wooden foundation is not suitable for capital construction, since it is unlikely to last longer than five years even with the most careful care.
• In some cases, when constructing a greenhouse, it is quite possible to do without a foundation. We are talking about small portable greenhouses, the windage of which is reduced by attaching them directly to the ground with small pegs.

When choosing a coating material, it is necessary to take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of different types of materials.

Basically, the following options are used:

• polyethylene film;
• glass;
• polycarbonate

The most affordable type of covering material is stretch film, however, it cannot boast of durability and even the highest quality coatings require replacement every three years. A greenhouse with arches or bows is usually covered with two layers of film, which creates excellent conditions for the plants inside the building. The material perfectly transmits sunlight, but for the same reason it is subject to rapid wear and, as a result, a decrease in light transmittance. In addition, very often condensation forms on the inner surface, which can also be attributed to the disadvantages of this type of coating. There are also options for polyethylene film, additionally equipped with reinforcement. This option is stronger, more resistant to gusts of wind and will last longer.

Glass can safely be classified as a traditionally used material when making greenhouses with your own hands. Glass coatings are durable and have excellent thermal insulation, but it should be remembered that glass heats up very quickly and at the same time weighs quite a lot. Replacing broken glass is a particular challenge.

Polycarbonate is a type of hard, transparent plastic, the structure of which is a material with large cells. It has sufficient impact resistance and light transmittance, and is very flexible, so it is suitable for constructing greenhouses with an arched vault or in the form of a tunnel. Since this type of coating consists of air-filled cells, it can be argued that it is the most heat-insulating among all possible options.

When considering this type of covering for a potential greenhouse, also consider the following disadvantages:

• when exposed to sunlight, the material will inevitably deteriorate;
• When carrying out installation work, do not forget that polycarbonate tends to expand greatly when heated;
• in the absence of protective elements at the attachment points, the honeycombs of the material will quickly fill with dust or mold, which will render the coating unusable.

When fastening, also consider the following features:

• install the material in such a way that water can drain along the longitudinal strips from the inside;
• there is an ultraviolet filter on one side of the material - this side should be located outside the greenhouse;
• fasten the polycarbonate on specialized self-tapping screws with a thermal washer on them, pre-drill holes in the sheets.

Also take note of the following rules:

• Only transparent polycarbonate is suitable as a covering material. Despite the great aesthetic appeal of the colored one, it transmits the sun's rays much worse, which can lead to the greenhouse not fulfilling its intended purpose.
• Be sure to check the presence of a layer with a UV filter.
• Choose the layer thickness depending on the season in which the greenhouse will be used. In summer and autumn, the thickness of the sheets should be approximately 10-15 mm, in winter - at least 15 mm. Also, this value directly correlates with the strength of the frame - the greater the thickness, the stronger the supporting structure should be.
• When connecting sheets, use special profiles; the use of nails is strictly prohibited.
• Sheets cannot be overlapped.
• Pay attention to the components and do not try to save money on them - the use of an end profile and end strips will significantly extend the durability of the greenhouse.

When choosing, pay attention to the manufacturer. Do not forget that the stingy pays twice, so it is better not to purchase Chinese materials, despite their attractive cost. Among those that have proven themselves well in the market in recent years, we can mention the domestic company Kinplast. This company offers a range of different coatings - from inexpensive to premium options.

Sheets made by the Russian company Aktual will last about 8 years.

This is an inexpensive option, has a fairly soft structure, and is easy to install.

• The Russian-Israeli production Polygal Vostok offers a material that is characterized by rigidity, flexibility, ease of installation, but also has a high price tag.
• "Winpool" is made in China, very soft, fragile, inexpensive, you can count on a service life of 3 years.
• "Sanex" is also a representative of the Chinese market, it is quite tough to work with, is not very convenient during installation, and will last about 4 years.
• “Marlon” is brought to Russia from the UK, the material is quite expensive, but will last for at least 10 years if the operating rules are followed.

Since the market currently has a huge number of options, you can get confused and choose among them not of very high quality.

To prevent this from happening, pay attention to the following points:

• The surface of the sheets must be uniform and smooth, without any protrusions, irregularities or chips. Also, it should not fall apart into layers.
• The ribs should be positioned at a 90 degree angle and should not be wavy in any way.
• Try to find out from the seller under what conditions the material was stored. Improper storage conditions will quickly reduce its service life. The sheets should lie horizontally, but if they were stored in a vertical position with emphasis on the edge or rolled up, this may reduce the quality of the material.
• Some summer residents prefer a mixed type of covering materials. With this option, the side walls are usually glazed and the ceiling is covered with film. Some farmers prefer to cover the frame with spunbond sheets.

Separately, it is worth noting that it is not recommended to grow different types of crops at the same time in the same greenhouse - simply put, the same room is not suitable for seedlings and fruit and berry crops at home. This aspect must be taken into account when choosing the type of greenhouse. Arched greenhouses that occupy a wide area will not bring much benefit. He considers the optimal size of a simple greenhouse to be 3 by 6 meters - it will not take up much space, in such a greenhouse you can easily grow enough strawberries, cucumbers or tomatoes for a family.

Preparation of materials

Before you start work, carefully study the best designs and drawings from publicly available resources - this will allow you to see the most complete picture of the possibilities provided. Of course, you can create a scheme yourself, but remember that this will require not only the investment of additional time and energy resources. In addition, an error may creep in during calculations, which can lead to the greenhouse losing its quality characteristics.

If we present a diagram of the work performed point by point, the general description of the construction stages will look like this:

• determining the required type of construction;
• preparation of the diagram;
• creating a frame;
• carrying out preparatory work on the area of ​​soil where the greenhouse is planned to be installed;
• laying the foundation;
• mounting the supporting frame;
• fastening of a translucent coating.

When designing yourself or choosing among ready-made options, take into account the requirements for the finished structure, as well as the available materials and preferences in the choice of plant crops. Most often, arched structures with a frame made of polyvinyl chloride pipes are located on personal plots - this is an inexpensive type of greenhouse, quite simple to implement. If a flat site is chosen for construction, it is best to choose a model with two slopes. In the case where you plan to install a greenhouse adjacent to the wall, it is more logical to make it lean-to. The base can be a geometric figure of various shapes - a square or rectangle, a trapezoid.

Before purchasing the materials needed for construction, it is necessary to make a calculation. This will help prevent unnecessary expenses in the future.

When the design is completed and the greenhouse manufacturing scheme has been selected, it is necessary to begin preparing the necessary components for future construction.

If we take the simplest option, which can be built in a couple of days, the set of materials will be as follows:

• Boards soaked in antiseptic, treated with drying oil or burned with a blowtorch. Please note that if you want to save money, you don’t have to buy specialized products, but use time-tested, old-fashioned methods of processing wood and timber. If funds allow, of course, you can purchase factory-made chemicals.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes. Before making a frame, calculate the required amount of material for construction. After making the calculation, add 10% in reserve, especially if you have to make a pipe bender.
• Durable polyethylene film - the more wear-resistant the material is, the longer it will not require replacement with a new one. You can also use polycarbonate sheets if desired.

• Metal rods or pieces of reinforcement one meter long.
• Self-tapping screws and nails.
• Hinges for fastening windows and doors.
• Accessories – handles for doors and windows.
• Special loops for fastening pipes.

If you decide to use HDPE pipes to form the frame, consider their following features:

• Pipes help create tightness inside the building, which creates favorable conditions for the ripening of crops.
• This material is easy to use and does not require special skills.
• With the help of fasteners, pipes are easy to install and dismantle if necessary. Thus, the frame can be easily assembled for a warm climate period and removed again when the greenhouse is not in use.
• There is no need to use additional reinforcement. The pipes themselves have good characteristics and are self-sufficient in use.

• Plastic, unlike wood or metal, is much less susceptible to environmental influences. Finished products do not need to be treated with anti-corrosion and other protective substances.
• The building may well last at least a decade.
• Since the material has a low specific gravity, the greenhouse can swing during strong gusts of wind. In this case, it is necessary to install additional metal elements in the ground to strengthen the structure.

Please note that metal corners can be used to strengthen the foundation, they will give the structure strength. This element is attached from the inside at the joint between the boards. If the base is made of timber, it is better to use metal brackets for fastening, which are mounted on the outside. The finished foundation should fit tightly to the soil. If cracks appear, cover them with soil.

Assembly and installation

When installing the frame into a finished foundation, metal reinforcement is driven into the ground from the outside at a distance of no more than a meter. Parts of plastic pipes pre-cut to the required length are placed on these blanks. To fasten them together, as well as to mount them on a wooden base, use screws or nails, self-tapping screws. To install elements horizontally, as a rule, pre-drilled plastic couplings, angles and crosses are used from the inside, allowing pipes to cross the connecting elements.

When polycarbonate sheets are used as a covering material, the actions will be as follows:

• The protective film is removed from the sheets, and the top side is marked with a marker. For convenience in carrying out work, it is better to make several marks on each sheet.
• Make blanks for the end walls - for these purposes, a standard size sheet is cut into three equal parts 2 by 2 meters. One of the parts is applied to the end so that all cavities are located vertically. The left side of the sheet is aligned to the left edge, and the outline of the required arc is outlined with a marker. A similar manipulation is performed with the right edge, as a result of which the sheet takes on the contours of two semi-arches. After which they are cut out using a jigsaw, leaving a tolerance of 3-5 cm, and the right end of the building is cut out in the same way.
• The cut out parts are attached to self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Try not to squeeze the material too much. The excess is cut off with a knife.

• The third part of the sheet is used for the door and windows. The sheet is applied vertically to the doorway. The outline of the door is outlined with a margin, the blanks are cut out and attached. The remainder is used to cover the space above the door. It is better to fasten the joints with special profiles.
• To cover the top of the greenhouse, the sheets are laid on arcs, aligned with the bottom edges and trimmed. The sheets should protrude slightly above the end of the building, then they are fixed in the corners.
• The second sheet is laid overlapping the first at the joint, the corners are secured and placed on screws from the bottom edge at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

If it is decided to cover the greenhouse with plastic film, the stages of work will be as follows:

• The film is attached to the frame with staples or wooden slats. Secure it in such a way that there are no tears in the fabric.
• It is necessary to cover the front and back parts of the frame with film. In the part where the door is planned to be made, the film is folded inward.
• Re-measure the doorway, then you need to assemble the frame from the tubes. A film is attached to the resulting frame, the excess is cut off and the door is hung using hinges, the windows are designed according to the same principle. If you are planning glass doors, carefully study the fastening of glass to metal.
• This greenhouse option is only suitable for summer. The next and final stage after building a greenhouse is preparing the soil and planting seedlings.

As mentioned above, for the winter version of the greenhouse it must be equipped with a heating system. Despite the apparent complexity, it is not so difficult.

Among the types of heating are the following:

• solar;
• technical;
• biological.

Technical, in turn, is divided into the following subtypes:

• water;
• gas;
• stove;
• electric.

The solar type is based on the greenhouse effect, which is formed when natural light enters the greenhouse space. This heating option is used only in summer when the sun is active. In the cold season, to achieve the best result, a mixed type is used - a biological-technological option.

The biological species is used both in winter and summer to heat the soil. The soil is removed from the racks, after which manure is placed on the bottom; horse manure is best suited, since its decomposition releases a large amount of heat. Soil containers are filled one third with manure. In addition to manure, you can also use compost - one of its components is also a waste product of horses. Pour all the soil back into the shelving. As the decomposition process begins, the plant roots will begin to warm up. In addition, it will serve as an excellent fertilizer, since manure and compost contain many minerals for plant growth.

The electric heating method is also easy to use. For these purposes, a heating cable laid in a special way is used. Read the instructions first. Please note that the thermal cable can be purchased along with a temperature regulator, so creating the optimal temperature for the seedlings will be quite simple.

Water heating is arranged as follows: the entire perimeter of the greenhouse is laid with a double row of pipes, which are looped into an electric boiler. To connect the boiler, you need to lay an electrical cable. Please note that the boiler can be located inside the greenhouse or can be taken outside of it. Experts insist that the boiler must be taken outside and pre-insulated. These manipulations are done with the aim of more uniform heating. You can also warm up the room using a heat generator. The boiler itself can be purchased in a store or you can make it yourself, but keep in mind that in the second case you cannot do without special knowledge and skills. Further, the procedure is similar - pipes are laid from the boiler under the racks, which are looped. Any solid fuel can be used as fuel: coal, firewood, wood waste.

If there is gasification on your garden plot, heating can be arranged using gas burners or air heaters; for this purpose they need to be placed around the entire perimeter of the building. With a small greenhouse area, it is quite possible to use gas cylinders. If the greenhouse occupies a large area, then it is necessary to connect it to the general gas system of the house. Gas burners create carbon dioxide, which plants need. To ensure that heat is distributed evenly, fans are installed in the building. The burners can also be replaced with a gas factory boiler, but be sure to look at its country of origin.

As a heat source for electric heating of a room, aluminum radiators or electric convectors are used, which are installed at an equal distance along the entire perimeter of the building or located on both sides if the greenhouse area is rectangular in shape. This type of system is connected directly to the power supply or heat supply system.

You can also make a stove in the greenhouse, which is best located at the end of the building. A horizontal chimney is laid from the stove along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse. Metal pipes or brickwork are suitable for these purposes. When connecting the chimney and the vertical riser of the stove, you need to make a slight rise at the junction. The higher the riser, the better, because the stove will have good draft. With this type of heating, do not forget to prepare fuel in advance. You can place the stove in a pre-made depression in the ground.

In addition, you can make a water oven from a regular oven. For this purpose, a water heating boiler is installed on it, from which pipes will go to a water tank. The pipes and the boiler are looped using wiring around the entire perimeter of the room. There is also another option - to collect pipes along each of the racks, thereby providing distribution to four different pipes.

We must not forget that plants require the creation of a special microclimate for their successful development and growth; special equipment will help improve these indicators inside the greenhouse, with the help of which you can increase the productivity and yield of grown crops. Additional equipment involves not only additional heating, but also the possibility of ventilation, watering and lighting. As you know, watering plants is a rather labor-intensive process. An automatic system will help relieve the owner of a summer cottage from this hard work, while saving time and water.

Good ventilation of the room is extremely important in a greenhouse, as it prevents condensation and improves the overall microclimate, which undoubtedly benefits the plants. Properly created air exchange will protect crops from overheating. For natural air movement, it is enough to open doors and vents; an additionally installed fan or hood will increase air circulation.

With short daylight hours, you can’t do without sources of additional lighting. Special lamps will help seedlings get enough light in early spring or late autumn.

Best projects

Be sure to check out the best and most common options, and perhaps you’ll come up with your own ideas.

For cucumbers

Separately, I would like to consider making a greenhouse for cucumbers as one of the most favorite vegetables. Any summer resident knows that cucumbers need warmth and high humidity. With proper organization of protected soil, this vegetable is less susceptible to diseases and can produce a larger harvest.

To obtain a rich harvest, the following requirements are necessary:

• daytime air temperature – no more than 30 degrees, night – no less than 16;
• soil temperature - about 23 degrees;
• calm air without drafts;
• humidity about 80%;
• high degree of illumination;
• insect access if the variety involves bee pollination;
• durable structures for vertical movement of seedlings.

Due to the large number of parts, it is difficult to create the required climate in one room. Let's consider the general disadvantages and advantages of each type of greenhouse for a specific purpose - growing cucumbers.

The advantages include simplicity of design, ease of creation from scrap and existing materials. The small area and internal volume will provide good heating; it is well lit and easily accessible to insects for pollination. Among the disadvantages, one can note such characteristics as low planting density - you can place a maximum of three pieces per square meter, inconvenience when cultivating the soil and harvesting. If you water plants with a watering can, the water reaches the leaves, which can cause burns. The greenhouse needs to be constantly opened and closed, otherwise the crops will overheat and die.

Arch type with film

The advantages of this type of greenhouse are that it is easy to construct and does not require expensive materials; it has sufficient internal space for growing vertical bushes. The film coating retains moisture well, promotes rapid heating of the soil and air, and transmits light well. Disadvantages: the film is a short-lived material and requires regular replacement; it has poor thermal insulation properties, so in the event of early frosts, the greenhouse will have to be covered additionally. When building a greenhouse of this type, it is necessary to have vents, since drafts will inevitably arise when the doors are opened.

Polycarbonate covered

Pros: high structural strength of the frame, high ceilings and sufficient interior space. Polycarbonate perfectly transmits sunlight and has an excellent ability to diffuse it. Provides convenient conditions for watering plants and cultivating the soil, making it easy to harvest. The provided vent openings provide good ventilation and absence of drafts.

Disadvantages: large financial costs for purchasing materials or finished products. Polycarbonate strongly reflects light, causing energy loss. The covering and frame require constant maintenance; in winter, snow must be cleared from the greenhouse. Difficult access for pollinating insects.

Gable with glazed wooden frames

The advantages are as follows: a noteworthy design, which has already become a classic, demonstrates high thermal insulation properties. Good heating of the entire interior space of the room. Glass has excellent light transmittance; when placing vents on the roof, the possibility of drafts is eliminated. The ability to plant a large number of plants, having convenient access to them. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the heaviness of the frame requires preliminary laying of the foundation. Wood requires mandatory preliminary and regular subsequent treatment, otherwise the frames will quickly begin to rot. It is also worth considering that glass is a fragile and traumatic material, and also does not have any scattering properties, which can lead to burns to plant leaves.

With one slope

Positive characteristics: it is always attached to a house or barn on the north side, which ensures that the slope faces south to receive the maximum amount of sun rays. The room assumes rapid warming up and long-term heat retention, and also gives scope when choosing materials for construction. Negative characteristics: if the sun is active, it will be difficult to avoid overheating; curtains and a high-quality ventilation system are needed. If a greenhouse is built next to a house, a prerequisite is good waterproofing and protection of the greenhouse from snow and ice.

Mittleider

An undoubted advantage is the special location of the vents - they are located in the roof and face south, which leaves no possibility of drafts and helps maintain an optimal microclimate. The greenhouse is large, has high ceilings and a lot of space inside.

The disadvantages are related to the complexity of the design and the inability to build it yourself without accurate drawings and installation skills. If the doors are closed, insects will not be able to get inside; either self-pollinating varieties are suitable for such a greenhouse, or additional bait varieties will have to be planted. Among other things, a greenhouse requires close care.

Pyramid shaped

Pros: The central part is ideal for growing cucumbers vertically. Excellent lighting, easy to install, only budget materials are needed.

Cons: small area, inconvenient to care for plants. Insect access is difficult. The structure is unstable and can easily be blown away by the wind.

For tomatoes

Polycarbonate greenhouses create ideal conditions for the harmonious ripening of fruits. Tomato is a crop that loves sunlight and warmth; the optimal temperature for growing them is 22-25 degrees. If the soil has a high clay content, then humus, sawdust or peat must be added to the soil at the rate of one bucket per square meter.

Planted seedlings must be watered frequently until they are fully developed. If the nights are quite cool, it is better not to water the plants after sunset so as not to overcool the soil. It makes sense to water from a watering can during the hottest time of the season. Next, the seedlings need to be pruned and tied, thereby ensuring uniform lighting and ventilation of the beds. With this growing option, tomatoes ripen much faster and it is possible to reap a good harvest. The plants are then secured to wire trellises or stakes, giving them space to grow further.

For greenery

During the cold winter months, there is nothing better than a bunch of fresh herbs, especially if you grow them yourself. What’s especially nice is that greenhouse greens are not too demanding to care for and produce several harvests a year. You can choose the type of greenery based on your own preferences.

Most people who use winter greenhouses to grow greens prefer dill, celery and parsley.

• When growing dill, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature regime - the thermometer should not fall below 15 degrees. In addition, dill needs constant spraying and does not tolerate drafts and cold winds, so be extremely careful when ventilating the greenhouse. The first harvest can be obtained in just two months with proper care.
• When growing parsley, there are several more nuances - firstly, this type of plant can be grown in the form of roots or seeds. In the first option, the root crop must first be kept in sand, the temperature of which does not exceed two degrees, after which it is planted in heavily moistened soil. If you plan to grow parsley from seeds, the seeds, previously kept in a damp cloth, are planted in the soil. As a rule, germination takes no more than ten days. The harvest is about one and a half kilograms of greenery per square meter.

• Celery loves well-fertilized, soft soil; cow or chicken manure is perfect as a fertilizer. The temperature in the greenhouse should be between 15 and 20 degrees. Watering for plants is necessary infrequently, but as abundantly as possible, and care must be taken that the water does not touch the leaves of the seedlings. Pay special attention to lighting, since the amount of harvest directly depends on the length of daylight hours.
• Many people love mint and enjoy using it in cooking. This type of plant tolerates frosts down to eight degrees below zero, while sprouting at the lowest temperatures above zero. Experts recommend using hydroponics or biological heating of the soil with peat as soil. Carefully monitor the soil moisture; drying it out is strictly unacceptable. If you plan to grow mint, it is best to equip the greenhouse with a drip irrigation system.
• Mint, like most crops, does not tolerate temperature changes, not only because sudden changes can destroy the plants, such moments can lead to a dangerous disease - powdery mildew. Also extremely dangerous pests for mint are spider mites and greenhouse whiteflies. You can defeat them by spraying the crop with industrial means or time-tested folk recipes.

For better rooting of seeds in the soil, you must first dry them in a draft. If you cannot plant the seeds directly, it is quite possible to grow seedlings at home and then plant them in the ground for 10-14 days.

Not all summer residents have the time and desire to understand the intricacies of the technology for constructing a greenhouse on a site with their own hands. At the moment, the market is filled with ready-made greenhouses of a wide variety of options. The first thing you need to do is decide for what purpose the greenhouse is being purchased. If we are talking about growing crops for family consumption, this is one thing, but if a summer resident considers a greenhouse as a way to increase his income and wants to put the resulting crop up for sale, the situation will be different. In the first case, you can get by with an inexpensive option, in the second, of course, the financial investment will be much higher and the cost of maintaining the greenhouse will also increase.